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Thread: Rust inhibiter for molds and smelter.

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Posts
    64

    Rust inhibiter for molds and smelter.

    I've got a cast iron dutch oven for a smelting vessel. It has a light to moderate coating of rust. From reading here I take it that before smelting WW's I should wire brush out the rust.
    Question #1. After the smelting/ingot producing operation how do I store the dutch oven so that I don't have to de-rust it again before the next use? I'm guessing thet it would be ok to coat it with old motor oil since that is mentioned as an acceptable fluxing agent for the smelting process.

    Question #2. I have borrowed a broken-in RCBS mold from a dear friend that I want to protect from rust while it is in my care. Is there such a product that I could use for this that would not require stripping off before it is used for the actual casting of the bullets?
    Thanks fellas
    spurgon

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy

    bishopgrandpa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Saratoga Co. N.Y.
    Posts
    271
    Leave the oven full and it is ready for the next time. Put mold in GI ammo can with rubber seal.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    378
    McMaster-Carr sells reusable silica gel containers that last (depending on humidity) quite a while. Then when used up just heat in the oven for a couple of hours at 300 degrees. I have three and they are great.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    Stock #2219K91

    Wineman

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    409
    One of the best ways, the best way actually, to store molds is in a well sealed ammo box with a vapor phase inhibitor such as Zerust or Bullfrog. You can Google them. There will be no rust or oil to clean off, no mess whatever.

    Bill

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Orange county, Ca.
    Posts
    3,944
    Agreeing with the other posts! I have stored my small collection of molds in a 50 Cal. ammo can with a sealed lid for many years! I have a jar of the disscant in with the molds and have never had a rusting issue! Just make sure you check it often to "renew" it when needed!

    The molds must go back in the "can" as soon as they are cool to the touch!

    As far as the smelting pot is concerned? Who cares if it has a little rust? As soon as you heat it up it will come off as you flux!

    This means store it in a cool dry place not outside in the snow! My experience with rust inhibators is they take forever to get off and then smoke up the whole place after you think you've gotten it all off!

    So don't put anything on the dutch oven and take reasonable care of it and it won't be a problem!

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    9

    Rust in die's

    Sir.


    I use a light coat of moly lube on the inside of the mold. Moly lube comes in a spray can. Most any wholesale company that sells motors and lighting supplys
    should have it. You do not have to remove it to start casting again. Works great on the soft Lee molds. Will not burn off, only needs to be resprayed about every
    500 to 600 bullets. Try Grangers,I know they have it.


    Mike Circle
    Circle141@msn.com
    727-544-1295

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check