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Thread: Automating a Master Caster

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Automating a Master Caster

    I'm sure many have seen the YT video of the MC with the German auto drive. I'm on a quest to do something similar, but for far less money.

    My initial idea involves some adjustable repeat cycle timers, a solenoid to pour lead and pneumatic cylinder for the arm. Ultimate casting speed is not a design requirement. I'm OK with slow and steady so a Saturday in the yard can result in a couple thousand bullets with hardly any effort on my part.

    Hopefully this thread can become the R&D resource center for automatic Master Casters.

    How would you automate a MC if you were to do it?

    Chuck

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy BossHoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RydForLyf View Post
    I'm sure many have seen the YT video of the MC with the German auto drive. I'm on a quest to do something similar, but for far less money.

    My initial idea involves some adjustable repeat cycle timers, a solenoid to pour lead and pneumatic cylinder for the arm. Ultimate casting speed is not a design requirement. I'm OK with slow and steady so a Saturday in the yard can result in a couple thousand bullets with hardly any effort on my part.

    Hopefully this thread can become the R&D resource center for automatic Master Casters.

    How would you automate a MC if you were to do it?

    Chuck


    Great idea, I have thought of the same.

    Hydraulics vs electric actuators....that is my big hangup

    The Pid, the pour mech, freeze time, shake and strike....are just details. The actuators is where I freeze up in my drawings.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BossHoss View Post
    Great idea, I have thought of the same.

    Hydraulics vs electric actuators....that is my big hangup

    The Pid, the pour mech, freeze time, shake and strike....are just details. The actuators is where I freeze up in my drawings.
    Pneumatics are cheap(er), clean and easy to work with which is why that's the direction I'd like to go. I'd also like to make it so that the pot can still be run manually without having to disconnect anything, or at least very few items.

    Chuck

  4. #4
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    That wheel has already been invented. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=89909&page=2
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_1 View Post
    That wheel has already been invented. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=89909&page=2
    Robert,

    I remember seeing your machine before and it is definitely a great rig. Without access to a machine shop, I don't have the resources you do.

    I may well fall into the tried but didn't succeed category that Magma speaks of, but that's half the fun.

    Thanks for the reminder of your machine.

    Chuck

  6. #6
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    The only thing that you need a machine shop for is the lever. The cylinder mounting bracket is just some steel welded together. The timers are just that.... timers. This is nothing you cannot do if you set your mind to it.
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_1 View Post
    The only thing that you need a machine shop for is the lever. The cylinder mounting bracket is just some steel welded together. The timers are just that.... timers. This is nothing you cannot do if you set your mind to it.
    One of my design "requirements" I've imposed on myself is that the machine will still be able to be used manually with a minimum of switch-over time required.

    In order to accomplish this, I'm looking to connect the main drive actuator into the mold carrier support (MC120) and leave the handle as is. This way, switch-over can be as simple as removing a hitch pin to disconnect the actuator from the machine and the caster will operate normally.

    My plan is to start slow and automate one function at a time.

    First is a timed fill then a tilt to the cooling position and then finally implement the strike/dump stroke. One actuator for each action will allow me to incrementally build it out and use it in the meantime as the different actions are added progressively.

    We'll see how this goes. Hopefully I'll be able to post a picture of Hannibal Smith when I'm all done.

    Chuck

  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    Chuck,
    I would suggest following Robert's lead and ordering as much as you can from a catalog to save time and headache. Find a local machine shop to fabricate a couple small items to link everything you need together. I have even heard of Lathesmith a forum member making a linkage part for another member so he could automate his star sizer. Don't be afraid of custom parts, they are probably a necessity on a project such as this one.
    -Wildcat

  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    Automated Master Casters

    Just a heads up to anyone who doesn't want to search here are the two Automated Master Casters that have been mentioned in this thread.

    Robert's Hydraulic

    WiederladerTV's Electric

    Now I am very interested in this, just thinking out loud. Push/Pull solenoids are relatively cheap and easy to control. I like the tappers on the Youtube video. Robert did you ever find a need for anything like these on yours? I would give the nod to Robert's design for the lead flow. The solenoid should be cheaper than a window motor which is what it appears the Youtube video uses.

    Possibly a set of switches in series. First switch is a position switch that tells the controller the mold is in position, the second switch would be a timer based switch that turns the lead on for x number of seconds. It really gets down to the details, if you have a lot of electronic knowledge you would build it completely different than if you were going to make it as simple as possible. With the two switch system you could never have lead spill out when there is no mold present. Just some thing else to think about.
    -Wildcat

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Wildcat,

    All good advice and info. I like your idea of triggering the cycle with the mold in "HOME" position.

    Chuck

  11. #11
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    "Tappers" are a modification that I would like to do but have yet to find any. If you know of a source please share.

    I have run my rig at 800 bullets per hour (4.5 second cycles) but find unles the conditions are just right things become a mess fast.

    I have also added a "dead man" switch to the lead pour which prevents it from pouring unless the mould is under the spout. With the timer system some times (not often) things get out of time, the switch keeps the lead were it needs to be.
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy

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    Hey no_1,

    What kind of switch did you use for your dead man switch?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check