When we moved off the ranch, I misplaced, ok, I lost my break cleaner spray can that I used to take oil and greases out of mould cavaties. I found some Break Free CLP "that didn't get lost". Will that work as well?
Thanks!
When we moved off the ranch, I misplaced, ok, I lost my break cleaner spray can that I used to take oil and greases out of mould cavaties. I found some Break Free CLP "that didn't get lost". Will that work as well?
Thanks!
It's all chicken, even the beak!
Greetings,
I would think not. CLP tends to penetrate the surface of the metal.
When you start casting, the CLP will start to out gas making quality bullets quite difficult.
In a pinch, Hensley & Gibbs used to recommend gasoline. A very small amount for obvious reasons.
99% Isopropyl Alcohol, available at most pharmacies, is also a good degreaser. Note, you want 99% as the lesser ones have oils in them.
Cheers,
Dave
No, go get some brake or carburetor cleaner.
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
Aliphatic mineral spirits, aka Varsol or Stoddard solvent.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I use Coleman fuel, commonly known as white gas
Easy off oven cleaner rinse and dry.
HEET in the red bottle is 100% isopropyl alcohol!
Anyone try Slip 2000 ? It's a degreaser.
Thanks for all the replies!
It's all chicken, even the beak!
Chemtool B12 because it leaves no residue. Do Not use brake cleaner on anything hot, the fumes can be poisonous.
Heat will remove oil better than solvent. With solvent you are diluting the oil and smearing it around. Heat the mold to 400F for an hour and the oil will evaporate. Standard practice for prepping metal for paint is to heat it to 300C, might be a little high for molds.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
Why not just hot water and Dawn dish detergent it will get the oil off and since your using hot water you won't hurt the blocks.
I doubt the CLP will work. I use either brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner.
Acetone is the very best ... Lacquer Thinner is second best .
CLP = Cleaner Lubricant and Protector isn't even a contender ...it is a Lubricant !
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
If I remember correctly CLP stands for Cleans Lubricates Protects. I use lacquer thinner or Chemtool B12 as Mal Paso advised. Brake or carb cleaner will work but leaves a filmy residue.
NRA Life 1992
My avatar is almost a dead ringer for my little buddy Chico. Six pounds of mean that thought he was a Pit Bull. Miss that little guy.
Trichloroethylene
I use Simple Green normally and before that I used Dawn. Just spray/wash the mold, scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse in hot water.
I keep an eye out for brake cleaner at the local NAPA store. Buy when it is on sale.
John
W.TN
+1 on the break cleaner, if I'm out of it I use hot water with a touch of dawn then a real good rinse in hot water and dry immediately.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |