New guy---Need mold help

[luky-dude]

Been reading and getting my equipment together for the last 8 to 10 months.Have done two casting sessions now and have a few questions. My Accurate 358 125 E got about 1500-2000 out, runs good no questions. My Accurate 453 200H got about 2000 out and when I quit I see there was lead sticking to the mold halfs and I had the fins on some bullets. What causes this? Do I need to tap the the alinement pin in? Use a metal punch or a block of wood and a hammer? How do you clean off the lead? Can I just use Hoppes and a nylon brush and clean the mold again with simple green? My Noe 452 230 RF got out about 500 but it was sticking some to when I opened it but no lead sticking to the halfs. Do I need to tap those pins in also. Bullets will stick to one side of mold not the hp pins when I think I'm getting the mold to hot as I can get frosted bullets with this HP mold. I let it cool a little and they drop better, is this right? Oh I guess all my bullets were are a little frosted, I'm learning to slow down a little. This is with a RCBS pro pot at 650 to 700 on a RCBS thermomter and cww for lead. I think thats it for now. Thanks for your help I have learned alot here already

[TomAM]

Lead on the mold block faces happens when the mold is opened a bit too early and a still slightly liquid boolit bounces off the face while falling out. It is easily removed with a small rag or Qtip while casting. This method cannot be used on a cold mold, so be ready to remove it the moment that you notice it. I keep a box of Qtips nearby.

Before even thinking about adjusting alignment pins, be absolutely positive that both block faces are completely clean and so closing completely.

For the NOE mold, did you do the oven treatment that they recommend? Don't do this with my molds because my pins are tapered and so do not need it.

[luky-dude]

Thanks Tom. I won't mess with any of the pins. These are alu. 5 and 4 hole molds. I did not notice it in the 453 till it was a pencil lead size in about 4 different places,and it is not moving. Did about 1000 with the 358 today and stopped because bullets were starting to stick and scene it was starting to build on a few small dot size places also. Will just slowing down more stop this? I saw in a sticky that a guy used knoil to remove this. Should I try that--on a cold mold???

[SwedeNelson]

On the NOE mould
Yes - running a RG mould (or any mould) to hot can make it "sticky"
Slow down a little and find the "sweet spot".
No need to play with the pins.

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[TomAM]

Do a search here and you'll see how other people are removing lead cold.
I cannot advise because I never try to remove it cold. Best I can say is don't put away a messy mold, and that includes any lead smear on top, and under the sprue plate. It's just too easy to brush it off while it's hot.
What I would do in this situation is cast with it until it's up to temp, then clean it. Zero chance of scratching the mold that way.

[luky-dude]

You guy are the best---Trying to clean cold now--patchs soaked in Hoppes and Kroils on them. Just to much on the .453 to try hot. I'll slow it down--I do not want this again. Thanks again for your time.

[KuunLB]

would you use a nylon brush while it's hot? or just q-tips? not sure if the nylon would hold up to the temps.

[longbow]

As said already, I clean moulds while hot. Now and again I get some lead between mould faces so have to clean it off. I make sure the mould is good and hot then use a rag or paper towel. If the lead is stubborn I will use a small piece of wood. If that doesn't do it then more heat until the lead is soft and wipes or scrapes off easily. You do not want to use anything hard or you could damage the mould blocks. You also do not want to overheat so heat just until the lead is soft.

If you don't notice until the mould is cold then use some penetrating oil or similar then next casting session pre-heat the mould until the oil is smoking. The lead should wipe off then.

Works for me anyway and I have aluminum, brass and iron moulds.

I would not use a nylon brush on a hot mould, it is likely going to melt and make a worse mess.

Longbow

[luky-dude]

I tried cleaning cold--soaked patchs of Hoppes and knoil on it for a day--it didn't do a thing. Its tin I think. I added one small piece I got a bag of it from Roto-metals for the 230 gr. HP bullets for fill-out. Added to one pot full when I did the hp bullets. I think I put some marks on it trying to dig it off with a metal pick. How what--Did I wreck a mold???

[TomAM]

I tried cleaning cold--soaked patchs of Hoppes and knoil on it for a day--it didn't do a thing. Its tin I think. I added one small piece I got a bag of it from Roto-metals for the 230 gr. HP bullets for fill-out. Added to one pot full when I did the hp bullets. I think I put some marks on it trying to dig it off with a metal pick. How what--Did I wreck a mold???

It's not wrecked unless a cavity is damaged. Remove the lead as I described, then see whether you've scratched the block face badly enough that metal is raised.

[KuunLB]

As said already, I clean moulds while hot. Now and again I get some lead between mould faces so have to clean it off. I make sure the mould is good and hot then use a rag or paper towel. If the lead is stubborn I will use a small piece of wood. If that doesn't do it then more heat until the lead is soft and wipes or scrapes off easily. You do not want to use anything hard or you could damage the mould blocks. You also do not want to overheat so heat just until the lead is soft.

If you don't notice until the mould is cold then use some penetrating oil or similar then next casting session pre-heat the mould until the oil is smoking. The lead should wipe off then.

Works for me anyway and I have aluminum, brass and iron moulds.

I would not use a nylon brush on a hot mould, it is likely going to melt and make a worse mess.

Longbow

My apologies if i missed it from somewhere else.

Penetrating oil such as PB blaster? i love that stuff, wouldn't have thought to use it on a mold for lead removal. if so, note taken.

[Bullwolf]

If I get a spot of lead stuck to a mould, I can typically remove it with a (leather) gloved finger when the mould is warm. Do NOT ever try to pick or scrape at it using metal implements.

For really stubborn pieces of lead stuck to a mould, I have found that they are easy to remove while the mould is warm (at casting temperature) with a dab of beeswax, and a small poke from a wooden chopstick. I tend to keep an old chopstick around just for such an occasion.

The only time I put kroil or penetrating oil on my moulds is when I am done casting with them to protect from rust before putting them away.

Your results may vary.


- Bullwolf

[luky-dude]

No scatchs in the cavitys--but some or enough on the flats. You do not want to know now I cleaned it. Will get a hard wood pointed stick for next time when hot and be watching them closer now.Could it have been tin as hoppes didn't do a thing to it???

[MtGun44]

Make an oak chisel and it will clean off when hot.

Bill

[luky-dude]

That's what I'll get--a oak chisel. Thanks every body

[paul h]

would you use a nylon brush while it's hot? or just q-tips? not sure if the nylon would hold up to the temps.

Nylon melts at a relatively low temperature, if touch a nylon brush to a hot mold it'll melt and while I've never tried to remove molten nylon from a mold I don't think it would be very fun.