I would 2nd the idea of using tumble on top of hard lube. I use 45/45/10 on top of 20 year old commercial bullets and do away with all issues with just a few minutes work!
hotbrew
I would 2nd the idea of using tumble on top of hard lube. I use 45/45/10 on top of 20 year old commercial bullets and do away with all issues with just a few minutes work!
hotbrew
Life is good, if you don't weaken...
There is prudence in public knowledge of who can own guns, but there is danger in knowing who does own guns
Lots of good info here. I am having to buy boolits right now as I just don't have my casting gear set up yet. Perhaps later this year as I have a furnace, lubsizer, and some molds. Once I start pouring my own I'm sure I'll have lots of questions. One of the things that I wanted to do now was develop a load that worked in my gun. That way when I started casting I would have something to duplicate. Obviously what I am shooting now isn't a load that I will duplicate. One thing that really stands out is that I was shooting a Meister commercial cast boolit of about the same hardness that wasn't leading. With the BHN and sizing being equal between the Meister and the Missouri SWC boolits with one lube groove I would have to think the lube would be the culprit. True I am using a mag primer and a fast powder but in today's time of shooting what I can get I sort of have to shoot what I can get. I haven't even seen a small pistol non-magnum primer in a year. When last I slugged the barrel of my revolver it was right at .358". I do not have any pin gauges so I have always just pushed a jacketed bullet that I measured through my cylinder throats. This doesn't give me any measured data but does tell me about where the throats are. If I get the cylinder off the gun again I'll try to slug the cylinders. I have some Lee liquid Alox so I'll probably try this on some of these boolits and see what happens. I also have some Speer swaged boolits that are probably pretty soft that I will also try. Thanks for all of the info.
Dan
Check Hi Tech, They have had CCI small pistol primers for $135 for 5 K for about a month now.
The Alox will help, but not ellemenate. I get better results using Lyman Moly lube/
You can buy lubed bullets to test from Montana Bullet Works....i believe he uses LBT lube. The LBT FN bullet designs will work best in revolvers because the slightly rounded shoulders provide best bullet alignment when leaving cylinder then into barrel forcing cone. Give Veral a call he will get you started in the right direction...he loves to talk.
http://www.lbtmoulds.com/selectbullet.shtml
Last edited by detox; 01-09-2014 at 06:55 PM.
I had the same problem with a GP-100 shooting the exact same bullet with unique a few years ago. Switching from unique to H110 or 2400 solved my problem.
LBT TIPS ON SELECTING A BULLET STYLE
GASCHECK OR PLAINBASE? – We recommend gas checks without reservation under the following conditions:
If velocities will exceed 1400 to 1600 fps, or estimated chamber pressure will exceed about 35,000/40,000 psi.
For velocities over 1000 fps if shooting sequence will be rapid enough to heat the barrel till uncomfortable for the hands, and especially so if atmosphere temperatures will exceed 90 deg F.
In revolvers with notably misaligned cylinder throats.
In almost all new handguns which haven’t had the bore smoothed by lapping. (Extensive jacketed bullets use helps smooth a little.)
For anyone who shoots so little that GC cost isn’t a concern, and especially so for beginners with loading cast bullets.
Whenever optimum accuracy, and, or, ease of load development takes precedence over slight higher cost and production effort.
When desirable to use one bullet and load in several guns of the same caliber
I too had leading with Missouri hard cast. I'm in the process right now of hopefully curing that. I have tools on the way to open my cylinder up to .431" and change my forcing cone to 11 degrees. As shipped, my SBH has a tight spot at the barrel threads and another slight one, about a inch from the muzzle. When I get the cutting done, I'm going to firelap it with some that I cast myself, and see what happens. It's a pretty good shooting gun as is. Hope it turns in to a great shooting gun.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |