I have one of those on my M1 Garand and it is fantastic except for it's heavy. On the Garand there are no modifications at all, just remove action from stock, take off top wood, and mount, put back together. The Garand does have space between the stock and barrel and the clamp for that mount is stamped steel and thin with LOTS of tightening screws. You probably would have to remove some wood in the barrel channel on the 03, but when you put it back together normal you wouldn't see it, but just know it's there.
I’ve often wondered if you could epoxy a scope mount on. Has anyone tried it?
I've used epoxy (JB Weld) to 'match' a mount to a receiver/barrel, but, the mount was actually secured with screws.
"Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson
"Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children
That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.
I at one time made knives for a hobby and friends. The first pommel I on the first knife I made, I epoxied it on without the benefit of drilling and tapping it. Wrong move. I accidentally dropped the knife onto a concrete floor and it hit butt first. Knife went one way and the pommel went the other. That was an eye opener and I did some reading up on epoxies. Seems like most of them are subject to a low "shear" strength. Meaning a sudden stress and they can pop loose. From then on until I quite making knives I drilled and tapped or used thread pommels. my experience anyway, james
I would investigate what an eye doctor could do do you as concerning shooting specific prescription lenses. You will want to measure, as accurately as possible, the distance from your eye to the front sight. Some people use bi-focal with the reading prescription on top.
Yes, I have. When it came time to take it off, I had to apply quite a bit of heat. Not excessive and it came off. I had to heat the action then wire brush it to get the residue off. The front half ring over the receiver ring was quite hard to get off. That was a 303 Brit. On 22's - piece of cake. I did remove one picatinny rail cold. It took the bluing off! A frit and a hammer and it took several blows to get it off. The next one I remove, I used heat. And that is where epoxy fails.
I should point out that I used epoxy as a temporary measure. But now I am quite happy to use epoxy on 22's. Oh yes ... I also attach suppressor mounts using LocTite. Very difficult to get off when one does want to remove it. One has to heat it till the LocTite thermally decomposes. That's a lot of heat over the barrel but as long as the heat is only applied to the mount, it doesn't overheat the barrel. But again, if the barrel gets hot from firing, the LocTite could fail. Epoxy on the other hand, fails at much lower temperature but a temperature that the action would have a hard time reaching.
I still wouldn't recommend it even though I do it myself. Never do what a crazy person does!
And that overbarrel is also glued on but this time with glass fiber and polyester resin.
The 22. I like high scopes. That rail is sitting on a bed of epoxy.
And another one.
You can't see it here but this is also glued on. Here the scope rail is screwed to an aluminum angle piece that has the sight dovetail glued and screwed on and that angle is then glued onto the action.
Last edited by 303Guy; 06-30-2023 at 05:15 PM.
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''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |