Old style Weaver detachable rings

[Bazoo]

I'm thinking of changing my scope rings to the old style weaver rings that can't the crosshairs when tightened. In my looking, I see they are called "detachable".

So, are they detachable? Do they return to zero?

Or are they billed as detachable in the since that you can remove them to get to your irons in the case of a damaged scope?

Thanks
Bazoo

[tazman]

Basically, you dismount the rings and scope from the rifle as a unit to detach them.
They claim that you can return to within 1 inch at 100 yards. My experience has been a bit farther off than that but not wildly so.
Make sure the ring screws are on the same side of the rifle and pulled up solid when you mount the scope. That way you can return it to the same position.
I haven't done that often. When I did, it would have been close enough for a deer within 100-150 yards.

[Texas by God]

In my experience they hold zero just fine, I always make sure they are pushed forward in the slots before I tighten the clamps. Weaver bases and Weaver rings match up better than Weaver and Chinese. They are hell to line up the crosshairs( everyone says all my scopes are canted regardless of ring brand lol) but they work. I had a K4 post dialed for deer hunting and a K10 for targets with Weaver rings that I swapped out on my 30-30 bolt action and they both held zero. That’s my take on it I guess.

[beemer]

Weaver makes detachable rings with screws on both sides. I have both, the old style can sometimes be a pain. I have had them to go back with perfect zero as well as needing a bit of tweeking but not off enough to ruin a deer hunt if your spare is needed.

I prefer weaver style, I fool around with different scopes sometimes and there are a lot of options. Weaver ring are not that expensive so I can switch around. I have one rifle with a couple of scopes already set up for it, something that you can't easily do with turn in rings. People have different needs and the Weaver style fills mine.

Dave

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the info fellas. I had suspected that it might not be perfect but close enough for hunting.

At this point I'm looking at the rings more for their height, but the concept of being able to remove the scope for other scope or iron use could be pretty useful.

[Larry Gibson]

I do the same as Texas by God and they return to zero also.

It's not really that hard to get the reticle vertical with the bore. Just start out with the reticle slightly canted opposite the direction the rings tighten. Sometimes take a couple tries tightening and loosening the screws and tweaking the cant to get it right but it's not rocket science.

After mounting the scope and getting the reticle vertical then "detach" the scope and re-attach as Texas by God mentions.......then go zero the scope. It should return to zero then if put back on the same way as when attached.

[Bazoo]

Thanks Larry, I wouldn't have thought of removing the scope and reattaching it before zeroing it. I can see how that would allow everything to settle and then return to zero better.

[Drm50]

At one time almost all my rifles bought before 1980 had the old style Weaver rings and Scopes. It can be a PIA to put scope in rings if you don't do it often. You start to get the feel for the degree of roll and compensate for it. The four ring screws have to be taken down in pattern and torque. It's like changing a tire. You don't do one lug at a time, you try to draw it up even. Not that you get it perfect first try. It's a good system I've got several rifles and a 870 that have had same rings & scope since 60s. I don't buy them any more or Weaver scopes. Any replacements are Leupold. But due to selling off a good many rifles I ended up with a bunch of Weaver Rings/ bases and scopes. I have taken scope and rings off three guns intact to use sights. The 870 slug gun and a 742 Rem 30/06. The 870 was about 3"" out at 11 o'clock when I put scope back, the 742 was a little less. Not really a good comparison because neither gun was a tack driver. The 3rd was a 10/22 with standard 1" Weavers on the T9 base. ( not 22 rings for 3/8 grooved recievers) The Ruger would make a ragged hole with 10shots at 40yds.
When I put scope back on, it was close enough that if it was off I couldn't tell. I wouldn't hesitate to use them on any rifle. Never had a scope travel in old Weavers. Two years ago put Weavers on Marlin 1894 with K3 scope and its holding zero and approx 250 rds shot.

[nekshot]

I use alot of weaver mounts. I use a good scope for hunting-serious target shooting, then take off and put on a simmons that is set to shoot cast with the rifle. I have no complaints nor do I have any problem with their flip over sights. I find if i install them correctly they hold zero, for me any how. I also like the redfield flip over mounts.

[1hole]

I've listened to several intelligent men saying they didn't want Weaver's bases or rings because they were made of "aluminum" and might bend if the rig was dropped. I ask them if they have any such fears about their aluminum tube scopes; deer in the headlights time!

Weaver's rings and bases aren't "pretty" but they are hell for stout! Any impact that might bend the mounts would destroy a scope.

[Tom W.]

I found a set in the shed the other day, it was the ones that had screws on one side and a hook on the other. I put it on my 30/30 A.I. single shot NEF, made sure that the hammer would clear without hitting the scope, and tightened everything down. It gives me an excuse to shoot a little more due to the fact that I ain't got a clue as to where the boolits will hit now. My buddy has a collimator that will help get the thing close to the paper.....

[Bazoo]

I am mostly looking at them because in low, they are real low. I want to get my scope lower. I have leupold 2 piece bases, so I'm hoping that will not be a problem.

Oddly, I like the way the weaver rings look.

Which side do y'all put the attachment screw on? I've seen both. And, how tight do you get that screw?

What I've done in the past when mounting scopes, is snug the ring onto the base, all the way forward of course, then put the scope in the saddles and tighten the ring caps and bases together in a pattern. Now I'm wondering if I should tighten down the rings first and then tighten the scope?

[Tom W.]

I have put them both on the left side of the rifle, and tried them with one on the right and one on the left.
I put them on as tight as I can......

[Texas by God]

I tighten the clamp screws with a specially slotted quarter, as tight as I can by hand. Sometimes it takes pliers and a quarter to take them off. I’ve seen too many pinched scope tubes to ever over tighten rings again.

[Tenbender]

I take my scope off my black powder rifle every cleaning. Never had to re zero and kill a buck every year . Thats a good thing about Weaver rings and yes it is hard to square the hairs when mounting .

[Bazoo]

About how many degrees off do I start when mounting the scope?

[Texas by God]

5-10° would be a good start. Just snug one screw on each ring till you get it where you want it, then tighten them firm but not farmer or oilfield tight. You are right about them being the best to mount a scope LOW. I personally abhor a high mounted scope so my largest objective bell scopes are only 40mm.

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[Ernest]

I really like their low mounts because they get the scope close to the bore. I have tested them in years past and while I am not saying this is the only way to do it but his is the way I mount them.
1. lightly put the rings on the bases using a coin to tighten. That's how they were originally designed.
2. futz with the rings until you get your scope level or lose your mind. yes they are a pain in the *** to to get perfectly horizontal.
3. Dismount the rings and scope. put them back on pushing forward and down as you tighten them snugly but not so tight that you can't take them off with your special tool "a coin"
4. sight in the rifle.
5. Should you want to take the scope off when you replace it push down and forward and incrementally tighten the screws , front and back then front and back until you have them torqued by feel as tight as they originally were. I have done this multiple times with multiple rifles and scopes and never had a problem with POI shifting enough to really tell the difference.

[Drm50]

Years ago I made a spanner screwdriver for Weaver the clamp screws on rings. I used a 3/4" speed bore wood bit. Ground the leed and cutting edges of flat and filed notch in center. I used a bit with Hex shank. Put a cheap screw diver in vice and heated it with a torch until handle started to melt. Pulled it off and pushed the new blade into the handle while still soft. Since have made a couple more of different sizes for other makes of rings. Hex shaft keeps the bit from turning in handle after it cools and hardens.

[Bazoo]

Nice tip, thanks DRM.