simple Hi-Tek coating

[Ausglock]

When you shake at the 1/2 way point, you only have them out of the oven for 2 seconds while shaking. That is all that is needed.

You should be fine. suck it and see.

[kentuckycajun]

Hmmm - I wonder
if I just shook the whole oven....

[HI-TEK]

Hmmm - I wonder
if I just shook the whole oven....

Good point.....lol

The cooking is not all that "sensitive"
Simply try a few, at what ever settings you decide, around 200C, cook for 5-6 minutes, remove tray, shake to move around projectiles, and replace back into the oven and finish cooking for 5-6 minutes again..
Check cooled product, and if all is OK, coat again.

[Michael J. Spangler]

i cooked about 1k mixed today
358429
358156
358495
mp454200

that batch went for 15 minutes at 375. it was the second coat. passes all the test perfectly

i was in a rush with the next batch which was all 358156 and mp 454200 so i checking it at about 9 or so minutes just for the heck of it.
i checked a random bullet from each style i was coating. passed flawlessly also.

this coating has plenty of leeway. if i've learned anything from following this giant thread for months its that as long as you have consistent heat, and coat properly you can get the job done. a little high or a little low on temp or a little lees or more on time and you're still good.
its such an awesome product.
oh by the way i'm using gold coating and i have a kelvinator home sized electric oven that was given to me from a friend. he used to use it for powder coating. once its up to temp its very consistent.

[Gremlin460]

Hmmm - I wonder
if I just shook the whole oven....

Drill a hole in the side of the oven and shake the tray with a wire hook, no need to open door..

[Rick45Colt]

I finally got around to making steel baskets for baking yesterday. Someone gave me a toaster oven but it is not a convection. If I have read correctly this can be critical. Opinions, please?

[leadman]

Rick, if you are just doing small batches a toaster oven can be used. A Walmart DVOM with the thermocouple for $20 is a big aid in making sure you have the correct baking temperatures.
One of my oven is an old Black & Decker with a door that rolls back and up that I use a pid with. I use it for baking boolits and preheating my molds. My other 2 are convection ovens.
Check out the thrift stores for convection ovens. I bought one for $10 and the other for $4.

[Gremlin460]

Ausglock once made a suggestion to me that I think has Hi Merits, drill a hole in the oven and fit motor on outside and fan on inside, taken that suggestion and add in HiTek's mention that high heat turbulence is a good thing makes this idea even more attractive.

Lets face it, none of the oven manufactures had what we do in mind, and even our "convection" ovens are a mere breeze compared to what we really could do with.

[leadman]

Gremlin, I have been thinking of doing what Ausglock suggested. I have one of my convection ovens that the fan motor is getting lazy. I have taken it apart but it is a really cheap motor. I do have 5 or 6 small motor around so might be able to retrofit one of them.
My best convection oven moves alot of air and I do not open it until the timer runs out and the boolits are all baked evenly.
When I had the fan out of my convection oven I found out that it blows outside air into the oven rather than recirculating heated air. This could be the reason some of the ovens do not recover very fast. The fan blade is plastic.

[HI-TEK]

Gremlin, I have been thinking of doing what Ausglock suggested. I have one of my convection ovens that the fan motor is getting lazy. I have taken it apart but it is a really cheap motor. I do have 5 or 6 small motor around so might be able to retrofit one of them.
My best convection oven moves alot of air and I do not open it until the timer runs out and the boolits are all baked evenly.
When I had the fan out of my convection oven I found out that it blows outside air into the oven rather than recirculating heated air. This could be the reason some of the ovens do not recover very fast. The fan blade is plastic.

Leadman,
You can get from electric wholesalers, specific domestic oven fans (aftermarket stuff) , that are supplied with two metal fans.
I got one and got stung a bit on price.

But, I managed to get a tool shop to make me an extension shaft for the fan motor.
I mounted motor on the outside with shaft going through wall of oven.
Mounted fan inside oven, and it works great.
Motor does not get hot and has bushes instead of bearings.

I have an inline power switch, so I can turn fan off first, before opening the oven, so I don't bang any thing into rotating fan whilst taking out or loading stuff..

Unless you open oven, and keep door open for long time, I doubt that very short periods of open oven door should affect too much the baking cycle.

If you loose some temperature during half way whilst "shake and return tray", simply leave in the product a little longer to finish bake say 1 minute or two.

The "Shake & return tray at half way point", this was a suggestion made by someone, for people who don't have good air circulation inside their ovens and may get large temperature cycling, and variation with cooking.

If you have internal fan, it is not so much a problem, and getting good air circulation, eliminates the removal at half way to shake tray.

[leadman]

I went to the range yesterday with my 1960s' era Savage 110 CL 30-06 and some heat treated linotype boolits coated with the Gold 1035 (3 coats), and Hornady gas checks. The boolit was Lee's 30 caliber 200gr RN sized .309". Powder was H1000 and a Winchester large rifle primer. Overall length was 3.19" . Range was 100 yards. 5 shots

Here are the results:
Charge Avg. Velocity Group Size
55 grs 2,354 fps 1.435"
56grs 2,396 fps 1.715"
57grs 2,427 fps 1.646"

Bore was very clean and shiny after shooting. This is the first time I have used this powder and it was amazing how clean the bore was.Attachment 109083Attachment 109084Attachment 109082

The pictures uploaded out of order so they are #2, #3, #1.

[leadman]

When I was at the range Thursday I also shot a Type 99 Arisaka that I recently purchased. The shooting was done at 25 yards since I had no idea where the boolits might end up. This is a full military gun with original sights, mum, uncut stock.
Here is the info on the load:
S&B 8X57 case reformed to 7.7X58 (a little short but works fine)
Lee 160-312-TL (actually 170grs) sized .315"
Hi-Tek Red Copper
copper GC
MagTech LR primer
18grs IMR SR4759
3.055" OAL
5 shots
25 yards
1,492 fps
.416" group size.

[ItZaLLgooD]

I have had 45 pills cast from range reclaim and left to sit for a few months prior to coating. No problems.
Check your process.

I can get range lead for relatively cheap locally. This would be an acceptable alloy for 45acp??

I shot (actually my son) shot a full USPSA match with the coated 45's that I did earlier. I still have a little bit of leading. It was just over 100 rnds, but it was pretty much the same amount of leading I got when I shot 25-50 rnds for testing. It doesn't seem to get any worse as I continue to shoot.

These boolits are from a Lee tumble lube mold. Maybe the TL boolit is causing some issues?? There isn't a lot of surface on this mold.

I am going to add some shot to my alloy and try some 40's. My 40 mold is not a TL design.

[Ausglock]

Range reclaim (8 to 10 BHN) is fine for 45ACP. This is what I'm using with 2 coats of Kryptonite Green. The bullet is Use now is the Hardline 230gn RN. But I have used the Lee 230gn RNTL with no issues. There is a lot of leading caused by the lack of proper throating in barrels. Most barrels are throated for jacketed. I reamed the throat of my Para GI Expert and can now seat longer and zero leading. Accuracy has improved as an added bonus. From 15 yards 6 of 8 shots went through the same hole. the other 2 shots were like the ears on the mickey mouse club hat. All hand held standing.

[Michael J. Spangler]

I did a second coat on a 10 or so pound batch today. Placed it in the oven.
Totally forgot about it. Left to buy some sandpaper and didn't pull the batch for probably 40 minutes.
They were dark but other than that they passed the tests and look great to me.
God I love this coating.

[HI-TEK]

I did a second coat on a 10 or so pound batch today. Placed it in the oven.
Totally forgot about it. Left to buy some sandpaper and didn't pull the batch for probably 40 minutes.
They were dark but other than that they passed the tests and look great to me.
God I love this coating.

You are a naughty person.
Fancy you abusing the poor coatings that way...lol...lol

Main thing is, did they shoot OK?
Now for the dreary details, what gun, calibre, feet per second etc etc.. (some may actually wish to know such details)

What colour coating did you use, and what colour were they when you finished them?
Before and after pictures would be great.

Thanks much...Joe

[Michael J. Spangler]

I haven't shot any yet but I'll let you all know as soon as I do
It was the gold liquid coating. They turned out pretty dark almost a light cinnamon color. They kind of nice.
I'll let you know how the shoot.
I'll have to take some pics tomorrow side by side with the batch that I didn't over cook.

Just goes to show once again this coating can take a beating and isn't something you need to baby and get exactly perfect each time. It still works! Plenty of room for operator error.

[Michael J. Spangler]

So I tried to take a picture of them side by side.
There isn't really much difference. I guess if I used my light tent I could get a decent picture but there isn't really much difference to speak of.

[ItZaLLgooD]

Here we go.

1st coat dried.



Cooked at 400° for 14 minutes. (only at 400 for the last 4 minutes) And wiped with lacquer thinner. No color on the paper towel.



Smash test.

[ItZaLLgooD]

2nd coat. Drying



Again, 400° for 14 minutes. really rubbed with lacquer thinner, still no color on the paper towel.



Last smash test.