Whats the difference between .38 Special and .38 special +p brass?

[clownbear69]

I recently acquired a lot of .38 special and +P brass. Is there any difference between the two besides head stamps? Im assuming the +P is only stamped for loaded ammo on the shelf but the brass is the same.

If im wrong please let me know

[44Vaquero]

No, It's strictly a factory marking. Older firearms or light weight may not be able to handle +P or +P+, hence the markings to help insure they are not used in non +P rated firearms.

[clownbear69]

No, It's strictly a factory marking. Older firearms or light weight may not be able to handle +P or +P+, hence the markings to help insure they are not used in non +P rated firearms.

That's what I figured. I still separated anyways. Thanks

[wv109323]

It depends on the ammo manufacturer and the caliber. Some +P brass has thicker walls( less case capacity) than the regular brass. I use the brass interchangeably because I shoot it in revolvers with mild to standard velocities. The Bullseye shooters that shot .38 Specials autos (S&W 52, Colt Mid-Range) segregated their brass because the thicker +P taper crimped tighter.

[seaboltm]

Just for grins I have loaded 357 powder charges of Blue Dot into 38 cases, seating the bullet out to coal of the 357, not the 38 special. The bullet is not seated very deep into the 38 case at all, and may jump out due to recoil in revolvers. But it worked fine in my contender. Sure, the 38 brass may not last long, but that's a big "may", and I never pushed the experiment to determine brass life. Some do the same thing for the 357 Maximum, loading max data in magnum cases and seating the bullet to coal of the max. Needless to say putting a 357 charge in a 38 case and seating the bullet to 38 special length will likely result in adverse results, to say the least.

[44Vaquero]

According to Starline Brass, there is no difference between regular and +P in .38 Special, except for the head stamp. The only +P cases that they say are different are the .38 Super and .45 ACP!

[opos]

I load a lot of 38 and am pretty careful to not load 38+P in a non +P cartridge...not because of a difference in brass..don't think there is any...but I'd hate like the devil to have someone get hold of a hot 38 special +P load and try to shoot it in an old beater .... non +P revolver...Got a buddy that loads for other people (I don't) and he got sick and his wife sold off a bunch of his reloads and components to help with some bills...I know there were some really potent loads in the mix and probably some not marked +P...I don't ever shoot anyone else's loads and I don't load for anyone else..just my deal.

[JSAND]

That’s a great philosophy and sage advice to follow from opos, Even if your shooting with a +P rated pistol, unless you have pulled some boolits and checked for type and charge of powder, you don't know what's in it or how much. As far as the brass as 44Vaquero and others stated no difference in brass, bar head stamp that I have discerned

[mdi]

Yep, only difference between standard .38 Special and .38 Special +P is the headstamp. When I first encountered the +P this same question was floating around the web, so I weighed all the +P cases I had and an equal amount of standard load .38s. There was more difference in manufacturers (WW vs RP vs. Fed) than in standard vs. +P. If I took all the same mfg. there was mebbe 1.0-1.5 gr. difference within the same lot (IIRC), and 2.0-3.0 gr. difference between a handful of mixed standard headstamps...

jes my .02...

[Bayou52]

I recently acquired a lot of .38 special and +P brass. Is there any difference between the two besides head stamps? Im assuming the +P is only stamped for loaded ammo on the shelf but the brass is the same.

If im wrong please let me know

None that I know of but the headstamp.

[clownbear69]

sounds good thanks

[77ruger]

38 special for older guns, most all newer/modern pistols will state +P's are OK to use.
May not want to shoot +P's/hotter loads in the older guns. My2cents