Anyone else here load 357 Mag more like a 38 special? That's what I use for target practice. Then when I want a full magnum load I usually just buy a box, self defense load, etc.
-sailsguy
Anyone else here load 357 Mag more like a 38 special? That's what I use for target practice. Then when I want a full magnum load I usually just buy a box, self defense load, etc.
-sailsguy
I run everything from Red Dot, Unique, Blue Dot to 2400, so I don't max out, but I get close. I have some mild loads. Any of them will work well for social work, I don't buy loaded ammunition. I load my own, regardless of the purpose.
Sure. 99% of the boolits I shoot in mine are 360640's at 1060 fps using Unique.
Working on the same myself. Short snub 357 magnum with 38 +P equivalent handloads are my thoughts. Need to do some chronograph work to see where I'm at with the quicker powders.
For plinking loads I use Trailboss, for all else 4227 or 2400.
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With a 146 or 158 grain boolit at about 1,000 fps (my most used loads) in the 357 I have been getting good results with 231 lately. It does have a bit more muzzle flash than other powders at that velocity, but accuracy and consistency is great.
Keep your powder dry,
Scharf
I run mine at 38 spec +p levels. I can shoot all day long and it still pops pretty loud.
sailsguy,
I use Bullseye and Red Dot with commercial 125 grain cast bullets for practice using .357 cases. Since there is usually very little .357 data in the loading manuals for these powders and bullet weight, I use .38 Special data and start with a load that is about midway between minimum and maximum. I have, on occasion, slightly exceeded the .38 Special maximum charge when searching for an accurate load in a particular revolver but usually don't need to get that high before hitting a sweet spot. I can usually find a load that will get groups (average of five, five shot groups Ransom Rest) that will run 1.0 to 1.5 inches at 25 yards.
Gus Youmans
In my GP100 I use what ever brass I have prep'd up 38spl or 357mag. My boolits are all powder coated so no worrys about exposed lube.When the 357 brass begins to wear where it's been crimped I just trim it back a little and reload them. I always deprime in a separate step before cleaning and discard the brass when I feel the primers getting loose. Only problem I can see with loading 357 light would be if you used a powder that was much to slow, it would burn poorly and you'd have a mess to clean up. Give TiteGroup a try, 4gr and up in 357 Very clean burn. Gp
Try Red Dot 5.0 gr. with a 140-160 gr. boolit in .357, I find it hard to beat. It's @ 1000 fps.
The Lyman #358429 at 1000 FPS is a useful velocity range for taking small and medium game and varmints. The pressures required to achieve this performance level are higher than I want to expose my Colt or S&W 38 Specials to, so I put the loads up in 357 Magnum brass and have no worries about straining or bending a good revolver. Herco is my usual fuel for these loads, using standard priming (CCI 500 mostly).
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Way back when, I shot a great many of Lee's 357-150SWCHP's over 8.0 gr. Unique, which was my usual field load, and for just plinking or other utility use, I used 5.0-5.5 gr. 700X for a somewhat milder load. Not a whole lot of difference in accuracy, but the 700X load was just a mite quieter, though not by enough to matter or let me shoot without muffs. For light loads, I used 700X and 148 gr. Speer HBWC's, and that was my match load, too. I tried a number of different powders, and those are what I wound up staying with in my gun.
Edited to add: That 8.0 gr. Unique load had enough recoil to help teach me how to handle the gun rapidly and accurately, and saved me some money over the slower burning powders to be worth it to a young and budding shooter who really wanted to become better back then. Those loads served their purpose, but it takes experimentation to find what works for you and fits your budget too. Just part of the joy and privilege of shooting and loading and casting.
Any lab tested .38 Special +P load from a current manual can be safely assembled in .357 brass and produce a satisfactory result.
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Sure do. A couple grains of W231 under a MP 359125 makes for a nice accurate load. But I don't buy factory ammo when I want to shoot magnum level loads. That's what H110/W296 is for
Thanks for the info. Will try.
sailsguy
For the past 40 years all my .38/.357 loads have all been made with Bullseye for light plinking. Unique for mid range stuff and 2400 for mid to hot loads.
I do have a friend who swears by HP38 that he buys by the keg.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |