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Thread: Am I paranoid? Boolit pic.

  1. #41
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Tyler, Texas
    Posts
    31
    Ron,
    Good tip. Thanks.

    1Iron

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    they look fine to me id just shoot em .if they shoot well that's what matters at the end of the day

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master
    Shiloh's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Upper Midwest
    Posts
    6,769
    I would think twice about shooting those.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  4. #44
    Boolit Mold Ivan77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Church point
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    1
    Oh if yall have an iPhone/pad just hold the number 0 and the ° symbol pops up.

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    56
    You mentioned your ingots look frosty.

    If you dump them while still quite hot in a metal bowl or non-flat surface, are they prone to cracking? After cracking do they leave some "sand"? If so, that's the hallmark of a high (relative to tin content) antimony alloy. My clip on wheel weights do that all the time and look like they have a sand-blasted appearance. If you cast boolits straight from that alloy with no added pure or tin and cut the sprue too soon, it will not cut sharply and will leave a dimple in the base of the boolit, as well as leaving that "sand". That, along with frosting, is an indication that your mold temp may be a little high OR that you're cutting your sprue too soon.

    As a side note, purple/blue ingots typically indicate pure (or very close to) lead ingots cast hot. Also look for a scaly surface on the air side of the ingots for colder-cast pure ingots. The scaly look will be like the sugar glaze on a cold donut.

    Zinc will have a frothy "foam", often called oatmeal on top. This appears as low as 0.3% by weight zinc. High zinc alloys (meaning noticable amounts of zinc) need to cast hotter, and the crud won't disappear until the lot temp is around 750 or 800. The crud can be reduced somewhat by adding sawdust on top. Zinc/lead alloys will form a "skin" when pouring from a bottom-pour spout that forms a tube while casting, almost like a hose. It will "inflate" during casting and go flat after the pour has stopped. The sprue will be a LOT harder to break and when dumped into a metal bowl will have a high-pitched ring to it similar to a dropped penny, versus the thud from regular lead.
    Last edited by BenW; 05-12-2015 at 09:16 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check