Just finished my first mold!

[websterz]

Well, after making up a few dummy cartridges I do not believe this bullet is going to work. In order to get them to plunk the OAL is dangerously short. 1.01" to be precise. That's in the range of .100" too short. I'm going to consider this mold a learning exercise and redesign the bullet. The flat point is just too big, and that's probably why no one else has done it. I shaved the top of the mold down to reduce the bullet weight and it comes in right at 145 grains now. I believe my only option is to add more nose taper so I can seat them longer and get the case volume up to a safe range. Over the last 46 years I've grown rather fond of my hands and have no desire to blow one of them off.

[websterz]

And for those that have asked, I will try to shoot some video. I'll have to work up some way of mounting my phone on a tripod as it's the only video cam I have.

[btroj]

Even a series of still photos to show the process.

[MOcaster]

That's a really pretty mold! Good job!

[geargnasher]

I made the same mistake when designing a mould once, after a few cylinder-fulls the light carbon fouling in the cylinder throats made chambering difficult to impossible. Lesson learned, I now use bullets with the appropriate nose taper and clearance. But now you can turn that mould into a .45 caliber or something if you wish, and have worked out a fine method to make anything you like. I admire your independence and skills.

Gear

[rbertalotto]

In order to get them to plunk the OAL is dangerously short. 1.01" to be precise. That's in the range of .100" too short.

I'm totally lost here. What is "PLUNK"? Why is the OAL a concern other than possibly in a lever action or other self feeding firearm.

[websterz]

The plunk test is used for rimless semi-auto calibers to insure that the round will fully seat in the chamber without the projectile striking the rifling and preventing the firearm from going fully into battery. The loaded round needs to drop freely into the chamber and then drop out just as freely. The issue with my design is that the projectile has to be seated too deeply into the case for it to fully chamber. This drastically reduces the interior case volume and will cause a major rise in pressure when fired.

[Beerd]

so it's not for a revolver?
..

[bangerjim]

Good looking work. What is your estimate of man-hours it took to make the cavity "cherry" and the complete mold start to finish?

banger

[websterz]

so it's not for a revolver?
..

No, this particular boolit was intended for a 9mm. I didn't really think the design thru before I started. It chambered just fine, it's just way too short when loaded.

[websterz]

Good looking work. What is your estimate of man-hours it took to make the cavity "cherry" and the complete mold start to finish?

banger

I probably had 45 minutes in the form tool start to finish. With the prep work on the mold blocks, making the pins and the actual lathe work cutting the cavities I probably had another 5 hours. Then I spent maybe ten minutes making a flat seating pin to go in the bullet seating die. I don't keep really close tabs on my time in the shop. I'm having so much fun the time seems to fly by! I'll keep better track of my time on the next one for you.

[tazman]

That boolit would probably work well in a 38 special. You might try it there.

[websterz]

If I had one.

[bangerjim]

I probably had 45 minutes in the form tool start to finish. With the prep work on the mold blocks, making the pins and the actual lathe work cutting the cavities I probably had another 5 hours. Then I spent maybe ten minutes making a flat seating pin to go in the bullet seating die. I don't keep really close tabs on my time in the shop. I'm having so much fun the time seems to fly by! I'll keep better track of my time on the next one for you.

I'm the same way in the shop. Time's fun when your killing flies.........er.....sumpin' like that!

I have been thinking of making some molds and just wondered how long you spent. As with any project, the 1st one always takes the most R&D and fiddlin around time.

Good work!

banger

[websterz]

One shortcut I've found is to make the alignment pins out of bolts. I use grade 5 3/8-16. It's really easy to drill the female pin with a 60° center drill and cut the male with a 60° tool. Once I have the pins where I want them I lock them in place with 8-32 set screws and cut the bolt heads off.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

FINALLY, someone who flycut the vent lines the correct direction! Good job!

Gear

The blocks fit my vise better that direction. LOL

Just thinking out loud here...
Gear, do you suppose that's the same rational that some other mold makers (who should know better), decide which direction to fly cut the vent lines ?

[huntrick64]

That's a purdy mold!

[sparky45]

That would be ideal, if it had NO lube groove at all. Perfect for Powder Coating.

[websterz]

That's a purdy mold!

I see you're in north central Oklahoma. Where abouts? I'm in Ponca City.

[sparky45]

Hey Websterz; I'm about 80 miles to the northeast of you in rural Sedan KS. Visit Kaw much?