Possible solution for .224 casting problem

[Rickshaw]

It seems, from what I've read that casting for smaller calibers can be problematic.....
keeping mould temp up for a number of reasons, aluminum moulds at the top of the list.....what if you were to have a custom mould that alternated two different boolits.
As an example: a .452 200 gr. SWC and your .224 68 gr. The .452 would help stabilize mould temp and the complications for your .224 would be history. What do you think.

[Butchman205]

Sounds like a logical fix...in theory a good idea.


-Butchman

[Rich22]

Only issue I can see is usually there will be an alloy difference in what someone uses for 45 cal 50 cal etc and what they use for .224, much softer for the low pressure low velocity 45 and lino or nearly lino hardness for .224

[melloairman]

I cast a lot of .250 in 2 cavity LBT aluminum molds and have no problems . But LBT molds have a one of a kind cutter which could be why .Marvin

[Mk42gunner]

The only .224 mold I have cast with is the Lyman 225438, and once I got going with it I didn't have any problems. I did only use the one mold though.

Robert

[PaulG67]

Seems like a solution to a non existent problem. As you gain experience with a mold any problems will go away.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Back in the late 60's when I was in my teens, I cast 22's with a Lyman 225415 mold. NO adult assistance, NO ONE advising. Using a Lyman dipper and Coleman stove I could cast bullets that went under 1.5" (100 yards) in a Savage 219 .22 Hornet. Technique and practice. The little bullets just take a little more attention to detail.

[.22-10-45]

"it seems from what I've read"... Until you actually try casting .22's yourself..you won't really know for sure. I have no problem casting .22 bullets from 40 thru 60grs..from a soft 20-1 tin/lead alloy for the plain-base 40grs. to a diluted Steriotype alloy..close to the old Lyman #2 in hardness. My moulds are iron..both Ideal/Lyman & custom nose-pour. No problem whatsoever keeping temp up..problem is overheating. I use a big copper block & rest cutter on it for a few sec. to bring heat down for a nice cuttoff.

[Iowa Fox]

Never had a problem with 22s, that's from the 37 grn Noe to the bigger Lyman steel molds. I use about a 4" piece of lead free solder with 10lbs of CO wheel weights for most.

[Harter66]

I'm running an alloy of 75/25 WW to 1-20 for a NOE 225-55 fp 4C AL . It can be fussy getting it hot ,mostly I have trouble with the sprue plate cooling. Once that was conquered and sorted out turning out 5 lbs of them is scoop,pour 1,2,3,4 ,tap slap, dump ,scoop, pour 4,3,2,1, tap ,slap dump repeat counting 1 aligator 2 aligator 3 aligator 4 aligator between tap (setting down the ladle ) and slapping the sprue open.

Of course I only shoot a rifle that shoots 2 1/2 -3" with factory ammo so 2" is good enough for me in the volume rifle . The precision rifle matches it's jacketed counterparts plus 13 gr of bullet minus 700 fps into sub 1.5 inch groups . With 98% of rejects being cold mould or sprue plate .

[country gent]

WHat might be Ideal is a heavy .30 or slightly larger rifle cal bullet on each side of the .22 cal bullet. In this way the heat would be on each side of the 22 cal generating an even temp thru the blocks. Ive cast 22s with the rcbs mould and had few problems once up to temp. Another plus would be smaller blocks to as tall or thick to reduce the mmass needed to heat up.

[gwpercle]

Get a good mould , like one from NOE , and start casting...with a suitable alloy , proper mould temperature and alloy temperature , you just might find you don't have a problem at all.

[MT Gianni]

If you finish your pour by slowly emptying your ladle over the mold you have no problem.

[Electric88]

Get a good mould , like one from NOE , and start casting...with a suitable alloy , proper mould temperature and alloy temperature , you just might find you don't have a problem at all.

Is there a certain mold you would recommend? I have been kicking around the idea of casting for the AR, but haven't took the plunge yet. I assume gas checking and powdercoating are both necessary...

[Rickshaw]

I would prefer to just powdercoat, if possible. Hoping for more guys to chime in. In my original post I was referring to aluminum moulds. I understand brass moulds transfer heat more slowly.