the problem could very well be the hard brass. i have never resized anything but 9mm before. This brass took about everything the press had to get it sized. I had to really lube them up. I got one stuck and it was a real pain to get out. I'd say it was taking 60 lbs of pull on the handle to get them sized. I did get 100 sized though with the shim between the shell holder and the case.
It would be a new one on me, but worth checking it out.
Cognitive Dissident
I also had same problem with some norma brass. I dont think its military brass or atleast it didnt have crimped primers.
Another datum. Norma brass is nothing if not consistently on spec.
Cognitive Dissident
I cut one of the old military cases in half lengthwise and annealed one half. it is much easier to bend than the half that's not annealed. So if I load these again I'll try annealing first.
a RCBS technician told me to turn the dies 1/4 turn past touched the shell holder in such a circumstance. It worked - evidently there is some play that this took out.
USMC E-5 69-72
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That’s good to know. I have a lot of mil ‘06 sitting on the sidelines and have not sent it to the smelter. I also have so much commercial brass in the same there is really no need to chance it.
The price of bore scopes has plummeted to the point where anyone can afford them and having a peek inside cases for incipient case head separation and corrosion or whatever is here and now.
I work on my Savage rifle’s quite a bit and a previous owner could have shortened your head space just a tad. I know you tried a loaded factory round with a layer of cellophane tape but I am still dubious about your headspace in that rifle. I do the tape bit but the definitive test would be a set of gauges. They cost money and who knows how long to get them in this frenzied Times?
I still think I would just run your commercial brass, leave shell holder and die uncut and try annealing a few mil cases and do your shim trick if I were in your shoes.
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
Since you're new to loading I'm going to tell you something for safety, that you may know already via your research. When you anneal cases, make sure you only anneal the neck area. The top 1/3 or so. The head and lower 1/3 must remain hard to contain the pressure.
Use a socket and a drill adapter to spin the case, get the neck dull red and tip the drill to drop the case in a bucket of water.
I think you're mistaken about where the pressure is. At the top of the ram stroke, you have pressure from everywhere on the case. The base area has some, but much less than the shoulder. The shoulder has the most resistance. The neck has the least. Annealing will help a lot.
It just feels like the base is where it's at because it's the last area to add it's resistance to the stroke.
If you have a few military cases that chambered after you full length resize them with the shim , you should be able to load and shoot them fire forming them to your chamber . Then you can use a fire formed case to measure your chamber length , possibly slide a case or something over the neck touching the shoulder to get a measurement to compare to a case that won't chamber .
I would definitely soften the neck and shoulder on all the used brass , with a little hand torch - it's probably hardened with age causing spring back .
Take one case that won't size down enough to chamber drop it in a socket that fits the case base - chuck it in a drill - sit the little torch on the bench so it's stable so you can watch what you are doing safety - while spinning the case with the drill as slowly as possible hold the case neck into the fire- pay close attention to the neck it will become shiny at first then you will see a slight blue line under the shiny section just hold the case in the fire until the faint blue line travels a 1/4-1/2 inch below the shoulder - immediately remove at that point . It should only take a few seconds 8-10 count while you are doing it . Let it cool and then try to full length resize it . That will take the spring back out of setting the neck back a few thousands .
Yup
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...&submit=Search
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...g-45-acp-case/
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...h-bump-collar/ this one would be a piece of cake for a machinist to make and more repeatable than a 45 case.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-01-2021 at 04:03 PM.
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I made a gauge to slip over the rounds that contacts the shoulder so I can compare the lengths of the rounds. My die sizes these military cases about .004 longer than a factory round. I shot 4 of loaded military rounds and they do not get longer when I shoot them but they do get longer when I resize them. They are .004 longer after sizing than before. They will chamber but you have to really muscle the bolt.
https://i.ibb.co/7nXgvWd/20210301-182708.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/BfzHWcx/20210301-184303.jpg
Last edited by Jim P.; 03-01-2021 at 07:47 PM.
I tried to anneal the neck on one case but it still comes out the same length
The case shoulder length grows when sized because you're narrowing the body but not setting the shoulder back cause of a too long die. I'd adjust the die length so it sized the same as a factory round.
How much difference is there between the shoulder on a factory round and a fired case from your gun?
If you load some and happens you get a tight one, it's still safe to shoot. Only if it's tight from the shoulder, and not excessive case length.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |