I "ruinted" myself with CCI large pistola primers from Hitech too...
Hey Blackwater- how's that WB rascal doin'?
I "ruinted" myself with CCI large pistola primers from Hitech too...
Hey Blackwater- how's that WB rascal doin'?
Don't know, Pat. Haven't heard much from him lately. Maybe he's found a girlfriend?
Blackwater,
One thing I have noticed with 820. The granules, balls, are so fine that if your pistol has a large cylinder to barrel gap, you can end up with powder granules finding their way into the chambers of the unfired rounds quite a ways up the case. Then when fired it can leave indentations in the brass. If this happens to you as it did to me, don't be as diligent in cleaning the cylinder face and this gap will shrink some. My problem went away.
ammohead
Thanks, ammohead. This is exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for. Does that unburned powder go away if you load hotter? I know some powders can be dirty until you get them into their preferred burning range, and wonder if this is true of that one?
Originally Posted by BlueMoon
..........Last 4895 I bought was new pdn @ $80/8lb. On the same order a buddy bought PD @ $72/8lb and danged if I could see any difference. It's extruded powder btw. Most the milsurp is ball as Olin runs the plant in Baraboo, Wisc.
The 4895 was a touch slower then canister grade IMR. Don't know about H4895, but you can safely use IMR data out of the book and adjust up if needed (or you have the room ).
BTW, all Bartlett has left is 1972 PD 4895 and it's close to gone, bummer.
............Buckshot
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Thanks for the info.
Is that going to be it for the Surp powder? I heard the guv won't allow it's sale anymore along with components?
Regards
[QUOTE=PatMarlin]I "ruinted" myself with CCI large pistola primers from Hitech too...
I was tempted by the primers but I mostly need standard large rifle along with large pistol and I don't care for CCI200s in some powder combinations and for large pistol I've been using either WW or RP and don't worry about magnum or not. I wish he had another brand.
My two jugs arrived just fine and both say military surplus gunpowder. Both looked and smelled good and everything was hunky-dory.
Bill
Originally Posted by ammohead
I've got a GP100 with a large gap but I plan to use mag primers with the WC820 and if that don't work, buy some small rifle primers to try.
Bill
296 does the same thing. I got an awful powder burn from my 357 Resting on my off hand (stupid). Those tiny granuals are really moving, they got penatration in my skin. Never did that again.
David
Could someone help me on this issue.I've decided to try the milsurp powder.(I only live 60 mi. from GI Brass).Lots of visits soon to Owensboro Ky! Where would i get info on cross referencing milsurp powder to the over the counter powders?Will mostly be used in big bore handguns and rifles.Thanks for directing me in the right direction
..............Well first of all, welcome to the board! There are a LOT of surplus users here. As a rule, the Surplus dealer will have " Use Like " data they suggest. I'd like to add to their use like suggestion. That would be to use a light book load for the comparison powder, and also a light bullet or Boolit.
Over the years there have been lots of WC852 (NLA), 4895 and WC820 where using the faster lots in heavy or heavier loads could get one into trouble. Even if the seller says that the surplus is from a familiar outfit normally dealing in canister stuff, and is a direct cross with XYZ, still play it safe and load a few lighter book loads to test for sure.
.................Buckshot
Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always
Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.
"The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."
Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance
I've only used my WC820 (a pulldown lot comparable to AA #9) in full power loads in .44 Magnum and find it very clean burning there.
I learned nearly 30 years ago to keep skin far away from revolver cylinder gaps. Got my Walker replica jammed with a burst percussion cap between the cylinder and recoil shield, and figured the easiest way to deal with it was to assist the cylinder rotation with my left hand as I cocked it with the right, pointed in a safe direction. Just as I got it cocked, but not quite latched in the sear notch, my thumb slipped and it fired. My left index finger went numb like I'd hit it with a hammer, and was blackened. I had three particles of half-burned FFFg embedded in the crease at the last knuckle, and thirty years later I still have a black dot tattoo from one of them.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |