Delete please
Delete please
Last edited by jeep421; 01-25-2016 at 03:15 PM.
so your saying you still have rust? carding is an action.
Harbor Freight sells the 3 pack toothbrush set: plastic/brass/SS for like $2
Start at the beginning. I'm going to assume a hot blue. Get some Coke, Mt. Dew, some other soda. Soak the parts good and scrub with an old toothbrush, that will remove any active bluing salts. Then neutralize with baking soda. Dry, then oil.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
fortuitous post, about Mark Lee's product specifically. Has anyone ever used Mark Lee's product, gotten a dark and deep lovely color after bluing, neutralize with baking soda and oil, then let sit for a couple months and end up with the color lightening or losing uniformity? Or have your finishes always been as good looking as the moment you finish the last cycle, neutralize, and oil up.
Why do you neutralize with anything? The last step in rust bluing it to boil. Boiling negates any possibility of acid remaining. It is all that is needed other than a final carding and oil.
I agree with swheeler, it sounds as though you did not strip this action down to its fundamental parts. That should always be done.
If the bluing fades, that tells you that you quit the process too soon. Many quit when they get some color, but to get a deep, rich blue, you have to keep at it several coats after you begin to get color. That's the "secret" to it.
I used liquid rust blue. You heat up, apply, the. Boil, take the card off. I already neutralized the blueing. The steel wool took of the carding. But a small layer of carding got layered up over the and developed a film.
Jeep, that doesn't make any sense, carding is a verb, but if you mean the iron oxides that are carded off as black powder, then you can't "layer up" over that because there would be no steel over it to oxidize.
Apply your bluing solution, let it rust, then boil, card and repeat until done.
Delete
Last edited by jeep421; 01-25-2016 at 03:16 PM.
Carding means to get the surface crud off to the blueing. The stuff from salts is not card. Inside actions and bolts still need carded if hot blued.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Rust bluing is not the Hot casuistic blue Waksupi is talking about. I have hot caustic blue several 100 thousand barrels plus whole guns. That stuff is bad JUJU on bare skin. We kept a bottle of vinegar in the bluing room for splashes and other contact. We also had several Aloe plants in the office for after contact help.
The rust blues are not like that, splashes when carding under water [the only way to card IMHO] do nothing bad it seems. Carding dry with a wheel wear total respiratory gear and eye protection.
interesting. card underwater. Why? how does that improve the finish?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |