I recently purchased this mold and it is filthy. What can I use to clean it and make it look a little better?
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/DSCI0044.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/DSCI0043.jpg
I recently purchased this mold and it is filthy. What can I use to clean it and make it look a little better?
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/DSCI0044.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/DSCI0043.jpg
314th Air Divsion
20th Tactical Air Support Squadron
RVN 67-68 & 68-69
Personal and Up "Close Air Support"
try WD-40 or similar rust removers
Steel wool dipped in light oil. For the cavities, chuck a brass bristle brush in a drill, dip it in light oil and spin in the cavities. Degrease, and cast.
Looks like a Lee aluminum mould, so that's not rust. It's the burned on lube somebody used. Try Gunscrubber and a stiff nylon brush, and emory cloth if that doesn't get it all.
I quit lubing my Lee moulds many years ago, and they work much better now.
You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore
If what ever is on them, doesn't keep them from making good boolits, I'd apply lots of hot lead and enjoy the results. Your targets will never know the difference.
On the other hand, if the cavities are fouled, be very cautious. Over aggressive cleaning can destroy sharp edges and increase diameters. A good soaking in mineral spirits might soften waxes and make removal easier.
This is a Lee aluminum mold and the bullet cavities are all ok...actually, they are in very good condition. It's definitely burned on lubes, etc. and very difficult to remove. Haven't tried the steel wool, but will definitely give it a try. Thanks.
314th Air Divsion
20th Tactical Air Support Squadron
RVN 67-68 & 68-69
Personal and Up "Close Air Support"
By the way, would it hurt to remove the sprue handle and drop the mould into boiling water for a few minutes?
314th Air Divsion
20th Tactical Air Support Squadron
RVN 67-68 & 68-69
Personal and Up "Close Air Support"
You say the cavities are good, so leave it alone as it won't affect casting and cleaning it up may if your too aggressive. If you insist on trying something, use q-tips and brake klean, acetone,gasoline or some such non abrasive and non acid solvent.
NO it would not hurt. It may be hard to remove the screw. The 2 cavity molds have hard to remove screws, but I don't own a 6 cavity mold. Boiling in water would clean a lot of it off. You can add a little soap but be warned about foam/boil over. I boiled some boolits with lube and they came out spotless.
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Use some brake clean or carb cleaner - nylon bristle brush at most. If it casts well now - LEAVE IT ALONE!! - you might screw something up trying to clean it!!
NRA Life Member
"The Constitution preserves the advantage of being armed that Americans possess over the people of almost every other nation, where the Governments are afraid to trust their people with arms." - James Madison.
I'd be very careful using any type of abrasive on the mold area that the sprue plate come in contact with.
The exception to this would be to strip off everything on the top of the mold and get some 1800 grit sand paper and a piece of glass and do the figure 8 thing until the top is clean.
This will keep the surface flat and square and do this with the blocks held squarely together!
This is burned on lube and the results of following Lee's instructions when setting up the
mold.
This can and will make things sticky and hard to close. The lube used was a wax base and no solvent will "melt" that or soften it.
If ou get this mold cleaned use a very light application of Antisieze on the pivot points and be very careful not to get it in the cavities, a little goes a very long way.
I'm of the school of thought that says brake part cleaner and super fine steel wool.
Old retired guy in Baton Rouge La.
Well I took the advice of several of you and just cast some bullets with it. Amazingly the mould cast some of the most fantastic bullets I have ever cast. I started out wanting to make a couple a hundred or so and wound up with a little over 2,000. If it hadn't been for my old arms giving out I'd probably still be casting. Guess I'll just leave the mould as is.....if it aint' broke, don't fix it!!!! Don't worry, I use these bullets in my Ruger 9mm and my .38 wheel gun. It makes for a very good target round. Thanks for all the good suggestions and advice.
314th Air Divsion
20th Tactical Air Support Squadron
RVN 67-68 & 68-69
Personal and Up "Close Air Support"
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |