Die over torqued help

[Harter66]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

[nhrifle]

If I had to guess on the construction of those turret heads, I would bet they were from extruded bar stock that is saw cut into slabs and machined. Their mold blocks are from aluminum bar stock extrusions, so why not these too?

[Harter66]

I believe they are advertised as being from aircraft billit AL. The standards for which were written in the 30's and stand today more or less unchanged. You can find those standards via FAA AN or MS , FAA/PMA is another search source. Those standards I believe are where the Numbering system comes from for the AL alloy IDs and tempering come from.

[geargnasher]

Thats what I ended up doing just ordered it a few hours ago. All the tricks posted here and I still couldnt get it to budge. On a side not if anyome wants it for what ever reason just pay for shipping and it is yours.

DOH! I missed Harter's post, never mind.

Gear

[geargnasher]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

Remove the brass set screw in the lock ring. remove guts of the die. Whack the top of the die a few times, HARD, with a lightweight plastic or plastic-faced mallet. A gunsmithing mallet, about 6-8 oz. is perfect. Place the turret head in a vise oriented same as in the press head with thin softwood blocks protecting the locking cogs. Honk on the die nut with a box-end wrench. If it doesn't come loose, apply pressure to the wrench with one hand and strike it in the same direction a light hammer like a claw hammer. If it still doesn't bust loose, get a sharp cold chisel and bite on the point of a flat with it, using a 16-oz hammer of some sort. If it still doesn't come loose, use an air chisel. After removing the lock ring, or at least getting it cracked loose so it isn't sucking up on the die threads anymore, see if the die comes out. If not, whack it again a few times on top with the light plastic mallet while cradling the turret plate in the palm of your other hand. If it's still stuck, put it back in the vise and get your pipe wrench and propane torch. Warm up the aluminum quickly and attack the die before it begins to absorb heat, hopefully the difference in expansion ratio between aluminum and steel and making the aluminum hot will crack it loose before you do too much damage to the die body.

Gear

[imashooter2]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

I have lots of Lee tools. Whether high quality moon rocket aluminum die casting or pot metal, the Lee tool heads are adequately designed for the task at hand.

That said, I still maintain that a man using decent tools would either remove the stuck die or the threads from the tool head in short order.

[carbine86]

Tool head and die have been sent out.

[Harter66]

I will try a couple of things , non-distrucively,before I forcably remove the die. In that event I will drop the head in a 36'' and the lock ring in 24'' pipe wrenches. At a minimum w/the potential for 300+ftlbs the lock ring should come loose.

There may be a reaction at work known as dissimilar metal electrolisis (sp) . The copper/brass causes an electric reaction w/the steel die and those are ok the copper oxidizes and turns green. Unless there is rust in the threads the steel and aluminum will be happy too . With the brass/copper,steel and aluminum all bunched up and a little carbon introduced to the steel and copper ,high humidity for a few days (or months) zip fused parts. My Dad is a Pipefitter, galvanized will fuse to brass seaside in 6 weeks w//w/o water inside . Black pipe and brass are happy as can be , the brass fittings if attached to black pipe and an aluminum regulator will bond to the aluminum. In aircraft ,excepting petroleum immersion , you won't find brass ,steel,and aluminum together. That's why this die is stuck most likely. A little lithium grease like Lubriplate will reduce the effects if retreated annualy or so.

[Harter66]

Thank you Carbine.

[David2011]

You can use channel locks but they will mar the lock ring.

A piece of thick leather will give the pliers' teeth something to grab and will grip the knurling on the die without damaging either. Vise grips might work even better. It worked for me.

David

[jeepvet]

I used to work with an old mechanic who always said "If won't go, don't force it. Get a bigger hammer!". Don't know if that helps, but it will make you feel better.

[JSAND]

Herter66, I hope you'll post back when you get it out, I'd like to know what it takes to free it. Thanks.

[zuke]

When I want to tighten my dies in my LEE turret i put all 3 dirs into the turret then use a screwdriver sideway's between 2 of them then tighten the free die where I want it to be. Remove screwdriver,rotate turret then tighten that die and the same procedure for the 3rd die.

[David2011]

I believe they are advertised as being from aircraft billit AL. The standards for which were written in the 30's and stand today more or less unchanged. You can find those standards via FAA AN or MS , FAA/PMA is another search source. Those standards I believe are where the Numbering system comes from for the AL alloy IDs and tempering come from.

Ah, the old "Aircraft Aluminum" trick. It's deceptive when they don't say what kinf of aircraft aluminum. Aircraft aluminum can be anything from very tough 7075-T6 to 1100 which is dead soft "pure" aluminum and mostly used for fuel tanks.

[MaryB]

If you want to recover the die cut through the head from the other side until right before the die. Get a chisel in there and split it

[Harter66]

Actually it goes all the way from T1 to T81 in alloys and clad AL T81 is ok working flat panals w/round headed rivets. I've seen it crack w/3/32nd flush rivet dimple in .025 2024, I think ,and don't even try to form or bend it.

I will check back in w/a final solution. Any residue oils have had another week to creep,it'll be banged around in the mail,its been heated chilled etc. It may just turn out.........that's how it goes when the Mech or Tech show up ,the stickies come free,the knock goes away,etc,etc.......

[bhn22]

He said RCBS dies. The older ones have a little brass piece that goes between the lock screw and the die threads to protect the dies. You're supposed to loosen the setscrew, then tap on it to get the brass piece to let go of the threads.

[Harter66]

The head and die arrived.

After carefull consideration I grabbed a 24'' Ridgid pipe wrench and padded the jaws w/flashing lead sheet strips and placed the notches on the Lee head flat on the jaws w/ the wrench tight. Then I put my 15'' Cresent (a real 1 not a clone the genuine artical is much tighter) on and to my suprise it came loose w/perhaps 30 ftlbs.

I will restate that I believe the threat of the mechanic, heat, cold shock,and oils combined w/the transit time allowed this to really just unscrew. The 30# on the 15'' wrench was probably closer to 45-50# on the nut . There did not seem to be any damage to the die,lock ring,or tool head. There wasn't any corrosion beyond the ''norm'' of age. This head was not a billet head but in fact cast .

[44Vaquero]

Congratulations Harter66! I have been waiting for this thread to become undone, so to speak!

[geargnasher]

Figured all it took was a little threatening!

Gear