I have been using this since the 80's. My can is from Le Clear Industries in Royal Oak MI and cost $1.50. I still have over half a can left. I have not used anything better.
I have been using this since the 80's. My can is from Le Clear Industries in Royal Oak MI and cost $1.50. I still have over half a can left. I have not used anything better.
Originally Posted by Swagerman
Lee's liquid alox may be better for that but I have started rubbing some Imperial on my first boolit into my Ly. lubisizer till things get lubed up a bit.
Bill
Another excellent case lube especially for case forming is the Rooster CFL-56.
I tried to buy some about 9 months ago from the gun show, no one had it but a guy had some Honaday Unique said it is about the same, well I bought a tub and wow, it works good and seems a little dab will do ya. Sounds just like the comments on the imperial wax. I'd recomend it if you can't find or run out of Imperial.
just an fyi
Dave
Another use of the Imperial wax.... for the dreaded RCBS primer pocket swager (removing the military crimp). Rub a little on the swagger button occasionaly and it keeps you from lifting the bench up tring to pull it off the swag.
Sounds like I should get me a can of that stuff. I've always used plain old brake assembly lube. (NOT brake FLUID...This is the stuff you use to assemble rubber parts into brake & clutch cylinders). My last bottle cost around $3.00 or so and it'll handle any sizing situation. a little messy. I squirt a stream onto a piece of foam laid inside of a foglamp lense. Just a touch does it. Napa sells it too. So, soon as they run out, I'll order some Imperial.
I'm getting towards the bottom of my third tin of ISDW in 10ish years? Case reforming, sizing but not for swaging. Got the AL for that.
I came, I read, I bought..............you're all right,its the best I've used yet.Thanks for the tip
Howdy OldBob, and welcome to the menagerie!
Whereabouts in NY? I spent a while in Watertown, actually nearer Theresa, in the late 80's, building Fort Drum.
Very nice folks and a LOT of history. My next to favorite bar in Watertown sported NY State liquor license # 1.
Regards,
WE
Curious myself as to your location. I live in Watertown NY and work on Ft. Drum as well. Shooting time is down due to the recent snows but I still get out to the Sportmen's Lodge on Co. Rte. 155 to sling lead.
Bruce
"Howdy OldBob, and welcome to the menagerie!
Whereabouts in NY? I spent a while in Watertown, actually nearer Theresa, in the late 80's, building Fort Drum.
Very nice folks and a LOT of history. My next to favorite bar in Watertown sported NY State liquor license # 1."
Hey CN1PNR, sorry about late reply,just got back here. You were right in my backyard, I live in the Alexandria Bay area, used to hunt the Fort Drum area back when it was Camp Drum. Noticing in this thread there are a lot of Northern NY'ers. The long cold Winters are made for casting boolits......
Bruce Drake, I do most of my shooting at Thousand Islands Sportsmans club, just North of Redwood. We got 100yd. covered rifle and pistol range and a 35 station Sporting Clays course. Membership is $30 first year and $20/ year after that, unlimited useage, sporting clays is 9:00 AM every Sat.and 2ed/4th Sundays. Come on down and shoot with us.
Last edited by OldBob; 12-18-2005 at 08:19 PM.
Hey, I grew up in watertown. Right on the main drag between dowtown and the park.
We should have our own local cast boolit shoot for northern NY folks.
I would host the first one. I live in Western NY between Roch and Buffalo.
David
Last edited by David R; 12-18-2005 at 09:47 PM.
Dean?
Mick?
Tpr?
We could rent a local clubhouse with a fireplace. Just open the doors and shoot at the 25 yard range. I think it goes to 50.
Bob,
I'll give you a call tonight reference the Thousand Islands Sportsmen Club.
David,
A cast bullet shoot might be interesting if we can ever get over this Lake Effect Snow. Let me know what we can do to get this get-together operating.
Bruce
I see some interest, I am going to start a new topic under competition.
David
Re the Hornady Unique lube, I tried some several years ago, and dang near got a case stuck in my die. HOWEVER, I can't help but wonder if that wasn't due to all the RCBS sticky goo that's been in that die for so long? Maybe if I cleaned all the old RCBS stuff out, it'd work? Anybody got any insight on this?
Haven't had any trouble going from RCBS sticky goo to Lee water soluable case sizing lube, but the Unique grabbed and squeaked, and made sizing a real chore. Was it operator error in not getting the old stuff out?
Blackwater,
I clean my sizing and seating dies regularly, usually just a dry qtip, but sometimes a larger swab with mineral spirits is needed. Sizing and bullet lubes do build up inside them over time, the newer ones less so than the older ones, but there's always some residue that gets crudded up. I have used the sticky goo and switched to the water soluble ones also, but any sizing lube eventually gets pushed up into and over the neck section, even if you aren't seeing the telltale shoulder dents from overlubing. Bullet lubes clog up the seater plugs - especially Liquid Alox, but harder lubes get shaved off and can build up, too, likewise rings of lead or gilding metal.
All kinds of stuff can get into them if they've been sitting idle for a while. This past summer I had a set of Lee .45ACP pistol dies in the red cylindrical box that was overhanging a bit off the back of the storage shelf in my shop. I grabbed it to use them and found that paper wasps had moved in and built condos. I plunked it down quick on my Sierra manual and brought it outside, then tipped it over with a broom handle to evict the tenants. After dark, I went out and they had moved out, so I cleaned it all out. I keep meaning to buy some flat 3 and 4 die boxes...
Last edited by versifier; 12-20-2005 at 12:35 AM.
Born OK the first time.
As far as the Hornady One shot lube, I didn't use enough and stuck an '06 case in the die. Bought a new die and switched to RCBS. A reloading buddy tells me I use too much sizing lube, but he has never stuck a case.
David
I used it for years. Get enough on the first case, once the die is lubricated good it works fine.Originally Posted by Blackwater
I bought a tin of ISW a few months ago based on the positive info on this site. Tried it out on some 30'06 and 375 H&H cases. Worked great and was easy to wipe off.
I just got done with 250, 450 Marlin cases and ran into some difficulty. I was applying just a real light coat of ISW to the case and was getting some squeaks and squeals from my protesting Hornady sizing die. Tore it apart and gave it a good cleaning and a little lube. Still some protests. I lubed the cases heavier and it helped a bunch. Well I must have lubed one case a bit light and pulled the lips off. This was easily remedied and on I went.
I remembered Felix (I think) mentioning lanolin. Since I have a pound jar I gave it a shot. I put a little dab, about half a pea sized, on my finger and went to work. That little dab was used for 50+ cases. With just barely a film on the cases they sized twice as easy as ISW. It wipes off just about the same too. Other than that faint barnyard smell, my hands were real soft too.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |