why do you whack on your mould?

[hammerhead357]

Plus one for the whacker. I use a several 8 or 10 cavity H & G moulds. I have never tried to cut the sprue by hand and don't think I will try.
I use a synthetic hammer. I have seen some like mine at Tandy Leather stores. I have used the same one for over 20 years and several of those years were when I was casting commercially. It gets a little beaten up and I will take a file to it to knock of the rough spots. It is stll very usable.
Even when using Lee six cavity moulds I keep it handy to tap out sticky boolits.
Yes I care very much about my moulds so I treat them gently. You really can't replace the 8 and 10 cavity H & G moulds anymore....Wes

[mtgrs737]

I use a rawhide hammer to whack the spru plate and tap the hinge pin with, best I have ever used.

[fredj338]

Only on the Lyman 4 cavity molds, any make of 2 can I can open by hand and prefer to.

The Lee 6 bangers have that cool cam plate so no need there.

Back in the day I had a friend with a pair of 10 Cav H&G 68 molds for that you needed a whacker and I used a non marring hammer for that.

Same here.

[sagamore-one]

I use a one pound lead headed hammer to both cut sprues and to tap boolits free. Hensley & Gibbs provided me with this hammer mould when I purchased my first 6 cavity # 68 back in 1980.
Anyone who has ever bought a used H&G from me can verify that the moulds were not damaged in any way even after years , many years of repeated hammering with the leadhead.

[RICKLANDES]

I've been watching a few videos, and reading threads where people mention "whacking" their sprue plate mould with a stick. either to cut the sprue or drop the boolit.

why do you do this?

Because I don't have a porcupine.

[theperfessor]

I use a hardwood hammer handle to "whack" my sprue plates. As stated by several other posters, some medical problems with my hands prevent me from opening most molds by hand, Lee 6 cavs excepted.

I NEVER whack the mold itself, just the hinge pin on the handles. Sticking molds get deburred, sometimes polished when necessary, so hard whacks are not necessary.

[casterofboolits]

I'm a whacker too as I normally run three Lyman four cavity molds in series. Ya ain't opening that first mold when ya get back to it!
At times I run three H&G eight cavity 45 molds in series. Ain't gonna open them by hand either. And I wear gloves at all times. Lead gets kinda hot.

[ghh3rd]

I was opening the sprue plate recently with gloved hands. Found out that my gloves wore out (split seam) right at the web of my hand. Ouch!!!!

[jdgabbard]

Same with me... I open 2 cavs by hand. But on the 4-Cavity molds, I use a mallet.

[ANeat]

I use a small lead hammer, because thats what the instructions said to do (H&G)

[That'll Do]

I'm a whacker too–I use the RCBS wood mallet.

Of course, I don't whack the mould itself, only the handle or hinge pin.

[Bent Ramrod]

I used a hammer handle until it was so thin it had no hitting power. Then I switched to a rawhide mallet.

You have to show the mould who's boss!

[dbldblu]

I modify all my sprue plates such that an open end wrench fits them and then cam them open. Whacking cannot be good for mold alignment pins long term, I don't care what Lyman says.

[Fugowii]

I use a piece of Ash. On some I tap gently, on others I tap less gently. I haven't tried moving
the hot sprue plate by hand and don't intend to try. Seems to me that is akin to holding the
hamburger over the coals to cook it.

[wistlepig1]

No gloves, I know but like some of the other I don't have the hands of a twenty something anymore. I whack with a cut down plastic night stick, works great for me.

[Evil Dog]

Rawhide hammer works fine for me. Wear glove only on the hand that is holding the Lyman 4 cavity mold.... use RCBS bottom pour pot.

[AZ-Stew]

Whacking cannot be good for mold alignment pins long term, I don't care what Lyman says.

While you're whacking the boolits in the cavities are taking what little torque is generated, not the alignment pins. The mould handles must be held closed while whacking, otherwise all sorts of damage can occur. Same with throwing a pair of loose mould blocks in the drawer when finished with them. They need to be kept closed at all times when not casting. How do you think all the whackers here have gotten away with it for so long? And as others have said, you just can't open a gang mould by hand (Lees excepted). Too many sprues to cut. Certainly care must be taken. You can't beat up or down on the sprue plate, nor can you whack on it with a steel headed hammer. I think I have at least one mould I purchased used that someone abused in that manner. It bungs up the sprue plate something fierce. Other than that, though, the mould is very usable.

Regards,

Stew

[redriverhunter]

I dont use gloves and I find that flat head screwdriver about 6 inches works the best for me, if i need to adjust my drip o matic it in hand, i can test the hardness of the lead on the spruce plate before cutting and its handy been the best for me tried a platic mallet not nearly as good

[finishman2000]

why not? whatever is fastest for me. of coarse since i bought my master caster life has gotten easier all the way around

[Lloyd Smale]

cant stand wearing gloves when i cast.