I also came upon a large haul of moulds 35 lyman and RCBS moulds and about 15 Lee moulds.Now just need to know which ones I need to keep
I also came upon a large haul of moulds 35 lyman and RCBS moulds and about 15 Lee moulds.Now just need to know which ones I need to keep
prolly all of'em. sundog
Swampmaster,
Why don't you list them and we'll help you go through them. (grin)
Dave
Ok you asked for it I will start with the lyamn then the RCBS and the Lee I already have listed in the for sale because I know I dont need any of them.
410-28 2hole 212 grain Fn WILL SELL
358156GW 1hole 155 grain UNSURE
311410 1 hole 130 grain WILL KEEP
454424 1 hole 255 grain swc WILL KEEP
311413 1 hole 169 grain GC WILL KEEP
429421A 2 cavity 245 grain WILL KEEP
358495 4 hole 141 grain WC WILL SELL
358495 2 hole 141 grain wc WILL SELL
358495 2 hole 141 grain wc WILL SELL
358495 1 hole 141 grain wc WILL SELL
356402EM 2 hole 121 grain c UNSURE
450229 1 hole 155 grain C, MN WILL SELL
311359 2 hole 115 grain PTGC WILL SELL
35891B 2 hole 148 grain WC WILL SELL
225462 1 hole 57 grain RNGC WILL KEEP
35887 2 hole 140 grain WC WILL SELL
358477 2 hole 150 grain SWC UNSURE
356404 4 hole 95 grain FN WILL SELL
311284 1 hole 214 grain HPRNGC WILL KEEP
358156 1 hole 155 grain SWCGC UNSURE
358311 2 hole 158 grain RN WILL KEEP
356402 2 hole 121 grain C WILL SELL
Ideal 452484 1 hole 225 grain RNGC UNSURE
225415 2 hole 50 grain FN WILL KEEP
266459 1 hole ? grain RNGC WILL SELL
12ga. Slug 475 to 525 grain 1 hole UNSURE
257463 2 hole 75 grain RNGC WILL SELL
311291 2 hole 170 grain RNGC WILL KEEP
311291 2 hole 170 grain RNGC WILL KEEP
16ga. Slug HB 1 hole ? grain UNSURE
RCBS
38-148 WC 2 hole WILL SELL
25-50 RN 2 hole 50 grain WILL SELL
45-200 SWC 2 hole WILL KEEP
33-200 FN 2 hole WILL KEEP
35-200 FN 2 hole WILL KEEP
Then like I listed before I also have Lee moulds in the for sale section and I also got 7 New Lyman Mould Handle swhich I am Keeping
Last edited by swampmaster; 04-28-2006 at 10:42 PM.
What do you want for the RCBS 35-200-FN ?
I am not sure all what I want to keep or need to keep but I know I need the 35-200 for my 356 winchester and 35 rem. I also think I need to keep some of the 22 cal moulds just in case I ever decide to cast for them.
I really would like to hear what moulds I should keep that I might not be able to replace some day.Then I will decide what all to get rid of and give first chance at them here in the for sale
I think I see 2 of the 358156 moulds. If you decide to let one go, I'm sure interested in one in a 1 hole design.
Also interested in the 257463 2 holer.
I guess we'll hear from you when you have it all figured out what to keep, what to divest.
Regards,
WE
If you want to trade or, sell SM I'd like the:
454424
311284
THanks
Pat
Swamp:
"I really would like to hear what moulds I should keep that I might not be able to replace some day."
From my experience - and even though it might benefit others of us - DON'T SELL ANY of your moulds! I sold about fifty several years back, in a fit of "housecleaning" - and have ended up buying replacements for at least a dozen of them. Loan them, fine, but think twice before selling.
floodgate
Last edited by floodgate; 04-27-2006 at 01:07 AM.
NOV SHMOZ KA POP?
id be interested in that rcbs 38- 90rn mold.
I'd be interested in the 33-200 FN 2 hole if it's excess to your needs. Perhaps we can work out a swap.
I could be interested in the RCBS 25-50 mold.
God Bless America
US Army, NRA Patron, TSRA Life
SASS, Ruger & Marlin accumulator
I too would like a 358156. HP or not, doesn't matter, I just want to assemble and shoot some of "Skeeter's loads"
Dennis
Swamp
PM about the 41-212-FN mold.
Jerry
Pigrim, are you sure you know how to skin grizzer bear....
I'll be needing that for squirrels and such....
I'm interested in any of the 22 cal moulds if you deside to get rid of them!
Any Idea of the difference between the 358156GW and the 356156Originally Posted by C1PNR
I have nbo need for most of these moulds and will offer them here before anywhere else.That I promise,but what are considered fair prices for some of these.Some of them I have seen what they are selling for new and think it is unreal. Can someone that is not interested in any of them give me a fair and reasonable asking price on most of these.That may also help me decide which ones to keep or not keep
Everyone Is Entitled To Be Stupid, But Some Abuse The Privilege
Suppose this has anything to do with that hammer game, "Whack-a-mole?"Originally Posted by AkMike
swampmaster:
"Any Idea of the difference between the 358156GW and the 356156"
So far as we have been able to determine, the two letters (like "GW") following the "caliber + cherry number" code Lyman uses have no specific meaning; they may just be a date code, an ID of the machine used or its operator, or maybe the specific cherry if they have several in use at one time. A "U" prefix on an older mould from the '50's - 70's means "Undersize", "ES" means "extra-small", and an "S" can also mean either "small", or - in at least one case - "short" (where the cherry is run only part-way into the mould). You should see a one-, two- or three-digit number stamped elsewhere on BOTH of the Lyman / Ideal blocks of a set; it is a "match number", to keep the pair of blocks together after cherrying (i.e., cutting the mould cavity half-way into each block simultaneously with a form cutter) through subsequent machining, finishing and packaging. If they don't match, you've got an interesting problem!
BUT, Lyman seems to grind successive cherries "by eye" as the old ones wear down, so two moulds with the same ID number may well differ in details of shape, weight and diameter (not to mention alloy, casting temperature or technique).
There are also changes in "fashions", like rounded vs. square-cut, vs. beveled lube grooves, drive band widths, etc., etc. - as has been discussed extensively in connection with the "Will the REAL Keith bullet please stand up?" discussions over the past few months.
All I can say is cast 'em and see.
"You pays yer nickel (lotsa them!) and yer takes yer chances!"
floodgate
NOV SHMOZ KA POP?
Thanks for the info that helped alot, Now maybe you can answer another question the Lyman 311284 mould I have is a RNGC- HP is the HP needed or can I cast a solid with it or is the HP more desireable?ANd what might I use this bullet for?
Everyone Is Entitled To Be Stupid, But Some Abuse The Privilege
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |