Seat & Crimp Separately?

[MT Chambers]

If you decide to crimp and seat in 2 steps, you do NOT need more then the seating die, use seating die to seat to proper depth, then remove seating stem and adjust die down to crimp, don't make it any more complicated or expensive then necessary.

[hardy]

This was posted while I was making my last post. This was the information I was looking for. I may try to find a used seat die for one cartridge, as recommended, and try it out.

Hi,alamogunr,before buying another die just try the next size up seating die you own to seat,then crimp with your "regular" die which will have the appropriate crimp style,..If you,re not having problems you won,t have to spend to find out if you prefer the two step process.Good luck,Mike P.S. I use a 44 seating die for my 38s and crimp with the 38 die.

[Changeling]

Seating and crimping in seperate operations opinion.

First off I agree with doing it in two steps!

The whole idea behind reloading cartridges is to make them as consistant as possible, that includes powder charges, length of cartridge (OAL).

To me, the case length is very important, I take the time to make ALL my cases the exact same length according to SAMMI standards, be it pistol/revolver/rifle.
How else are you going to control the volume of the cases as close as one can? I know it's a real PITA but it is necessary if you want consistant ammunition and accuracy. It is a very important step in creating the all important ammunition you depend on.
If you care!

[wallenba]

You can seat and crimp separately with the same die, just not at the same time obviously. I adjust my seater to not crimp, and then use another die with seater removed to crimp. Extra money sure. But I can adjust them and lock in position with a Hornady die lock ring. No fiddling again.

[alamogunr]

I see many statements that members seat their boolets and then crimp. I've never done this but it sounds as if it would give me a better product. I've never seen an explanation that details how this is done.

Do you use the seat and crimp die and just adjust it to seat the boolet first and then back off the seat stem and adjust the die to crimp? Or is a separate crimp die used?

Not trying to be a smart alec, but this was in my OP. The difference in some response posts points out that I should remove the seat stem completely. I may have found that out the hard way if I tried to crimp and only back the seat stem off some amount. I'll be trying it with the dies I have to see how it works.

I've got some .38 Spec. and .44 Spec ready to load. It may be a couple of weeks before I can get to it. When it warmed up here(I know, some of you may still be dealing with snow)everything started to grow, such as grass, weeds, etc.

[birddog]

I guess when time warrants I'll have to set up and load with and without the begrudged seating and crimping in one step and ring out the groups and see if there is enough difference in my hunting loads to justify it.
Charlie

[largom]

Yes you can just back off the seating stem and then crimp with the same die. Have the die backed off of crimping when seating then raise the seating stem and lower die to crimp.

Larry

[357shooter]

Word Up!

I like the Lee 4-die set, except for the FCD. Die # 3 seats the boolit. In auto pistol, I use a Lee Taper Crimp die. For revolvers, I use a Redding Profile Crimp die.

No one has mentioned press type. A 4-station press is really good for handgun ammo. I have the Lee classic cast (cast iron) 4-die station press. Die 1 resizes & decaps (new primer seated @ first station). Die 2 expands and powder is dropped. Die 3 seats boolit. Die 4 crimps.

The same process can be done on a single-stage press, just slot of die & brass swapping involved!

FYI, the Lee 4 die sets are a 3 die set with the FCD added. Die number 3 in the 4 die set will seat and crimp if thats how you set it up. If you don't use the Pistol FCD then there's no reason to buy the 4 die set, unless that's all you can get.

[357shooter]

Not trying to be a smart alec, but this was in my OP. The difference in some response posts points out that I should remove the seat stem completely. I may have found that out the hard way if I tried to crimp and only back the seat stem off some amount. I'll be trying it with the dies I have to see how it works.

I've got some .38 Spec. and .44 Spec ready to load. It may be a couple of weeks before I can get to it. When it warmed up here(I know, some of you may still be dealing with snow)everything started to grow, such as grass, weeds, etc.

FYI, Lee will sell a seating die separately for approx $11-13 if I remember right, plus shipping. You can order just the body if that's all you want. They work great as a dedicated crimp die in a four station press.

[62chevy]

For less than 20 bucks you can have the Lee FCD that can be adjusted for no crimp or full swaging of your boolit, mine are adjusted to just remove the flare the powder through die gives.

To answer you question I use two dies for seating and crimping. Why because adjusting the seating die was a total PITA.

[Shiloh]

Two separate steps for me.

Shiloh

[FThera]

Two steps here. But then I trim my 45 colt brass too.

[MtGun44]

The only time I do seating & crimping the same die is when using a boolit
design with a good crimp groove that will let me do it properly without
raising a ridge of lead. So, these are pretty much all revolvers.

All my semi-auto ammo is done with separate seater and crimp dies. Always.

Bill

[stu1ritter]

I load all my handgun (straight cases) using the seat/crimp single die. I have been loading .45ACP for about 40 years and have always used the single die and my accuracy has not suffered in bullseye shooting. I think it is a matter of becoming familiar with your particular die and how to adjust it.
Stu

[jonp]

2 steps after some advice on this forum. I bought a separate taper crimp die for the revolver rounds and 45ACP when I am running target loads and a seperate seat/crimp die for crimping only for the others.

Before I had the separate dies I used to back out the crimp and just seat all of the boolits then go back and readjust the die to crimp and do it again. A pain but not that big of a deal

[RobS]

OK! Several have said they crimp separately w/a crimp die. Do reloading manufacturers sell crimp only dies and are they different for taper crimp and roll crimp?

I am aware of the Lee FC dies. I am also aware of recommendations to not use them on handgun ammunition because of possibility of sizing the boolet.

Yes many manufactures make dies that are only designed for crimping and Lee also has taper dies for autos that are not the Factory Crimp Die style with the carbide ring. Also any seat/crimp die can be used to only crimp by backing out the seating part of the die so it doesn't perform that function and only crimps. These dies can also be used to only seat as well by adjusting the seating stem down far enough that the crimp function of the die is not in play.

[leftiye]

The whole purpose of seating and crimping in separate operations is to prevent lead being shaved from the bullet as the crimping case mouth contacts the side of the bullets as it is moving down to it's final resting place.

If matters not if you use two separate dies or adjust a single die as you set out in your original post.

It is OK to seat in crimp in one operation if you are roll crimping into a crimp groove on the bullets as there will be no lead shaved.

Use a taper crimp on auto pistol bullets or any other that does not have a crimp groove.

Use a roll crimp on bullets with a crimp groove.

I have no experience with the LEE FCD, so will just keep my mouth shut on that issue.

If you want to taper crimp you will need to buy a die just for that purpose.

If you want to roll crimp in separate operation, buy another used seating die on ebay as most have crimp rings in them. Just remove the bullet seating stem.

Geesh, I never thought of roll crimping into a driving band of a boolit! I think a two step crimp is just way more precise than forcing different length of brass to do the crimp into the lead - moving case - and boolit not moving thing. The crimps themselves will have less variation and deformation.

Everyone should be aware that roll crimps on revolver brass and others on non revolver cases done for two distinctly separate purposes. There are guns that pull the boolit out of the case (revolvers) and guns that push boolits back into the case (all the rest). And yes, there are those that roll crimp everything. Just be aware that revolvers are in a class by themselves. I myself don't have a taper crimp die. They size down boolits, not to mention deform them. Best used minimally into the backside of a driving band.

[MBTcustom]

Don't get wrapped around the axle with this. Unless you are going for a specific effect, or trying some new doo dad, there is no reason that you should feel like you have to buy a separate die for crimping.
After I fill all my brass with powder, I take the first one and put it in the press and drop the handle.
Then I screw the die down till I feel the case mouth and back off 1/2 a turn.
then I take a loaded cartridge from the previous run and replace the empty casing with the laoded one, and set my seating punch.
Put the charged case back in and seat a boolit.
Double check OAL with calipers and stuff all of em in.
Once all the boolits are seated, I back the punch off about 3 turns and put the example cartridge back in the press and drop the handle.
I simply screw the die down till I feel it bottom on the example cartridge.
I put one of the new caridges in there and crimp it.
If the crimp looks perfecto, then I run the rest of them through.

Now, I do use a separate crimp die on the Dillon, but unless you plan on loading progressive, I don't see the importance of buying another die.
Think about it: If you are loading a new batch, you're going to be adjusting stuff anyway. If you are loading something you have loaded before, then you have example cartridges to use as a setup gauge (which is a much better way to load than depending on your dies to stop the same place they did last time).

[44man]

No, never ever found any need to crimp separate. I have extra crimp dies but some boolits do not fit through so the profile dies are not used. I seat and crimp at one time and since nobody has ever shot revolver groups like I have, seems silly.

[cbrick]

I seat and crimp at one time and since nobody has ever shot revolver groups like I have, seems silly.

Now that seems silly. Nobody Jim? Really?

I never seat and crimp in the same step. Either separate dies or re-adjust the same seating die to seat and then crimp.

Rick