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Thread: Lee powder measure got more Perfect

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Lee powder measure got more Perfect

    Well I have two old style lee perfect powder measures. They both do well with stick powders but leak and bind with ball powders, with w296 being the worst I've tried. Been using them anyways and they are accurate.

    Well after researching it and mulling it over a while I finally decided to lap the rotor and body.

    I disassembled the rotor, cleaned it best I could with a rag, then smeared a layer of 320 lapping compound on the rotor. I put the rotor in the body and rotated it by hand back and forth, occasionally spinning it all the way, first one direction then the other. Probably bout a minute. Then I wiped the lapping compound off the parts, being sure to get what was in the nooks and crannies. I put my finger in my graphite power and gave both the body and rotor a coat.

    I reassembled and run some 296 through it. Wow! Should have done it years ago. So smooth, no binding, no leaking.

    Then I repeated on my other with the same results.

    If you're considering lapping your PPM, don't wait!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Good to know. I have only 1 PPM and it is quite stiff. I assume that would free it's movement.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    This is exactly what I did with mine about twelve years ago. Works great.

  4. #4
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I was always worried about getting too violent and ruining the close tolerances on things like that.

    I take my rotor out and wax it like you would the car when I switch over to different powders.
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    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    It completely cured the stiffness rbuck. It still isn't as smooth as a metal measure but it takes much much less effort to throw.

    Ed, me too sir, that's why it took me so long to take the plunge. The first measure I was a bit more gentle with, the second I used more force and it was even better.

    I was concerned about that rubber wiper, but I ignored it and it didn't offer any problems.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    when you say mulling it over, I thought I was about to read that you traded it in for a Belding and mull

  7. #7
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    I lapped mine when new with powdered graphite, plastic and cheap (20.98) but throws perfect and doesn't leak.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by slohunter View Post
    I lapped mine when new with powdered graphite, plastic and cheap (20.98) but throws perfect and doesn't leak.
    Lee Precision notes to run a pound thru their drum powder measures when new or cleaned. I also used powdered graphite then I used the pound of powder.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I ran a pound of powder through my first when I got it. And it didn't help the issues of binding or leaking. It more helps the issues of uniform settling of powder.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Hey Bazoo,
    I had a P p.m. quite a few years back when I got back into reloading. I never much cared for it. I do however, really like the auto desk in the older safety disk! I also have two uniflows and Lyman 55. All of which I like much better than my ppm. Which I trade it off along time ago. But I am glad you got yours working to your satisfaction.
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I will have to try that as mine leaks like a sieve with ball powders. Presently I just use my Lee Perfect with stick.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I did the same as Bazoo only i did it multiple times. When i cleaned the housing and rotor i looked for wear on the high spots. An since there were large areas that were not unfirmally worn. I did a second and third lapping to get as much area leveled as posable.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbstenberg View Post
    I did the same as Bazoo only i did it multiple times. When i cleaned the housing and rotor i looked for wear on the high spots. An since there were large areas that were not unfirmally worn. I did a second and third lapping to get as much area leveled as posable.
    When you were finished, did the work pay off?

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Howdy, thanks for the replies.

    I have two PPMs. One was bought new and the other second hand. The new one still leaked but was free of binding after the lapping, and has received a second lapping. The older one benefitted more, and leaks still, but very minimally.

    They did leak with bullseye and unique even, and badly with 296. But now they don't leak at all with the flake powders and much reduced with ball.

    The best part is the no binding. You don't have to tighten the screw down to try to reduce leaking, and it's much easier to make the stroke now.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Yes no leakage and easier turning

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    To me, just easier turning would be worth it and less leakage could be counted as a bonus!

    The super fine powders work very well in my Uniflow so switching measures is no big deal. The friction with the Lee Perfect is a concern because with a plastic housing you have just so much strength. Exceed it and it’s garbage can time!

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have to do this with mine, although it has been very good out of the box with only ball powder giving any issues. I use my auto-drum when doing bulk loading and those are basically pre-lapped, but graphite on both measures makes a huge difference.

    I really like the PPM, it drops the most consistent loads of any powder measure I have ever used, the only non-LEE measure I currently have is a very early Lyman 55 which collects dust, the only reason I keep it is for nostalgia as it is the first measure I got, but unfortunately can't compare to the lowly LEE for accuracy, it is heavy though!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check