That was going to be my recommendation as well. It keeps my little South Bend 9A chugging along nice and happy.Originally Posted by Char-Gar
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That was going to be my recommendation as well. It keeps my little South Bend 9A chugging along nice and happy.
Hi,
Yes, of course, for the bike I use what is recommended! (wet clutch!)
For the air compressor and the machinery....racing oil!
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Randy,
could you be a bit more specific? there seems be be a few different options from Amsoil.
AMSOIL Z-ROD® 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
AMSOIL DOMINATOR® 15W-50 Racing Oil
AMSOIL Premium Protection 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil
and the Amsoil "Series 2000" synthetic 20w50 racing oil, I wasn't able to find out too much about it, except for this PDF
http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g1213TRO.pdf
I do like Amsoil and I have the Dominator 2 cycle racing oil...I use on sprue plates.
thanks,
Jon
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
"I do like Amsoil and I have the Dominator 2 cycle racing oil...I use on sprue plates.
thanks,
Jon"
sorry for the off topic... you don't have to answer.
I have to admit I would not know what to do with oil on sprue plates. What problem does that fix or maybe what kind of mould set-up that I do not have needs lube?
Chill Wills
It prevents lead alloy from smearing and building up on the sprue plate and/or the top of the mold, on aluminum molds lead alloy build up can cause galling.
How to apply it...
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...BullPlate-too)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
OK - thank you. I have never tried oil products inside the mold (intentionally) but heard and forgotten about virtues of 2-cycle oil. The only oil I have gotten in the cavities, by mistake, made wrinkly sound like a complement.
Good info to have in the bag of tricks! ......and Sorry - OT over.
I went to rural king and bought their brand of non detergent oil.
.............Two kinds of oil used with a manual lathe. Vactra #3 goes on the ways, and 20wt spindle oil goes on the GC box, and headstock gear spindles. Pretty simple. Oil it before each use, or every 6 hours. WHichever comes first.
...............Buckshot
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Here's some pics of the oil I use. I've had this bottle for a while so they may have something new out now. I also include a pic of the tank being drained and you can see the white liquid coming out. All the red stuff in the pail is Amsoil 20-50 Racing Oil which floats to the top,,,,not rust!
This stuff sticks to everything and all the oil that get blown by the compressor rings is what ends up coating the inside of the tank, some obviously makes it out the bottom of the tank as well,,, which is a good thing!
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Randy, so it's the series 2000. OK thanks.
Jon
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Just can't find any 20wt non detergent oil here.
Even 30wt is a little hard to find.
I've decided to try 0w-20 synthetic automotive oil.
We got sunshine all year long, but don't have 20wt non detergent oil.
How about you use the recommended 20wt non detergent maybe 30wt as recommended. I've seen many high HP electric motors running 30wt non detergent around the clock in heavy industry.
The non-detergent is basically to minimize foaming so gears under heavy load have no (minimal) air bubbles on contact surface that would increase wear and shearing force .Missed your last post. 0-20w still has detergent...
Lathe circulating oil is non detergent because it does not hold metal particals and other debris in suspension . Because the oil is unfiltered it needs too be able to drop the material out of circulation to keep from continually running it threw the bearings and gears
You use an oil with a detergent in filtered applications to hold metal particals and such debri in suspension to be removed by the filter
it has nothing to do with foaming ... anti foam agents are a completely differant additive
fg-machine has it correct. MSC ships everywhere http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/?...il&hdrsrh=true
This is an old Craftsman lathe.
The bearing oiling system is a drip/loss system.
No oil cup or bath.
Oil drips down to the bearing to keep it lubed.
Have to add oil everytime the lathe is used.
I have a little pan to catch the oil. I don't reuse it in the lathe.
Kind of a strange system, but it's been working since it was made in around 1943.
Isn't detergent oil also made to hold moisture????
How often should one change the oil in the lathe? I have a Clausing Colchester that has been in my possession for 20 years and I have yet to change the oil. It gets used on average 8-10 hrs/week.
Don't be fooled by people recommending motor oils - the working surfaces of your lathe will never reach 150° F and if it does then you have more serious problems!
Vactra #2 is the gold standard - I also use Vactra #1 on my manual machine ways in winter when the shop is only 44-62° F.
MSCdirect.com does ship everywhere - However for you minimal needs I would grab a box of donuts and visit a local Machine shop and beg to buy a quart. (bring your own bottle as most shops buy in 5 gal buckets or 55gal drums.)
Shell oil makes an equivelant if you like supporting the Saudi's.
Oil does not "wear out" it usually has to be changed when the level of contaminants gets in the way of it lubricating properties. Oil in higher temp environments will cook off certain additives and some of the lighter aromatic elements of the blend over time. Most oils which work below 150° F in an enclosed environment will outlast the lifespan of there owners. I know of a Cincinnati Mill made in 1917 that is still running the original factory installed oil, still clean and nearly clear. (It is believed that the oil in that machine may be whale blubber oil.)
Last edited by ProfGAB101; 08-13-2016 at 10:12 PM.
I put Mobil DTE 24 Light hydraulic oil in my 12x36 Precision Mathews lathe.
I don't know anything about oil and blindly follow what I read.
Bob's your oil guy website has convinced me I will never know enough about oil.
And then I am way out in the sagebrush, a dull 1/2" drill is not cutting metal, and some cowboy pours Magic Marvel Mystery oil on it.... and it starts cutting.
My 1958 South Bend manual oil recommendations translate to Mobil Velocite No. 6 in oil cups, spindle etc and Mobil Vactra No. 2 on the ways.
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