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Thread: Sprue plate lube

  1. #21
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Dimethylpolysiloxane oil. Stands the heat, doesn't migrate, and stays clear. Bullplate works well, too.

    Gear
    Damn-Ethyl-Prolly-still-likes-an-Oil, but I prefer Guiness! or three to lube me up.

    I bought two bottles of the round bottom ones for my moulds

  2. #22
    Boolit Master ColColt's Avatar
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    Dimethylpolysiloxane-Sounds like an ingredient in the meds I take for cholesterol problems.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColColt View Post
    Dimethylpolysiloxane-Sounds like an ingredient in the meds I take for cholesterol problems.
    hehe . . . It is, oils the ole tubes right up.

    Rick
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  4. #24
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    I use 75W140 full synthetic oil, I had 1/2 a bottle left after changing out the seals and refilling the oil in the rear differential of my F150.....stuff works great it is like $20 for 32oz, but I had it left over.
    Doug
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master




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    I'm real partial to the little Bullplate bottles that come with NOE molds. Put the red plastic cap on and you can kick the bottle all over the place. No spills!!! Mike
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  6. #26
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    Dimethylpolysiloxane oil.
    I just HAD to google it to find out what it was. Found out it is an ingredient in McNugetts and Silly Putty.

    I prefer Bullplate. I spilled half of my first bottle the very first time I used it. Now I use one of the little bottles supplied with NOE molds and refill as needed from what is left from the spilled bottle.

    Jamesconn, save your change for a while and get a couple of bottles. I think it is $11.50 for two bottles shipping included. You might PM Bullshop to be sure. They are good people. Just mail the money order and they will mail the lube back to you.
    http://bullshop.gunloads.com/tbs_lube.htm
    Last edited by SciFiJim; 05-18-2011 at 11:52 PM.


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  7. #27
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    Jim, you might as well just squeeze out a ribbon of tune-up grease and eat it if you have a Mcflurry with your nuggets, many milkshakes are thickened with fumed silica, so you get that and your silicone oil all at once! Now I'm getting hungry...........

    Gear

  8. #28
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    +1 on the 2 cycle motor oil, I ran out of the other stuff once and remembered someone sugesting using the 2 cycle oil, I tried it and never went back, it works just as well or better than the other, not to mention the price difference.............................steg

  9. #29
    Boolit Master ColColt's Avatar
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    Speaking of Bull Plate, I have a couple bottles and wondered if it's necessary to lube the spruce plate/top of mold each time you use that mold or is a one time application sufficient? It seems to still show after several casting sessions for me but was just curious.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy Rockydog's Avatar
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    Bullplate is the only way to fly and while you are at it pick up a couple of containers of his case sizing lube as well. His lube products really do what he says they will. RD
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  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy That'll Do's Avatar
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    Bullplate is the ticket. I have enough little bottles from the NOE group buy molds to last a lifetime.

    On a related note, does anyone notice a difference between Bullplate, and the sprue plate lube that Miha packages with his molds?
    "Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." – Benjamin Franklin

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ in WY View Post
    Wonder what the samall bottle is that comes with the Mihec molds ///Anybody have an idea ????
    I was wondering the same.
    scrap, smelt, cast, lube, load, shoot. repeat.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    I was under the impression that the lube sample WAS Bullplate, am I wrong?
    - MikeS

    Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
    http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobS View Post
    Bullplate is the best thing I've used as well however if you are waiting then a high end synthetic 2 stroke oil is a good option. With either apply very, very little as too much can/will migrate into the cavities. It's better to use too less and have to had more than it is to use too much and have to stop to wash your mold out.
    That's funny that you mention this because I thought Bull Plate smelled a lot like the synthetic two stroke oil I by from Polaris for my quads.. Glad I'm not the only one.....
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


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  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ in WY View Post
    Wonder what the samall bottle is that comes with the Mihec molds ///Anybody have an idea ????
    Quote Originally Posted by That'll Do View Post
    On a related note, does anyone notice a difference between Bullplate, and the sprue plate lube that Miha packages with his molds?
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeS View Post
    I was under the impression that the lube sample WAS Bullplate, am I wrong?
    I remember reading a post by Miha answering this very question. He said the bottles he sends with his moulds are NOT BullPlate. They are his own recipe for sprue plate lube. That being said, I have both and they sure look, feel and smell the same. I think they are the same, it's just that Miha isn't getting it from Bullshop and then repackaging it. He just found the same solution for the problem.
    Matt

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  16. #36
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by ColColt View Post
    Speaking of Bull Plate, I have a couple bottles and wondered if it's necessary to lube the spruce plate/top of mold each time you use that mold or is a one time application sufficient? It seems to still show after several casting sessions for me but was just curious.
    I give the mould a wipe every session.
    The following is from a post by Bullshop:
    Since it takes so little I treat at the beginning of each session. After an hour or so if I feel any drag at all I just give a quick wipe before I drop the boolits and keep on going. I found a new mold needed to be treated 2 to 3 times in the first session but after the break in once at the beginning was good.
    Matt

    44 Special Articles

    With regards to gun control in this country, everyone should be asking themselves one question:
    What is it that this government feels they need to do, but can't do, unless the citizens of this nation are first disarmed?
    (I seriously doubt you can come up with any plausible answers that you will like...)

    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  17. #37
    bhn22
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    LBT mould lube is simply described as "colloidal graphite", on his web site. I've had great success with it.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Exclamation

    colloidal graphite

    Sounds like Preparation H or some suppository.

    So, does anyone know what colloidal graphite is in a form that
    mere mortals can find readily ?

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by milprileb View Post
    colloidal graphite

    Sounds like Preparation H or some suppository.

    So, does anyone know what colloidal graphite is in a form that
    mere mortals can find readily ?

    It's graphite suspended in a bunch of stuff.

    (kə′löid·əl ′gra′fīt)

    (materials) Extremely fine flakes of graphite suspended in water, petroleum oil, castor oil, glycerin, or other liquids; used to provide conductive shields on the inside or outside surfaces of electron tubes.

    Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/colloid...#ixzz1OWKmz3Lj

  20. #40
    Boolit Master

    Moonie's Avatar
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    Sounds like mold release agent to me...

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