This would make a great sticky!
I actually searched for this topic when i first started buying used molds.
This would make a great sticky!
I actually searched for this topic when i first started buying used molds.
it's in there, there is a lot of linked stuff like this in that sticky thread.
I am compiling stuff that will help there, the thread itself wanders around a bit with tips and a lube discussion.
and then on page 5 the links to stuff like this start.
very worthy of a sticky! nice work!
Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.
Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.
http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits
castboolits@gmail.com
I have an older Lyman 4 cavity of the vintage when *nutcracker* handles were in common use. I have no handles, but I want to put the mold into service. Can I assume that the *new style* (pliers type) Lyman handles designed for the 4-bangers will fit without issue?
Thanks much!
A bear, however hard he tries, grows tubby without exercise.
Just now came across this thread, and have a couple of things to offer which may be of help or usefulness:
First, post #8 mentions H & G handles and the molds attached to them. Info I have read indicates that the H & G handles were made individually for the molds that were fitted to them, and one couldn't count on any interchange between molds and handles working as desired. I have a couple of sets of these molds, and they came with handles. I've seen them sold separately on eBay, and figured that was done perhaps out of ignorance (thinking there was no problem with interchanging them with other molds or handles), or perhaps out of a desire to get a few more bucks????
Secondly, I had a problem, the reverse of the one stated in the bottom part of post #9 (a loose hinge on a set of Lyman handles), where I had a Lyman handle that was quite difficult to open or close, and no kind or amount of lubrication helped. I center-punched and drilled a hole in the hinge pin part way thru the pin, and kept at it, by stages, 'till it loosened up. There's still plenty of metal in the pin, and the hinge now works as it should. Maybe the handle's previous owner had applied that "tightening" hammer a bit too vigorously, but a gentle application of the drill bit relieved that stress?
Anyway, hope this is useful, on both points discussed.
Jess
Last edited by M99SavNut; 07-12-2013 at 10:32 PM.
Here are NOE's handles he sells. They are really good!
Attachment 76492
I have quite a few handles. Here are two Cramer handles with a SAECO in the middle. You can see they are quite different. I will suspect you will have to modify another make.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Is it just me? Or are most of the photos in this thread missing?
Unfortunately I could really use some help from the first post :-/
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |