Thanks JonB for the link. Read it this morning.
Thanks WV my rejection rate was about 90%. I am From Logan
Now after all the comments I am at about 20% of what I think a good bullet should be
Thanks JonB for the link. Read it this morning.
Thanks WV my rejection rate was about 90%. I am From Logan
Now after all the comments I am at about 20% of what I think a good bullet should be
As much as I like my NOE and MP molds, for a beginner, a guy could do a lot worse than to buy a Lee mold and lap it out a couple thousandths too big, then let it get hot, as Lees do so quickly, then drop frosted bullets with it. They might run a hair small but I can drop frosted bullets from a lee mold and I know they'll shoot well. Only thing you have to watch for is letting the mold get so hot that you have tears and smears on the sprue.
I have a lee mold .429 Tried several things with it and never did get any bullets that would shoot. inside a 14" group. Gave up on it for now.
I have a 2 cav. Lyman mold keith style. That's what I am working with now with much better results.
The mold with this material cast .430.5 up to .432 dia. much happier.
The thread JonB linked to is one that helped me a lot, though my applications don't require sorting boolits to the nearest fraction of a grain.
For me, the most helpful bit of advice out of that thread was avoiding shiney casts. With my alloy (95/3/2), molds (aluminum Accurate and MP 5 to 8 cav), equipment (PID controlled bottom pour) and technique, the temperature sweet spot giving me nigh on perfect boolits with virtually no rejects also gives me a uniform, light matte grey frosting on all the casts. Shiney boolits means fill out defects; heavily frosted boolits means undersized and underweight.
Keeping a regular cadence helps me avoid the over cooling/heating of the mold that causes the surface changes.
Thanks Kevin, I am getting better. I made 100 bullets yesterday and after I got settled down they turned out pretty good. I had 6 that I did not keep, the rest were between
252.4grs and 253.6 grs. That's the best I have ever done. I have them in two bunches divided evenly. Ill wait until tomorrow and check the hardness. they should be around 12bhn. I should get my new pot on Tuesday I will see how that works.
Thanks Dave
Consistent temp, consistent alloy and consistent methodology of pouring are the primary factors involved. Find a method that gives you what you are looking to get. Rinse and repeat.
Try making sure that you are ladling from the middle of the pot.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
gwpercle - GONRA is just an amateur compared to ya'll but (over nearly 60 years of casting with an olde bottom Pour Potter Pot and Single Cavity Mounds)
just never have all these weird problems! ???
Last edited by GONRA; 03-23-2020 at 06:47 PM.
Thanks for the comments, I have only been kicking this cast bullet making around for a year or so, I am willing to sponge off the knowledge of any one with some knowledge about the subject, methods used, Trials and tribulations.
My new Lyman 25# came yesterday. I am going to try casting today with it. I burned all the oil off.
Looking at that 25# pot after using the 10# I am going to need more material.
When I get it setup I will post a picture.
Dave
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
Tesla should have heeded his own and seen a doctor.
--an uknown
Larry the internet is full of wisdom with 60 yrs of experience you have a lot to offer.
You should not limit yourself to just Lyman manuals.
I have the 3rd edition, That's where I started but not where I will end.
With the internet you have to pick and choose what you think is good or correct information.
Pot temp is very important, the hotter the lead the more inconsistent the bullet weight due to the mold expanding and contracting.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |