ISO long and heavy .50 ML bullet

[BlackPowderLove]

Hello all. I recently picked up a .50 muzzleloader with a short barrel in a quick 1:24" twist. I would like to try some long and heavy bullets (upper 400s grain or bigger) to test out before I decided on purchasing or having a mold made. I am looking for 10-20 to try out.

Here is one from Accurate molds that intrigues me...

[LeadHead72]

Would a RCBS 50-450-FN be helpful? I have one that's in super nice condition.

[Mr Peabody]

Look and see if Power Belt still makes their 444gr.

[dogmower]

887 grain .512 too big?

[megasupermagnum]

That sure looks like a bullet from No Excuses. https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.co...er-495-grains/

[475/480]

Looks like he is asking for a .501 mold and some are trying to get him a .510" mold???.
Make sure of size.


Sean

[LeadHead72]

I fail to see where he specified a .501 mould.

[megasupermagnum]

I fail to see where he specified a .501 mould.

It's a 50 caliber muzzleloader, most have a bore .500" to .502". .503" is a nice fit in my TC Impact that wont come off the powder charge.

[lup]

I’ve had good luck with the maxi ball mould from Thompson Center or similar. As a bonus, TC sells the projectiles so you can ensure they work before sourcing a mould.

[Good Cheer]

Hello all. I recently picked up a .50 muzzleloader with a short barrel in a quick 1:24" twist. I would like to try some long and heavy bullets (upper 400s grain or bigger) to test out before I decided on purchasing or having a mold made. I am looking for 10-20 to try out.

Here is one from Accurate molds that intrigues me...

Something I tried was off the shelf fifty rifle molds with the bullets swaged down to slip fit for the bore. When you do that you are moving around a lot of lead but when the gun goes off you're moving around a lot of lead any way. And to make a heavy bullet work in a short barreled hunting piece you're gonna use the hefty charge required to oomph the lead back out to fill the grooves as quick as you can make it happen as well as hit the animal where you wanted to and as hard as you wanted. It's not a perfect solution but it can do the job.

[charlie b]

First, welcome to the slug club

If you want to try something before buying a mold then try the Hornady Great Plains bullets. They are only 380gn (IIRC) but they shoot well. I size them down to .501 rather than use the engraving band on the bullet. They slip down the bore of my Lyman GPH at that size.

For casting your own there are several options. The first thing you need to do is figure out what your bore dia is (distance between the lands, not grooves). Then get a sizing die that is exactly the same or .001 smaller. Also get some card and felt wads since you will be loading using those under the bullet.

That Acc mold is a nice design, but, you may need to size it down to fit your bore. I have also used the Lee mold made for the .500 S&W that comes out at about 450gn, but, I paper patch it. There are several molds made for the S&W that will work just fine. As you have seen Accurate and NOE have several. I have also bought paper patch bullets from Buffalo Arms Co. The 450gn bullets have been very accurate in my Lyman. The 550's were a bit too long and didn't stabilize in my 1:32 twist barrel and 80gn powder.

Which brings up the other option, paper patching. A little more work to make the bullets and have to take a little care handling the patched bullets, but they shoot really well. If interested there is a great sticky on paper patching. I shoot the .500 S&W cast bullet paper patched. I size it down to .496 (I had a custom sizing die made by Lee). Then paper patch and run through the .501 sizing die to 'set' the paper.

For any of these the lead needs to be soft, 8bhn or so. Wheel weights are too hard. You need the bullet soft so the powder charge slams into the back of the bullet and 'swages' it up until it fills the grooves. 80-100gn of powder usually does the trick. I use 100gn with 'bare' bullets and 80gn with paper patched. The use of card and/or lubed felt wads usually increase accuracy a lot as well, even with patched bullets. I usually pour the powder, then seat a card wad using a lot of compression. Then the felt wad and bullet. They are a slip fit and will slide down easily, even with a fouled barrel.

These are great fun to shoot and can be very accurate as well. 2-3MOA is easy, even out to 300yd or more. If your barrel is good and you can shoot well, 1MOA is possible. About the only down side is the recoil. I use a PAST shoulder pad.

[Edward]

Hornady GP is a great bullet as is the lee REAL and as stated the S+W sized to 501 ,just do not get a slip fit if hunting ! Hiking thru them woods and the undersized slug can slip right back off your powder and that can be a disaster ,for target it"s not a problem /Ed

[BlackPowderLove]

Thank you everyone for the great comments. I have tried the Lee REAL 320 gr. and they did not perform worth a darn. Having chatted with a few other chaps that have tried them in their 1:24 twist, short barrels, I think this is the norm. I am really thinking something heavier and longer will stabilize better. I now have some cast boolets from the above accurate mold headed my way (YEAH!!) that I will try next. I made a .50 wad punch and have a pile of felt wads made from the brim trimmings of a heavy felt hat. Looking forward to some more testing!

[megasupermagnum]

With felt wads, you will want something bigger than 1/2" for your 50 caliber. 9/16" might be a good choice. I use 5/8" in my 54 calibers.

[arcticap]

Try shooting some paper patched bullets.

[Huvius]

Try shooting some paper patched bullets.

I’m thinking the very same thing.
Have a mold that drops a 500ish grain boolit that patches up to .498” which I’d like to try in a fast twist ML such as the Missouri River Hawken or in a rifle more along the lines of a ML match rifle.
I’d be happy to supply some if you’re interested in giving them a try.