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Thread: Cleaning ------- ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Cleaning ------- ?

    I am sure this must have been beat to death somewhere, anyone know where?

    I am looking for information on cleaning requirements for cast boolet shooting and the retention of good groups in my rifle.

    Not looking for information here about "daddy made me clean it everytime it was used," or the Drill instructor said do it or KP, etc.

    Have any folks out there done tests with recorded results as per the requitements.

    I see some posts that the cast boolit rifle must be cleaned frequently, while Veral Smith of LBT says if you are using his boolit lube there is no need to repeatedly clean.

    Working my way through load development for my #1s -- 45/70, and don't mind cleaning as needed but would rather not be swabbing the barrel after every 5, 10, 15 or 20 shots, unless I can see facts which indicate such a need.

    I know, I know, your rifle is different then mine, but I am seeking guide lines as to real needs, not "I clean it every time I shoot it just because --------".

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  2. #2
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    I do a deep cleaning only when I plan on storing for a long time or when I want to get a really good look at the bore, or if it got lead fouled somehow. The rest of the time the "shooters" don't get messed with, and I know if I step out the door and fire just exactly where the first shot will hit.

    You're using smokeless powder, and from what I know, Idaho is a fairly dry state, so I would say if the thing isn't getting lead deposits in it, just leave it alone after shooting. Lots of people have good luck just leaving the bore dirty during storage, just patching out with a dry, loose patch to push out any errant powder kernels and letting it be. Watch out for rust, however, it CAN happen, as one of our members just experienced. If you clean your bore with solvent, then add a rust inhibitor, you get to patch that out before shooting and deal with a high or low first couple of shots to get the bore enviroment back to normal.

    FWIW,

    Gear

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Based on 50 years or so of cast bullet shooting, if I'm trying to shoot tight groups, I clean after 3 foulers and ten for group. If I'm working on my hunting rifle, I clean after I'm done for the day. The bullet lube is usually something that's rust preventative, so it won't hurt your barrel if you don't clean 'til you use it next, but I like to do it this way.
    Grouch

  4. #4
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    I usually go thru a 100 rounds or so in the rifles when I go over to the range. Then I just clean 'em with Hoppe's 9. Same as I would if I was shooting "J" bullets. I don't have any leading problems luckily. Some guys use that copper Chore Boy when they do get leading.
    Qajaq59

    One slow hit is better then 500 quick misses. "It ain't the noise that kills 'em!!!!"

  5. #5
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    Treat them like a .22. Don't clean the bore, unless accuracy starts to fall off.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

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  6. #6
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    Let the rifle tell you what it wants. If I am shooting a heavier load that leads a little I might run a brush when I get done. If it is a load that doesn't lead or it is something I only use for plinking I clean when I get bored.
    I might clean my 1894 32-20 every 3-500 round or when cases start to stick in the chamber due to a build up of crud. My 45-70 with hunting loads and plain base bullets might ge a brush after eqch day at the range.
    In the end- there is no one answer. Let the rifle/ handgun tell you what it wants. Then follow what you feel works for you. In the end it is your requirements that matter.

    Brad

  7. #7
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    Talking

    I have shot over 500 rounds through my 308 Win with out cleaning and have still maintained match accuracy. The last time I cleaned it was because my brother in law opened the bolt and de-bulleted the round spilling powder in the action. I will take a old tooth brush to the bolt face and re-apply lube to the locking lugs and cocking cam on the bolt and wipe the gun down.

  8. #8
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    I think the correct answer is: it depends.

    As long as it isn't leading, I wipe the outside down with an oily rag, and will clean the mecanism as necessary.

    Robert

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    Let the rifle tell you what it wants.
    Brad
    That's the philosophy that I practice, even with j-word bullets. Some bores foul faster than others; some guns shoot better when they're dirty, some clean.
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  10. #10
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    well.
    so far in the one rifle that i have been waiting to need to clean it hasn't happened yet.
    this is with three different lubes and three different loads.
    one a commercial [yeah a commercial for shipping not lubing lube]
    the rifle does like a fouler shot that is almost a full inch high at 100 yds.
    and it does have a slight pressure spot that moves the point of impact almost 3"'s right [ at 300 yds] when the Bbl is really hot.
    next trial is a "wet" Bbl before the cold shot.
    i have a 45 colt lever gun that hasn't had a patch down the Bbl in over 15 years.
    and i have to dry patch my 44 levergun using carnuba red about every 100 shots or so,or it develops a smear build-up of lube about half way down the Bbl.
    it does it with with three different loads.
    this gun may also benefit from a wipe with a wet patch before and after shooting.
    thinking something along the lines of castor oil,lanolin and tranny fluid for the wipe.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Ekalb2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    I think the correct answer is: it depends.

    As long as it isn't leading, I wipe the outside down with an oily rag, and will clean the mecanism as necessary.

    Robert
    Exactly.
    Why clean something that is not dirty?
    Inspect the bore, and take the necessary actions based on what you see.
    Well, It works for me.

  12. #12
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    I clean revolvers every time when I get home to keep the carbon at bay and a speck or two of glitter.
    Rifles and singleshots get it at 80 to 100 rds. Even a good CB load can pick up micro lead wires at the lands after that long. And its just a good idea to see whats going on in the bbl (rust wise) anyway.
    NRA LIFER .. "THE CAST BULLET HANDLOADER IS THE ONLY ONE THAT REALLY MAKES ANY OF HIS AMMUNITION. OTHERS MEARLY ASSEMBLE IT". -E.H. HARRISON

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks folks!

    This info is about my take on it, but after years of casting MOSTLY handgun boolets, and now trying for huntable groups in my 45/70 out to, I hope, a couple hundred yards, I was just wondering if there was something I was missing as per consistant grouping.

    Looks like I will continue down the same path I have followed for years.

    As per hunting, that means never hunt with an unfouled barrel.

    Lubed/sized some more boolits this evening, so have two batches of boolits to test early next week.

    Same everything except the lube.

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  14. #14
    Boolit Master XWrench3's Avatar
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    part of it is going to be how fast your boolits are coming out of the end of the tube. if they are coming out SCREAMING, you are going to have to clean a LOT more often. if they are coming out close to pistol speed, you can go a long way before you HAVE to clean. the smoothness / roughness of the barrel is another factor that will dictate how often you must clean. personally, i clean after every session anyway. i just do not like leaving gunk in the barrels. i do it on EVERYTHING, even the 22 rimfires AND even if i have only shot one magazine's worth of ammo through it. honestly, by keeping the velocity down around 1300-1400 fps in my 45/70, i can shoot 50 rounds just fine without stopping and cleaning. i dont know if that is exceptional or not. but that is usually about all i shoot in one session. of course, i take other rifles / handguns with me also, and the barrels never reach scorching. when one gets hot, i switch to another. i dont know if it has anything to do with it as well, but my home made boolit lube contains STP as well, i think it seems to help.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks Xwrench3,

    It appears that my barrel is as smooth as the proverbable "babies butt", however, I am pushing the 350gr LBT boolets out the end at 2150 - 2200fps.

    I know there is no hard and fast rule to my question, but as indicated, being new to this rifle/cast boolet thing and trying to iron out some flier issues, I am trying to cover the bases.

    As per cleaning .22RF barrels, you should check out Rimfire Central for much coverage that issue.

    Keep em coming!

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Cleaning 101 is taught by Professor Target.
    Reading can provide limited education because only shooting provides YOUR answers as you tie everything together for THAT gun. The better the gun, the less you have to know / do & the more flexibility you have to achieve success.

  17. #17
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    I have probably shot 500 cast rounds through my Marlin 45/70 and have yet to clean it. I use a borescope and look down the barrel frequently and it looks like new in there. Amazing!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check