Recluse Lube - Simplified

[youngda9]

I've been using Recluse lube for a couple years now (4/45/10). A while back I ran out while lubing a large batch of boolits for my 358 Winchester. I didn't have time to boil off and make a batch, so I just started dropping JPW and LLA into the croc-pot at a 50/50 ratio. I figure, why spend the time to boil off the solvents just to add 10% solvent back into the lube. I've been shooting this LL/JPW-50/50 lube for a while now between 2000-2215 fps in my 358 Winchesters and at 2050 in the 375 Ruger (bumping up the charge for the next loading). No leading, nice lube star, and the lube is slightly soft after cooled...which my 45/45/10 never was. I dip lube into a small crock-pot of melted lube(heated) and then re-pass the boolits through the Lee sizer die to pack the grooves and wipe off most of the excess lube. Excess can be wiped off with a rag (I get a bit of excess on the nose due to my dip-lube method).

Just wanted to let everyone know there is a no-fuss option that seems to work just as well.

[dromia]

Glad it works but it isn't 45-45-10, there are good reasons for boiling of the solvents explained in the pertinent threads.

You have your own concoction and good for you but Recluse lube it isn't.

I have the simplest method of all for 45-45-10, I buy it from White Label.

[youngda9]

Every time that I made the recluse lube it hardened completely. I had to heat it for 5 min in the microwave to melt it, in order to use it, and then it would harden when re-applied. I ended up buying a small croc-pot for the task. I must have been doing something wrong because I wasn't getting the desired consistency.

It appears someone else discovered exactly what I did in post #45 &#54 of that thread.

Recluse states in post #121 to the question why burn it off only to add back in mineral spirits "I do it so I can more consistently control the viscosity plus the amount of wax and lubing properties in the JPW that is mixed with the LLA."

The viscosity is just fine with the 50/50 un-boiled mix. The wax and lubing properties leave nothign left to be desired. No need for more control for me.

I guess that I'm not surprised that at this website a thread can get 773 replies (and counting) and then someone (me) comes along and posts a new thread with slight tweak (possibly an improvement) to it and mine gets #115 views and only a single reply. Circling the wagons or something is going on here. Not sure why I decide to take the time and effort to share sometimes. Oh well.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Every time that I made the recluse lube it hardened completely. I had to heat it for 5 min in the microwave to melt it, in order to use it, and then it would harden when re-applied. I ended up buying a small croc-pot for the task. I must have been doing something wrong because I wasn't getting the desired consistency.

It appears someone else discovered exactly what I did in post #45 &#54 of that thread.

Recluse states in post #121 to the question why burn it off only to add back in mineral spirits "I do it so I can more consistently control the viscosity plus the amount of wax and lubing properties in the JPW that is mixed with the LLA."

The viscosity is just fine with the 50/50 un-boiled mix. The wax and lubing properties leave nothign left to be desired. No need for more control for me.

I guess that I'm not surprised that at this website a thread can get 773 replies (and counting) and then someone (me) comes along and posts a new thread with slight tweak (possibly an improvement) to it and mine gets #115 views and only a single reply. Circling the wagons or something is going on here. Not sure why I decide to take the time and effort to share sometimes. Oh well.

I'm sorry you didn't get the response you were looking for. If you were looking for reply comments, it helps to end your OP with a question or a simple "please add your experience"...Pictures tell a lot more, and will usually bring a few "extra" comments, depending on the composition .

Also, I'm guessing for most of us, the individual ways we each make/use/apply tumble lube has been refined by our own experience. There as members here that use straight LLA with success...Some use a thinned LLA, Some use straight JPW with success. So figuring out what works with your own shooting application or finding the viscosity of a mix that is easy to apply for your desired technique can be as individual as a particular load is to a specific firearm.

My technique for making 45-45-10 yields a mixture the consistancy of peanut butter (which seems thicker than what most here make it). I learned from the first batch, that if I didn't store it in a sealed mason Jar, it hardened with age (as the solvents evaporate) and as your quote by recluse, then I'd have to adjust the amount used, since there was less solvents in the mix.

I like the peanut butter consistency, I use a screw driver to scoup out an amount the size of a boolit to coat 50 to 100. Then apply heat to the bowl, boolits, and the daub of lube with a heatgun. I swirl the mix and dump it on wax paper. The heat seems to make the lube dry on the boolits much faster, I can usually handle the boolits in 10 minutes...Size 'em and repeat the lube coating process.

These were for 22 hornet rifle, so I applied a heavier second layer than I do with pistol boolits.
good Luck,
Jon

[Elkins45]

I guess that I'm not surprised that at this website a thread can get 773 replies (and counting) and then someone (me) comes along and posts a new thread with slight tweak (possibly an improvement) to it and mine gets #115 views and only a single reply. Circling the wagons or something is going on here. Not sure why I decide to take the time and effort to share sometimes. Oh well.

No circling of the wagons. It's bullet lube not politics. It's just been talked to death. With 773 replies in the other thread there's not much left to say. Several people have posted almost identical comments in the past.

[oso]

Just a question. How do I circle my old still functional red Radio Flyer? Second question: Why would I want to?
Third question: Did I miss out on some wagon circle conspiracy?
Inquiring minds want to know. Replies eagerly awaited. Oh well.

[Bulldogger]

Just a question. How do I circle my old still functional red Radio Flyer? Second question: Why would I want to?
Third question: Did I miss out on some wagon circle conspiracy?
Inquiring minds want to know. Replies eagerly awaited. Oh well.

You have to upgrade to the knobby-tired Radio Flyer ATW to achieve circling capability. The wood siding is good for hiding behind for cover as well.

To the OP: glad you found a way that works for you, that's what matters.

BDGR

[WILCO]

Not sure why I decide to take the time and effort to share sometimes. Oh well.

Never let those things which you find objectionable, to keep you from sharing knowledge.
You never know what value someone else will find in your discoveries.

[Hamish]

Wilco is right! As long as their is an internet, someone down the road may benefit.

Now, to the OP.

Interesting that you went 50/50. As far as a simplified version, a couple years ago I took a small bottle of the Lee Alox and melted it into a can of JPW and called it good. Reported it in the Recluse 45/45/10 thread, never got as much as a burp on the radar, but that's ok. To date I have been more than pleased with the results in both rifles and pistols, in excess of 2K fps.

Personally, I have a suspicion that it can be pushed to a higher velocity than the cooked version, but I have no proof of it.

[imashooter2]

I pile the boolits into an old square peanut jar, maybe 4-500 at a time. Then I scoop about a tablespoon or so of JPW into the jar followed by a squirt of LLA and tumble. LLA is probably 25-30%. Every batch is different. All of it works the same in my application. -shrug-

[Elkins45]

Personally, I have a suspicion that it can be pushed to a higher velocity than the cooked version, but I have no proof of it.

I've done it both ways and my experience has been the opposite. I think something happens chemically when the two are cooked together. At any rate I like the harder-drying characteristic of the cooked version better, and handling is one of the major reasons I like tumble lubing.

[runfiverun]

try it without the Lla,,,, that is what Joe does [shrug]
or just cooked off jpw and bees-wax for a super hard shell similar to the one used on 22 Lr boolits.
[fore runner to JD's 45 lube]
or add some bees-wax to the 45 lube to help the flow characteristics of the lube [another pre-trial of the final 45 lube]
or just spray on some bicycle chain lube [ricochets trials] or moly coat from a spray can [saeed method]
or you can dry out the Lla and use it as a lube by itself. [leftiye]
or just dip the boolits in the wet Lla up to the grooves set/stand them on some wax paper and get back the run-off [ranch dog's method]

[Hamish]

I've done it both ways and my experience has been the opposite. I think something happens chemically when the two are cooked together. At any rate I like the harder-drying characteristic of the cooked version better, and handling is one of the major reasons I like tumble lubing.

See now? This is why it never hurts to look a thing over every once in a while. I have wondered what the chemical transmutation is when cooked myself,,,,,

[runfiverun]

it takes the solvents out that keeps the jpw soft.
adding in the mineral spirits is to thin the mixture out so you get LESS on the boolits.
I add Waaaay more than 10% mineral spirits back in when I make it.
I also add bees-wax and pigmented tre-wax so I can see a red-brown tint on the boolits.
my mix comes out more like 50-50% [lla/jpw] 25% [B-Tre-wax] and another 50% mineral spirits added to the lla/jpw mix.
it comes out super thin and runny [but thickens up over time]
I add more mineral spirits as needed it helps the lube dry faster and go on thinner.

[mdi]

Holy Moly! What a great idea! I would have never thought of that and I'm realllly glad you shared your new and improved method for making a JPW+alox lube!! Mebbe someone should make this great idea a stickie!

How was that? Enough praise?