Worksharp sharpener

[jiandawg]

I was in the market for one of the WorkSharp sharpeners. I borrowed a KO and an original from a couple of friends to test them out for a bit. I think both are decent, but I ended up with the KO edition mainly because of the variable belt speed. Just seemed like it gave me better control over what I was sharpening.

[alamogunr]

I just bought the WorkSharp KO as a result of reading this thread. One question for users: It seems according to the directions that you should sharpen the blade on the right(belt moving down-CW) first and then on the left(belt moving up-CCW) to remove the burr. In other words, always finish up on the left(CCW). Is this correct?

I've never been satisfied with my results on a stone so thought this might be a solution.

[SSGOldfart]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

[44man]

OK, I want one and have enough points to get free. So please tell me if the KO is worth the price.
I used the WS and was happy so why should I spend more.

[alamogunr]

I got mine the same way(points). I had never used one but figured I wouldn't regret getting the top of the line when it didn't cost me anything. I also got a brass catcher for practicing with the semi-auto. I'm still learning.

[jcren]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

Yes, my Ken Onion does (i didn't see it at first, black and nearly flush) and someone said the basic did as well.

[edler7]

I just bought the WorkSharp KO as a result of reading this thread. One question for users: It seems according to the directions that you should sharpen the blade on the right(belt moving down-CW) first and then on the left(belt moving up-CCW) to remove the burr. In other words, always finish up on the left(CCW). Is this correct?

I've never been satisfied with my results on a stone so thought this might be a solution.

You should form a burr the length of the blade on each side. That indicates the bevel angle is set along the entire length.

I form a burr with the right guide, then switch to the left. The burr the right guide formed is removed, but there will be one on the other side of the blade from working it on the left guide. A pass or 2 back on the right guide will remove it. As you decrease belt grits (going from coarse to fine) you should still raise a burr, but it will become finer and harder to feel. I use a 10x magnifying loupe and see it rather than feel it, and also to tell when it is removed. You will also notice your edge becoming polished as you move through the grits.

After you set the bevel initially and go through the different belt grits, a resharpen should only take a couple minutes using the finest 1 or 2 belts you used initially. No need to go through all the grits, the coarsest 2 are used only to establish the initial bevel.

I sharpen my pocket knife at a 20 degree bevel and do not use the finest grit belt. I like my blade to have just a tiny bit of "tooth" to it. Kitchen knives get 17 degrees and all belts. I use a single page from the phone book to test sharpness. When the blade will glide through one with no drag, it's well past shaving sharp.

[DerekP Houston]

I am mighty tempted now seeing all these testimonies of success. I see they have a field version for ~25ish that would do well to sharpen all my pocket knives easily enough.

[Moonie]

Hey guys does the Work Sharp have a locking trigger? Kind of a necessary with one hand.

My original does yes.

[44man]

I like razor sharp but most butchers don't. They use a steel to SET the edge so it is like a microscopic saw.
To get to razor, you need the burrs, even a straight razor has a burr that is lapped on leather. I have put the red abrasive, can't remember the name, on leather strops--OH yeah, jewelers rouge. Stuff that is on crocus cloth. I have the powder.
When young I had hair on my legs and when sharpening broad heads and knives, I had big bare spots.
I have the Chefs Choice with diamond wheels and so does my friend. The Work Sharp he brought was much better and faster. He always brings his knives here, must have had 50 last time.
I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?

[C.F.Plinker]

The WorkSharp gives you a convex grind because of the belt flex. If you have a 1x30 belt sander you can get an assortment of belts through 1000 grit and a leather belt as well (the latter becomes a power strop) for the same or less than the basic WorkSharp. The belt sander has the advantage that it won't move around the bench which allows you to use both hands to guide the blade. You can get a flat grind going against the platen, a convex grind above the platen, and if you are really steady a concave grind on the upper pulley. The downside is that there are no blade guides so everything has to be sharpened freehand.

[DerekP Houston]

Thanks for the advice yall. I would love to get mine all back to razor sharp by hand, but quite frankly I just don't have the steady hands I thought I did and it eats into family time with all my existing hobbies. I'm gonna save my pennies and ask for one for christmas this year. I could sharpen friends/family knives at $5 a pop and earn my money back fairly quick around our neighborhood. I will keep using my stones on the already sharp ones to maintain the edge.

[edler7]

I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?

Ken Onion version: variable speed, wider / better belts, variable speed, better angle guide, variable speed, add-on blade grinding attachment capability, better motor.

Oh yeah, and variable speed.

[alamogunr]

With my limited use so far, the trigger stop has proved to be advantageous. Keeps me from going too fast too soon.

[44man]

OK, I will consider the KO. Much appreciated fellas.

[DerekP Houston]

So the field sharpener arrived yesterday and i tested it out on my old swiss army knife. It is *much* smaller than I would've thought based on the pictures but it works like a charm. I wouldn't say I got them razor sharp, but a definate edge back on my little pocket knives. With the small package I can actually keep it in my car with my other knife so Ill always have a reliable blade for boxes etc at work.

Considering the larger model for home use now, it will be on my christmas list for sure.

[jonp]

I like razor sharp but most butchers don't. They use a steel to SET the edge so it is like a microscopic saw.
To get to razor, you need the burrs, even a straight razor has a burr that is lapped on leather. I have put the red abrasive, can't remember the name, on leather strops--OH yeah, jewelers rouge. Stuff that is on crocus cloth. I have the powder.
When young I had hair on my legs and when sharpening broad heads and knives, I had big bare spots.
I have the Chefs Choice with diamond wheels and so does my friend. The Work Sharp he brought was much better and faster. He always brings his knives here, must have had 50 last time.
I still don't know if the KO is worth the extra money. Are we paying for a name?

Jewlers rouge on a piece of glass to finish the edge on wood chisels etc.

[hanleyfan]

I guess everyone is different, I had one of these things for 2 weeks and I follow instructions and watched some videos on it and I still can not get it to sharpen my knife like I can get it on a stone. to me this was a total waste of money.

[tommag]

After reading this, I bought the ko edition. It works well, and is fast. It occurs to me that sharpening in the field would be a problem, as I would have to overcome the convex grind to sharpen with a stone.

[LeadHead72]

hanleyfan, I also bought one some time ago and have been quite disappointed.