9 mm mold help

[Krh1326]

Hi All!

Just received my new NOE 9mm Truncated Cone mold, and cast up some new to me boolits. I had been using Lee 356-124-TC prior to this.

My COL for the TC, that works super sweet, for my Sig P938, lands the case mouth, a hair shy of the beginning of the taper, of the TC. With this mold, that actually works out, right on the forward leading edge, of the forward band.

I’ll need to adjust my COL to put that taper crimp, in a functional spot.
Assuming that either position will work for my Sig… should I be trying to get the crimp, in the band ( spot 1 on the drawing) or should I be aiming for that .020” sliver ( spot 2 in drawing) between band and taper ?

Thanks for any input!

[Hick]

Hopefully someone who uses this mold will add something, but my advice is to try chambering a couple. Remember - the mouth of the 9mm case has to engage the lip inside the chamber (the cases headspace on the mouth of the case). Spot 2 might allow the case mouth to be turned in a little which might let the case slide a little too far into the chamber. I'd try one of each and see what chambers and feeds best.

[Krh1326]

That is pretty much what I was thinking, but being a noob, I really wanted to “hear” from someone else.
I was thinking trying to taper crimp, in spot 2, in that .020 area, would be about the same as putting in a roll crimp, lol.
I wonder why that spot is even there. Why not fly directly from the band to the meplate, like Lee mold is…

I thank you, sir.

[rintinglen]

If your gun will let you, I'd go with the #1 setting. #2 will result in the boolit being deeply seated and will impact your use of higher end loads. All else being equal, deeper seating gives higher pressures.

[Dusty Bannister]

I would say that the reduced area in front of the driving band is intended to let the bullet extend a little further into the throat so it has better support when fired. A correct taper crimp will not allow any "roll over" of the case mouth as long as you crimp only enough to reduce the flare.

One method of determining the cartridge OAL for your bullet and barrel combination is the old dowel or cleaning rod method. A measurement is taken from the end of the barrel to the face of the breech, and then again with a bullet gently pressed into the throat. The difference between the center of the two marks will show the max COAL. Send a PM if you are not familiar with that method.

[Krh1326]

Killer replies! That’s why I dig this site. Thank you all.

[gwpercle]

I've had this mould since 2015 and it is one of my most used moulds .
I taper crimp on the top driving band , spot #1, right below spot #2 .
9mm luger headspaces on the case mouth ... Do Not roll crimp into spot #2 ...this will give you headspacing problems and possibly erratic primer ignition .
Again ... taper crimp , on the top driving band ... spot #1... right below (about the thickness of your thumb nail ), that tiny ledge you have labeled spot #2 .
Taper crimp to iron out any case flare .
I use this boolit and this way of crimping in 9mm Luger , 38 Super , 38 Special , 38 spcl +P and 357 Magnum loads ...I taper crimp the revolver round also (use 9mm taper crimp die on them.
and my mould is cut for Gas Check boolit ... can drive them +1200 fps with no leading problems .

The "Plunk Test" will also show if OAL is right ... the newer and smaller the pistol ...the less throat they put and the deeper the boolit has to be seated to chamber & extract cleanly . Load up a dummy or two ...no primer no powder to verify OAL and that it will pass the plunk test before loading any live ones .
Once you have OAL right keep dummies for adjusting dies ... saves time .

I really Like / Love this boolit design !
Gary

[gwpercle]

I would say that the reduced area in front of the driving band is intended to let the bullet extend a little further into the throat so it has better support when fired. A correct taper crimp will not allow any "roll over" of the case mouth as long as you crimp only enough to reduce the flare.

One method of determining the cartridge OAL for your bullet and barrel combination is the old dowel or cleaning rod method. A measurement is taken from the end of the barrel to the face of the breech, and then again with a bullet gently pressed into the throat. The difference between the center of the two marks will show the max COAL. Send a PM if you are not familiar with that method.

Dusty Knows ... do what he say's !
Gary

[mdi]

Just a thought on semi-auto crimping. I do not "crimp" any of the 4 semi-auto calibers I reload, I just use a taper crimp die to "deflare" the case mouths. When seating bullets I seat to determined OAL and for my semi-auto handloads ignore where the case mouth lies on the bullet (crimp groove, shoulder, etc.) because I'm not forming the case mouth into a groove or over a shoulder. When deflaring, it doesn't matter because the "crimp" does not hold the bullet in place like revolver ammo, it is done with neck tension. I have no need to measure case mouths after deflaring, just deflare enough to remove/straighten out flare and give good plunk tests. This has worked quite well for many years on my 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 9mm (a few thousand rounds), and 45 ACP (a few thousand rounds).

[fredj338]

That is pretty much what I was thinking, but being a noob, I really wanted to “hear” from someone else.
I was thinking trying to taper crimp, in spot 2, in that .020 area, would be about the same as putting in a roll crimp, lol.
I wonder why that spot is even there. Why not fly directly from the band to the meplate, like Lee mold is…

I thank you, sir.

The step is to allow seating without contacting the rifling. I have a Saeco 147gr RN mold that has a step. So I can load it a bit longer & not have the full caliber shoulder hit rifling, if that makes sense.

[Krh1326]

The step is to allow seating without contacting the rifling. I have a Saeco 147gr RN mold that has a step. So I can load it a bit longer & not have the full caliber shoulder hit rifling, if that makes sense.

Absolutely! I get it now

I thank you all, so much