Dry graphite lube

[str8shot426]

I have seen and read so many ideas and techniques on this forum. This is a great thing and thank you, but someone has to be the first to try something new. I have had luck smoking molds but no luck with sprue lubing. I found a product that works well for both. Graphite is not much more than pure carbon ( chemistry gurus help me out) CRC makes a dry graphite lube that sprays on wet. The carrier of the graphite powder flashes off very quickly leaving a thin film of graphite.

Here it is
First mold I tried it on was a lee 2 cavity for obvious reasons$. Coated the cavities, mold faces, top of mold block and top and bottom of the sprue plate.
What I discovered, no galling, sprues fall off with ease, and boolits fall out with little or no tapping. Give it a try, it works great.

Jim

[glockmeister]

Jim, where did you locate that graphite lube. Appreciate the help and the testing. take care, John.

[rancher1913]

how much does it shrink the mold? have you sized and shot any yet? sounds interesting.

[dragon813gt]

There a bunch of companies that make the same type of lube. I have one from the makers of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. They might be the same company for all I know. I use it on presses and it works great. Makes a mess when spraying it so be aware.

[str8shot426]

Got it a Napa auto parts for something else. I cannot see a measurable difference with my equipment.
It's really not a coating it's more of a film.

[bangerjim]

Graphite and moly usually make a real big mess! Great for door locks and sliding things but I did not like it in mold cavities. Lead on your hands is bad enough.

And if you ever want to PC any of your boolits, they will not coat well at all. Been there...done that. Graphite and moly kill static.

And TFE-based "dry" sprays are a no-no too as TFE above 450F out gasses with potentially dangerous fumes. Do a search if you do not believe it.

Best thing I have found for a mold release.......is to have a good mold that properly tuned so boolits drop out on their own......no lube needed.

banger

[str8shot426]

Bangerjim

I do believe you.
This is not Teflon (PTFE) based.
It's rated at 850 degrees constant, 1000 degrees intermittent.
I don't powder coat.

[melloairman]

I use the dry moly on the top of my molds and the bottom of the cutter . Good to know that this works as well . I could be wrong but I think the moly takes even a higher temp . I never use a mold with out using it now and it sure makes cleaning the mold easy . Marvin

[Maven]

I used to be a firm believer in a dry graphite film on my molds, but later found it to be a problem (castings were a tad undersize). It does help control rust on iron molds and makes cutting sprues a bit easier when applied to the sprue plate. NAPA still sells it (used to be DGF 1-2-3). It also helps control oxide build up on a clean electric furnace and dipper, but you have to reapply it fairly often, especially on the dipper.

[bedbugbilly]

Jim - interesting. I'm just curious . . . do you have any idea of how many casts you'd get before you'd have to "re=apply" (if you'd have to?).

I have a mold that drops heavy and doesn't drop from the cavities well all for the time in spite of "tuning" the old up some, making sure no burrs, etc. Since it drops heavy, I might give that a try for kicks just to see how it would work (I don't powder coat).

[str8shot426]

I cast 150 or so and the lube grooves are starting to show some aluminum shine. The faces are wearing off a bit also.