FN Browning 1910/22 safety notches

[olgandalf]

I just acquired an FN Browning 1910/22. It works fine except for one thing. The safety notch that is closest to the muzzle will not line up with the safety. It won't go back quite far enough. I assume that this is because the slide is not the one issued with the pistol but comes from a different 1910/22. (It doesn't have a serial number stamped on the underside of the slide.) The only difficulty this causes is in disassembly and assembly. Since the safety can't hold the slide in position, I have to hold it by hand--77 year old pencil pusher hands! A conceivable solution is to widen the notch so the safety will go in. But like you all, I am creeped out at the thought of permanently altering an old firearm. Is there something that I'm missing here? Something I don't understand? [Edit: I just checked. The slide does in fact have the same serial number. I guess I'm blind as well having other problems.]

[olgandalf]

One more thing: The slide will go back far enough for the safety to go in the second notch if the firing pin and spring and spring guide are removed. But not if the firing pin is in without the spring and guide. Should I take of a hair of the rear part of the fp?

[olgandalf]

And I notice that the pictures in Numrich show the ridge that goes in the slot is relieved at a slant from the base of the firing pin. This is exactly where the cocked hammer, also slanted, interfaces with the FP. Hmm.

[AZ Pete]

Have you looked at the Youtube video of disassembly?

[olgandalf]

AZ Pete. Yes. Several of them. That's what led me to think that the safety should go in the forward notch before removing the barrel.

[Ragnarok]

My 1910 works similiar....it will hook the front notch but won't stay or hold under spring pressure. Take the spring retainer off and then the safety hooks the notch and you can rotate the barrel out.

I know that works different than my old FN 1905 .25 and even smaller Browning design Bauer .25 both of those the safety latches the front notch for take down. I came to the conclusion that's just the way the bigger 1910 comes apart...retainer and spring have to come out first

[olgandalf]

I tried putting it together without the spring.That gave a clearer idea of how everything works. Now everything seems to be fine. It rattles when I shake it, but Google led me to post saying that was common to many semi-autos.

[2152hq]

It may be the firing pin spring that is too long.
It may be a replacement,,and just any old spring that was available of a diameter that fit.
If the wire dia or number of coils is not right,,when the spring is fully compressed it may not leave any room for the slide to go back that last little amt needed.
No extra clearance betw the coils of the spring,,they are stacked tightly on full compression is what I'm thinking.,,and the slide still needs to move back a bit more.

Leave the firing pin and the guide in the pistol,,,but leave the firing pin spring out. (I think you already did this)
Then re-try the slide for how far to the rear it will retract.
If you can move it far enough to the rear to lock the Safety in the front notch,,,then it is the Firing Pin Spring that is a bit too long,,likely a replacement.

Shortening the spring a little at a time can make it work OK as far as the locking the slide issue.
It may make it a little weak as far as firing the cartridges,,but doesn't sound like you'll be shortening it a lot if this s the problem.

[James Wisner]

I have all ways removed the bushing first from the slide, then take out the recoil spring, then the rest of the take down is a snap.
I would look at a Wolff spring set to replace all of the coil springs in your gun

[rintinglen]

James is on the right track. I have two 1910/1955"s and a 1922 in 32 ACP and I always remove the bushing first. I also second his suggestion to buy a set of Wolff springs.