Blackhawk Grip Frame Swap

[Uncle Grinch]

I just bought a stainless grip frame from Brownells for my Ruger Blackhawk in 45 Colt. Haven’t received it yet, so been watching a few YouTube videos. Any tips or thing I need to be aware of before starting this project?

[pietro]

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The sides of the upper/forward section of the new grip frame may/may not need to be fitted/filed to make both sides flush with the sides of the cylinder frame.

[Uncle Grinch]

Thanks… I’ll check that when it arrives.

[M-Tecs]

I've only done switching Blackhawks to Bisleys. The Bisley grip frames required extensive fitting. I used a milling machine to remove excess material.

[Bazoo]

The top of the ears, sides of the ears, and sides of the upper grip frame will all need to be flushed. Start by putting 2 screws in, remove and file until pretty close. Then repeat but switch to sandpaper on a backer. When you get very close, install all 5 screws. It'll mess your screws up removing them 100 times.

Expect to spend 8 hours or more on getting it right.

[contender1]

If you bought a grip frame "in the white" it will need to be fitted & finished.

Lots of good info above.

To prevent excessive wear on actual screws,, I use a set of "gunsmithing screws" for such work. I bought them long ago,, and don't think they are available anymore from the seller. But if you have a lathe,, easily made from hex stock.



The 3 screws on the right will be the ones used to most on the New Models. The other 2 screws are for the Old Model's. I actually altered my set a bit. I too (2) of the 3 identical screws,, and lengthened the shaft portion,, (or removed the shoulder portion, whichever way you want to look at it,) to prevent the accidental rubbing of the shoulder on the trigger guard edge. Easily done on my lathe.

[Ed K]

The heads of the Ruger screws are not always concentric with the threaded shaft. This will impair repeatability.