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Thread: Lyman 450 lubesizer questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    104

    Lyman 450 lubesizer questions

    Also if y'all have any tips....

    Just snagged a Lyman 450 - it was in pieces but manged to get her together ok. Bought some orange magic lube and a auto block heater to get the lube to flow.
    Two questions:
    1 - after a while of sitting after lubing some boolits it started to drool spaghetti from under the nut holding the sizing die down. I backed off the pressure screw and it stopped but I was wondering how it managed to squeeze out there to begin with...
    2- How do y'all set the depth? Also - are there any tricks to setting it easier after the first time when changing dies?
    I had to slowly press my boolit in until both grooves were filled and then set the stop. It occurred to me this would be a PITA each time I swapped dies and I'm trying to figure how to "mark" the settings. I'll be loading 4 calibers and have 5 different boolits in .44 cal.

    Thanks!
    Jon

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Southeast, NC (Coastal plains)
    Posts
    2,123
    After getting the setting right on a boolit die depth , take a measurement to the I die or the nose of the boolit .
    It may be easier to measure the length of the stop bolt setting.



    Make sure to take good notes of where ya measured from !!

    I used OM also & it`s a hard lube, but decent . I ran it at 110f for consistent application to the boolit , cooler it would`nt stik as good & warmer made a big mess !
    & anytime ya stop ya gotta back off the pressure so it does`nt "migrate"
    If ya use heat on the lube you`ll find that a softer touch on the pressure screw is needed.

    I`ve settled on 3 lubes White Labels Carnauba Red , Randy Rat`s TAC1 & a 50/50 alox beeswax , oh forgot Recluses 45/45/10 tumble lube on wadcutters.

    Good luck & enjoy , also a pic of my "heater"

    GP100man

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    104
    Thanks! I happened to find an old engineering ruler with a depth slider on it that happens to fit pretty good in there. So I'll make me up a table.
    I'll have to give a couple of those lubes a try. I do use the 45/45/10 tumble lube - 'cept I dip my boolits - 300 gn Ranch Dog.
    For some reason I never considered that I could drop in the lube I normally use - Wind's Wonder Wax which is a concoction by one of the fellers on MarlinOwners. Roughly 40% beeswax, 50% Crisco and 10% Vaseline by weight. Works pretty durn good - smells like biscuits when you shoot. It's a nice soft lube that wouldn't require much (if any) heating.

    PS: Crazy thing - I had to move the lock nut up top to get enough range to stop for my 9mm boolits.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    772
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaJon View Post
    PS: Crazy thing - I had to move the lock nut up top to get enough range to stop for my 9mm boolits.
    This is very common. Many of us need to do it for the short boolits.
    Some times it's the pot,
    Some times it's the pan,
    It might even be the skillet,
    But, most of the time, it's the cook.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check