After 18 month of searching I FINALLY found a reamer so I can complete my B&D project.
Should I use regular LP primers or would magnum primers be better?
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After 18 month of searching I FINALLY found a reamer so I can complete my B&D project.
Should I use regular LP primers or would magnum primers be better?
The artist formerly known as Wiking
I would say that neck tension for you is going to be the defining issue. There just isn't much on that case design.
Will your dies produce it? Does your brass hold it. If so, then standard primers will take you farther down the burn rate chain than you might believe.
Proof of the taste is ALWAYS in the pudding.
Reading can provide limited education because only shooting provides YOUR answers as you tie everything together for THAT gun. The better the gun, the less you have to know / do & the more flexibility you have to achieve success.
Say it easy Bass!
Mag primers are way too much.
Your powder choice will dictate primer choice. It all depends on the load.
It depends more on case size, not the powder.Originally Posted by anachronism
A friend of mine built such a gun in the very early 70's while I was working in a gun store. Forming up the brass was the big job as that is necking a 44 mag down to a 38 bullet . I think that it would be the same as any other cartridge and that is match the powder to what primer is needed. I like using the current Winchester LP as it will work in any of the powders used.
Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet
The reason this was my first wildcat was that it is so easy to form. Lube, run it through the die, done.
Looking at my notes, I used either LP or Magnum LP based either on the powder or data I obtained somewhere.
Most people would sooner die than think, in fact, they do so. -B. Russell
The loads will be full house - and then some
To be honest the gun is to serve one purpose only: To give me as much recoil and muzzle blast as possible!! Danish law prohibits me from owning anything larger than caliber .38, and when you're a sucker for big guns and big bang, the Bain & Davis is about as good as it gets.
So, Magnum primers it is. I recon the loads will be somewhere between 20 and 25gr depending on bullet weight. So a LP magnum must suffice, right?
The artist formerly known as Wiking
I would start with regular primers. The pressure will rise much quicker in the 38 bore than for a 44 bore and should completely eliminate the need for a longer spark. ... felix
felix
a regular primer will fill that case full of spark.
components are probably not easy to come by where you are.
if you can get winchesters i'd just stick with them. if it's federal,cci,wolf,norma,thats fine too, use what you can get and have cross over for other cartridges.
Okay, I will stick will the large pistol primers.
Getting primers and powder is not a problem in Denmark.
Now ask me how difficult it is to get a hold of a .357/44B&D reamer!? It took me a year and a half to find one! Claymore, Brownells and 2 or 3 reamer-rental firms all turned me down! I found one in Germany for the subtle price of 400 dollars! I now fear the cost of the conversion.
The artist formerly known as Wiking
Oh, wow!
Bain & Davis here in San Gabriel , California is my gunsmith !
All you need to do is send them your cylinder and they ream it. I think the cost is about $80.00.
I have seen a number of S&W Model 28s converted.
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
I had one. Ton's of fun. Light jacketed bullets make modern art out of the driest jackrabbit. The extra velocity is noticeable, but the blast is severe. Lot's of questionable data out there. The case is really best for bullets under 158 grains in the S&W.Bain & Davis here in San Gabriel , California is my gunsmith !
All you need to do is send them your cylinder and they ream it. I think the cost is about $80.00.
I have seen a number of S&W Model 28s converted.
Jerry
Could you please elaborate on the questionable data? I'll start reloading soon....
I plan on using 125gr, 158gr and 180gr boolits.
The artist formerly known as Wiking
Gunslinger:
What gun are you converting? If it is a S&W, just find an extra cylinder here in the U.S., have Bain & Davis ream it, and mail the converted cylinder to you in Denmark.
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
It's a Ruger Black Hawk. I have an additional 9mm cylinder for which I have no use, so I thought that would be ideal to use, mainly because it is a large frame revolver....
The artist formerly known as Wiking
Just happened to be in the Bain & Davis gunshop today and Peter (the owner) had two cylinders for N-frame S&Ws sitting on the mill for the conversion ! It still seems to be a popular modification !
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
My copy of the Accurate Smokeless Powder reloading manual Number One has load data for the Bain and Davis. It only lists the CCI 300 primer for load data.
In order to have a companion to a B&D revolver I was considering the B&D for a model 92 Rossi lever gun by putting a B&D chambered 0.358 barrel in a model 92 Rossi .44 Mag.
rl807
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There is no such thing as too many tools, especially when it comes to casting and reloading.
Howard Hughes said: "He who has the tools rules".
Safe casting and shooting!
Linstrum, member F.O.B.C. (Fraternal Order of Boolit Casters), Shooters.com alumnus, and original alloutdoors.com survivor.
I had Bain&Davis do this one up back in the early 90's. A good roll crimp is a must to prevent the bullet from coming loose.
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