Lee PrecisionTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad Data
RotoMetals2Snyders JerkyRepackboxWideners
Inline Fabrication Reloading Everything
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 27

Thread: Resurrecting Dead Molds

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    sutherpride59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    525

    Resurrecting Dead Molds

    So just like it says in the title I have some molds that need to be brought back from the dead. My father-in-law recently passed away and left all of his casting equipment to me as he is the one who originally got me into bullet casting. Well unfortunately either some of the folks packing up his house or he himself somehow got these molds wet and they were stored wet for a few months till I PCSed recently and finally picked them up. Well the question is what's the best way to get the rust off these things without doing more harm than good. Admittedly a lot of the rust is just surface rust and is only on the outside of the blocks with very little rust on the inside of the molds. At least most of them anyway. There are about 40 of them total so I don't really think a light sanding by hand is going to be the most practical way of going about this. Is there something that I should soak them in? I remeber my grandfather once used a bath of lye mixed into water with a car battery charger on both ends to get rust off of railroad ties but I'm scared that might hurt more than help. Penetrating oil is just going to make the rust oily and the same with gun oil... The best idea I have come up with so far is to hit them up with a very thin bristled wire wheel, maybe a brass or bronze one. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    easternshore of va.
    Posts
    2,998
    No wire brushes !!!!!!!!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,948
    Don't use any wire wheel!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    easternshore of va.
    Posts
    2,998
    Sorry about the panic post above . I'm sure you will get a lot of good advice on chemicals and oils that will take care of the rust , and storage for after cleaning . I have recently saw molds for sale on eBay that have been wire brushed , what a shame .

  5. #5
    In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    S W Louisiana
    Posts
    295
    HI. I AM CLEANING UP MOLD BLOCKS now that got wet from a/c condensate drain plug up. I got me a 3.5 gal. pail of EVAPORUST rust from the local O'Riely auto parts store. Comes with basket inside. Clean molds to remove oil, grease with soap and water using a Nylon or Brass bristle brush. I used compressed air to dry afterwards. Put molds in basket and soak 1 or 2 days. Remove from dip and wash with water, dry with comp. air. Use nylon or brass brush on cavities and mating faces to clean up. Worked GREAT on my vintage H&G, Magma, Lyman/Ideal mold blocks. Note-- I generously coated all blocks waiting their turn to be cleaned with Kriol oil to stop the rusting process until I could clean them. I have had 100% success at saving them so far. Still have many to go. DO not use power wire brush! Be patience, work gently around cavities and mating faces. You should be able to save them.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    NE Kansas
    Posts
    2,459
    There are many threads on this topic and perhaps you can review which one best suits your needs.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/goog...&sa.x=0&sa.y=0

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    sutherpride59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    525
    I feel dumb I clearly didn't search hard enough, evaporust from autozone looks like what will get the job done right. Everyone agree with that?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    988
    Evaporust is some good stuff, somehow converts rust to carbon somehow. I never looked into the chemistry behind it but it does leave a black residue. I found a pair of channel locks in the back yard I had been looking for 6 months. Thick frosty type of rust all over it. A few hours in Evaporust and a quick brushing and you could never tell.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,670
    Evapor rust should do a good job. The nylon bristle brushes are also a big help. Tooth brushes work but the ones sold in gun shops are a little stiffer bristle. A few wood sticks can be handy for rubbing stubborn spots also. Popcycle sticks and bamboo skewers from the supermarket work good and are cheap. A little coarse wool or burlap also is handy for working stubborn spots over. I would clean with dish soap and water with a nylon bristle brush really work up a lather of soap rinse and dry well. hebn a soak in the evaporust and light brushing wiping with a nylon brush. Any stubborn areas can be worked on with a popcycle stick with a squared end lightly. Pay attention to corners and edges. Magnification helps here to see what you actually have. Dont forget to clean the vent lines and qtips for pin holes and such. A good cleaning again with soap and water maybe a light boiling in soap water even rinse and dry well quickly then oil or wax to perseve. Take your time and work slow. A piece of coarse wool material or burlap glued to a popcycle stick makes a good "scrubber" that does no damage

  10. #10
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    Check those ingredients.
    Most of that stuff uses phosphoric acid. I would not use it on the mating surface or the mold surface. On the outside yes.
    https://www.whatsinproducts.com/file...0Dissolver.pdf

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,355
    Try the Evaporust....I had never heard of it , I spotted some in Home Depot so it is readily available .
    For a quick method to halt rust , until you can treat with Evaporust , submerge moulds in Kerosene ...they will not rust any further. Kerosene should be available at Home Depot...I know Wally Mart has it.
    Good luck with the resurrections ....Gary

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    874
    Best stuff is evaporust. Non toxic, cleans in 24 hrs for heavy rusted pieces. Easy to find!
    Leadmelter

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    412
    Have not tried it with molds but works wonders on intricate precision machining parts is "electrolytic rust removal" it will only remove rust and nothing else. Look it up on net for detailed directions or if you can not find PM me and I will get a PDF for you. I have used it on the fine threads on micrometer that were rusted solid that had sentimental value. They work fine now. It will not remove pits but will remove all rust without damaging any solid metal.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master



    Echo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    4,603
    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Whittler View Post
    HI. I AM CLEANING UP MOLD BLOCKS now that got wet from a/c condensate drain plug up. I got me a 3.5 gal. pail of EVAPORUST rust from the local O'Riely auto parts store. Comes with basket inside. Clean molds to remove oil, grease with soap and water using a Nylon or Brass bristle brush. I used compressed air to dry afterwards. Put molds in basket and soak 1 or 2 days. Remove from dip and wash with water, dry with comp. air. Use nylon or brass brush on cavities and mating faces to clean up. Worked GREAT on my vintage H&G, Magma, Lyman/Ideal mold blocks. Note-- I generously coated all blocks waiting their turn to be cleaned with Kriol oil to stop the rusting process until I could clean them. I have had 100% success at saving them so far. Still have many to go. DO not use power wire brush! Be patience, work gently around cavities and mating faces. You should be able to save them.
    A Big Plus One for this. Evap-O-Rust is you friend. I keep a Mason jar 3/4 full for taking care of 2-cavity molds that have been neglected.
    Echo
    USAF Ret
    DPS, 2600
    NRA Benefactor
    O&U
    One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Orange, VA NOW
    Posts
    6,544
    I used evoporust several times on heavily rusted molds and have had nothing but success. It strips the rust off and does not damage the iron or steel underneath.

    I have a 311-291 that I was given that looked like a basket case but an overnight soaking followed by a good washing and drying with a hair dryer and it makes great boolits.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master


    kungfustyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    1,244
    Best thing is http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workshop-...0487/203247483 Metal Rescue. I did a bunch of molds from a fiends workshop that were rusted and saved most of them. All you have to do is let them soak then wash them off with cold water and brush with a tooth brush under running cold water. You will need to immediately heat them up and hit them with rim oil but it works! Hands down for me it was the best thing.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,941
    Evaporust is probably easiest, but electrolytic rust removal is as good as it gets. A quick and easy set up I have used several times:





    The trickle charger shown works over 24 - 48 hours on heavily rusted items, faster on light rust. A 10 amp charger does the same heavily rusted stuff overnight. The higher the amperage on the charger the faster it works, but the wires will need to be larger and the solution boils off so needs to be watched. Use a big enough container.

    Washing soda in water is the preferred solution, but baking soda works in a pinch. A couple tablespoons to the gallon is good.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

    My Straight Shooters thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter

    The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    outside of Sand Springs, N.E. OK
    Posts
    2,353
    maybe find a media blaster for the tougher ones and use or have them use the lightest and most gentle medium
    An armed man in a citizen.
    An unarmed man is a subject.
    A disarmed man is a slave.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Cochrane Ont
    Posts
    2,430
    I wet tumbled this mold, each half separate for 8 hour's




  20. #20
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    81
    White vinegar will also take care of the rust. Soak for a day or so I use it to clean rust off of cast iron frying pans. Thats probably the active ingredient for vaper rust.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check