44 magnum boolits jumping crimp

[runfiverun]

one thing I have run into before is that I need to spin the case around and crimp again.
I have seen dies want to do one side of the case well, and the other side barely at all.

I was also thinking your win cases are a click longer than the other ones are [I know starline cases have a slightly smaller capacity than win cases do] but the shorter case length would affect the crimp and allow the movement.

[Tatume]

Now you're talkin'!

+1 Excellent crimp, and excellent photo of a crimp.

[sammorgan3]

From what I know, the vast majority of retention should be neck tension. Don't be afraid to crimp gutentite in the crimp groove.

[40-82]

I really appreciate the response. You've given me a lot of ideas to work with. The first one I'll try this morning is to load a seated round without crimping and use the bullet puller to determine the amount of neck tension with several different expanders. I had read about the importance of case tension on the bullet, but it never occurred to test it that way.

[Shuz]

In my experience of over 50 years with the.44 mag, I've determined that case neck tension is far more important in preventing boolit jump/creep, than any amount of crimp. An added benefit is that cases that aren't belled too much to accept the cast boolit without shaving; and then crimped too hard to prevent jumping, last much longer before the necks start to split.

[Wayne Smith]

If nothing else works anneal your brass. Hard brass (Starline) will bounce back.

[Petrol & Powder]

I'll second Shuz concerning the benefit of belling the case mouth just enough to start the bullet without shaving lead.
Over-working the that last 1/16" of brass at the case mouth will result in shortened case life.

[mdi]

Heed Tar Heel's post! BTW Tar, good photo...

[Tar Heel]

Heed Tar Heel's post! BTW Tar, good photo...

I started playing with the "super macro" function of the camera. The feedback it provided was revealing. Your eye can't detect those .001 or .002 gaps but there is no fooling the lens. Thanks for the compliment.

Regarding neck tension in a straight walled revolver case.....I have NEVER tested it. Bullets have to be pushed into the case so it must be enough. EVERY time I had bullets jump crimps in my .357, 41 Mag, 44 Mag, and 454 Casull, I have stopped it by applying a proper, heavier and/or better roll crimp. While I don't doubt that case neck tension plays a minor role here, the crimp is the deciding factor. IMHO

[40-82]

I tried Gray Wolf's suggestion and seated some of my RCBS boolits in an empty expanded case and tapped them out with the inertia puller. They came back out way too easy. When I tried pulling boolits after using several different expanders I didn't feel much difference. Then I remembered that in my last potful I made some 429421's with the old single cavity Lyman mold I used as a teenager. I don't remember in those days having any trouble with boolits jumping the crimp even when I used the old Keith load of 22 grains of 2400 in my old Ruger Super Blackhawk. I weighed a few of these 429421's and they came out at 253 grains. I distinctly remember my typical weight when I used wheel weights that the weights tended to go between 245 and 247 grains. My guess now is that the alloy I am using may be too soft for good neck tension in a magnum load. In recent years I have used mainly lighter loads and things like wheel weights and monotype are harder to come by, and I have tended to hoard them rather than use them. So, I think it is going to be back to the casting pot to make a few boolits with a harder alloy.