Tyeo098 - How the devil did you get them to look so perfect??????????
Tyeo098 - How the devil did you get them to look so perfect??????????
i'm guessing, but I'd say he's using a powder coat gun
ALL of my boolits look like that! Every time! That is why you use an electrostatic powder spray gun rather than trying to dissolve the stuff in a darned bucket and slop it on.
Mine are smooth and perfect...........every time!
I gave up on that "dissolving thing" months ago. When the goop did actually sort-of/did stick to the slugs (and not the bucket!), I had lumps, clumps, thin spots, and ugly touch marks where the slugs contacted the screen..............just an absloute total mess in my book.
Spraying is the only way to go. After all, that is how the pro's that coat car/motorcycle parts and lawn furniture do it......right! They sure do not dissolve the stuff in acetone/laq thinner and tumble in a bucket.
$59.00 (less the 20% coupon) at Harbor Freight is not a whole lot to spend for the gun that gives you perfect boolits (and bragging rights) EVERY SINGLE time.
bangerjim
If you are getting a lot of powder on the foil and other places that on the boolits, you are using waaaaaay too much air pressure. I use no more than 15# thru a 1/8" aquarium plastic line. Works perfectly and there is hardly any powder wasted.
Even if there is, at about $5.50/pound at Harbor Freight............who cares! I coat thousands of slugs with a pound.
Back off on your air. And only put about an 1½" of powder in the jar. I have seen guys just screw the new full jar on the gun and waste most of it! I do not even try to collect the tiny bit of powder that is wasted.
You have to play around with air flow (the knob on the lower back of the gun), air pressure, and bottle fill to get the right mix for your method and style of spraying. Also use the smallest dispersion nozzle that screws onto the front of the gun.
bangerjim
I get as much of a coat on the foil as I do on the boolits.
It all has the same charge anyways.
GuiltyI have seen guys just screw the new full jar on the gun and waste most of it! I do not even try to collect the tiny bit of powder that is wasted.
Did that my first time, THEN I read the instructions!
Nice boolits pretty.
Pure lead would make NO difference.
Gas checks not needed in pistol looks good to me!
Can anyone provide the preferred powder website by page?
I paid $15.00 for my powder PBTP.
EW
Sounds like you made out good. When I called Powder Buy The Pound, if I recall correctly about flat rate shipping, it was like $11.83, something like that. And they could get 5 or 6 pounds of the powder into a medium flat rate shipping box. Last Friday when I was helping my buddy powder coat this motorcycle trailer a customer brought in, he was dipping his powder out of this 5 pound box which would be just the right size for a medium flat rate shipping box.
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-oz-p...ack-93306.html
Go in and pick some up!
Using the HF powder (red and black ONLY. Yellow does not work....thin and splotchy and dissolves in acetone wipe test. Haven't tired white yet.) I get perfect non-smear/dissolve boolits everytime. Here are some examples of what I get:
Attachment 79250
Sorry the site turns the pix upside down! But they all turn out nice & smooth with electrostatic coating.
And you can smash 'em flat from noze to base and the coating does not flake off!
bangerjim
Im using one of the cradtsman pc guns that doesnt use a separate air source. I pc on a screen and it works very well. Easy to ger the bullets off.
But the bases are exposed lead?
How long does it take to set each bullet up? I can tumble 1000 bullets with 3 coats in about a 30 minutes. So how long does it take you to spray 1000?
Asking cuz I legitimately want to know cuz I could switch if it's fast enough. Not trying to start a fight.
War is peace.
Freedom is slavery.
Ignorance is strength.”
― George Orwell, 1984
The bases of standard lubed and tumbled lubed boolits are exposed lead too! Only high velocity rifle slugs and mabe magnums need gas checks. Having exposed lead on the bottom of sub-sonic and standard pistol boolits is no problem. Never has been. Leading happens from the SIDES of the boolits where the high lands of the grease grooves form the seals with the barrel & rifling. Or from undersizing and they "rattle around" going down the barrel.
I can spray a rack in about 2 minutes. If you have the system set up right, it ges on fast and there is very little waste.
I bake up to 150 (2 racks) at a time depending on caliber. Loading the sheets takes very little time once you get a system down.
AND............I only have to coat & bake (10 min) them ONCE.......not 3 or 4 times as with liquid stuff. They are perfect with no "lay" marks, globs, streaks, or thin spots.
And why do you need 1000 bullets at time anyway? I do not have that much time to shoot!!!!!! More power to you if you have that much spare time!!!!
bangerjim
Thanks KYShooter73, one of the reason I'm asking about this method is only cooking once, instead of twice. So it's really about the time it takes before that.
Bangerjim, exposed base is a problem for me with a compgun, always has been. So I guess this is a no start for me.
As far as 1000 bullets at time quickly, it would give you more time to shoot. I like casting a lot, I do NOT like lubing, coating, painting, whatever, so the less time I spend doing it, the better. I've got the Piglet method down so I don't get "lay" marks, globs, streaks, or thin spots. Do they "look" as good as spraying, no, do they perform as well, I'm sure they do, actually better in a compgun. I've gone back to Klass Kote, because I don't even have to bake, and they look better than tumbling PC.
Has anyone tried these in a bullet feeder die yet? I'm suddenly curious if this would break the lead bullet malfunction in the various designs of bullet feed dies. I have a Hornady .45 die but I need to cast up more .45 ACP boolits as I've been mainly casting .40 SW right now.
Using a screen on the wire rack instead of foil looks interesting but how many uses before the screen is too clogged up?
Waaaay back in the thread, someone mentioned dousing the screen in something flammable and burning the baked-on powdercoat off to rejuvenate your jig.
The screen is cheap. I just use it once then put a new one on
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |