Do you use something like Frankford Arsenols Drop out spray? Yay? Nay? Opinions?

[Conditor22]

make sure the mold is 110% clean
make sure there are no burs on the cavities
preheat mold
have alloy at good casting temperature 680-720° (750° for pure)
purge spout before each pour to remove cooler lead and you should be golden

I have been known to lightly smoke a stubborn mold or burn out a cavity with a propane torch.

I've bought molds with SO MUCH SMOKE ON THEM THE SIDES DIDN'T CLOSE


BTW any variance in pot temperature or mold temperature can affect the size/weight of the boolit, that's why "OCD" casters monitor the temperature of their molds as well as the pot.

[charlie b]

I used to smoke molds all the time. Now days I don't use it at all, even on my Lee molds. Just clean and use.

I just got a few new Lee molds. Cleaned really well with acetone. Each one only took about 20 casts to 'break in'. My lead pot usually runs 600F.

[gwpercle]

I smoked my molds and a guy I know said I was doing it old school. He said he uses Frankford Arsenols Drop Out spray on his molds. What is your opinions on that? I've heard many say never use anything that you spray into a mold. Pro's? Cons? Opinions?

Thanks!

The only drawback I have found is the coating will / can build up over time . At one time I used it every session ... but the build up started causing problems and cleaning all that black crud of every mould was Royal Pane in the behind . Stopped using it . Found a spray of dry lube , the kind with micro-teflon in it worked better and didn't leave a build up on the mould .
The Drop Out is good to spray the inside wall of your casting pot and to spay on your casting ladle, inside and out or ingot moulds ...
After a mould is seasoned and broken in they should require nothing ...but if having trouble use Dry Lube Spray...it doesn't contanminate or build up and any excess spray wipes off .
Gary

[Gtrubicon]

I’ve never needed a product like this, hope I dont

[Jack Stanley]

The only product I've used recently is smoke from a match or the old time NEI "Mold Prep".

Jack

[slim1836]

I used a mold release agent and smoked them, hopefully never again. YMMV is all I'm saying.

Slim

[LenH]

The only thing that I use what is left of that mold release spray is to coat the pins for a stubborn HP pins. I ruined an old Lee with that stuff.

[fredj338]

I dont use anything on my molds, not even smoking them. Some require more break in than others but all release, iron or alum.

[TNsailorman]

I first tried using mold release agents(2 or 3 different brands), they caused more problems than they cured. Then I tried the smoke coating method. That was better than mold release but it still caused some stickiness. I finally quit using anything but a dry mold and that worked better for me than anything I had tried. I usually cast in small batches and cleaned my mold well between batches and that worked out for me. my experience anyway and may not work for all, james

[Cherokee]

I have never in 50+ years used any mold cavity "drop out' stuff. I have polished a few, it works.

[Vegas Vince]

50 years of smoking molds, always works. After several years if they start sticking, clean them well & re-smoke.

[fcvan]

When I first started casting on my own, I bought Lee and smoked with Ohio Tip matches. I don't recall ever seeing Dad do anything but cast with his Saeco molds, bought when Saeco was just down the road 20 miles. He cast until they were good, never did anything other than that. I have his old molds, he is still with us, he just leaves his casting/loading to his sons.

I thought Aluminum might be different so I smoked. 35+ years later, I just wash with Dawn and hot water and an old toothbrush. I have bought many molds since, the only problem with boolits sticking has been burrs. I use chopsticks for mold maintenance, small end for lubing with 2 cycle oil, large end for cleaning/de-burring and such. I have one Lee mold I know I have cast 750K boolits with, rebuilt 3 times. By rebuilt I mean tapping and replacing the sprue plate bolt with a slightly larger bolt due to wear.

Current sprue bolt has been good for the last 500K. First rebuild was due to loaning the mold to a noob who almost wrecked it. He did offer to replace the 2 molds he messed up. I fixed both by removing the sprue plate, lapping the mold tops, and re-tapping the bolt. Maintaining the both tension has negated the need for further repair.

Using wooden chopsticks has been critical to good casting. I dip the tip with 2 cycle oil and the wood fibers hold an ample amount of oil. I lube the mating surfaces, and lightly swab the sprue plate on only one side, the cutting side. Yes, I have gotten oil in the cavities, took 30 or 40 castings to purge the oil, I just resorted to hot soapy water.

I have had several new molds, NOE and Lee that just cast and dropped out of the box. Part of that may have been due to good temp of the melt, but I generally wash my molds before first use. I haven't smoked a mold in 30 years but have washed a bunch. BTW, I still have Saeco and Lyman molds, always stored with cast in them. The outside of the molds got patina rust, due to the Pacific North West climate, but the cavities are pristine. Never a problem in CO, very dry climate.

[El Greco]

I smoked my molds and a guy I know said I was doing it old school. He said he uses Frankford Arsenols Drop Out spray on his molds. What is your opinions on that? I've heard many say never use anything that you spray into a mold. Pro's? Cons? Opinions?

Thanks!

Don’t do it. It makes your boolits smaller and your mounds dirty.

[45workhorse]

I have sprayed the top of my lead pot, helps keep rust down! Never in the molds/moulds!

[oldsalt444]

The frankford arsenal release spray is just arosaled powderd graphite.

You can clean it right off with break clean.

Apply to a cold mold.

I use it on my lee molds.




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Lee specifically says to NOT use any spray-on mold release. Just a little too much can block the vent cuts. I use a wooden match to smoke the mold. Leaves a very light coating of smoke which is just right.

[45DUDE]

When I have one stick I take my screwdriver that I put a 90 on the end and a sharp end like an ice pick and when one is a little sticky poke it the middle of the boolit from the top and it falls out easy. Some times a hammer handle works ok. Lyman molds seem to be the worst to stick <THEY DON'T STICK-THEY FIT TIGHT> but when you get the routine down it's easy. Molds that stick a little make very good boolits. The more you use them the better they fall. I hate to smooth a good mold that sticks a little because you can't undo it.

[NorthMoccasin]

I have used the FA spray on balky aluminum molds without problems and good results. The key is DONT USE TOO MUCH! and wipe the cavities with a clean Q tip to remove all but a very thin film. Also wipe the block faces with a Q tip. If you worry about the vent lines use a tooth brush to clean them out. This technique has turned stubborn molds into easy droppers. Not every mold needs it but it sure helps some.