LOTS of perrrr Deee bullets, but very few pictures of bullet holes;ie groups. Brings to mind a scene from The Dirty Dozen " some pretty looking solders Col. BUT CAN THEY FIGHT "
LOTS of perrrr Deee bullets, but very few pictures of bullet holes;ie groups. Brings to mind a scene from The Dirty Dozen " some pretty looking solders Col. BUT CAN THEY FIGHT "
IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"
Russel Nash, the shipping options change for the amount of powder, just like ordering from anywhere. It's price per package, not the number of things you buy.
There has to be a lot more than enough to coat 7200 rounds. I've coated about 1500, and haven't made a dent in the pound I have.
I rarely buy anything online, and never bought two or three of the same thing.
That's why I haven't ever gotten in on any of the mould group buys, I don't have pay pal set up.
I'll call powder buy the pound on Monday.
My buddy just texted me this link:
http://www.linetec.com/POWDERCOAT/Ty...wder_Coat.html
So I am educating myself on the different types of powder trying to figure out which ones would best dissolve in lacquer thinner or acetone for the piglet method.
has anyone had experience with the black PC from HF not sticking to the bullets? did a few hundred the other day and its flaking off on a lot of them
Woops, sorry. 20 yards. 9mm M&P pro.
War is peace.
Freedom is slavery.
Ignorance is strength.”
― George Orwell, 1984
Hmm... small minor disaster this weekend. My wife needed some screws (heads) powder coated to match a shelf she was putting up. In black. I ran to the local HF store, got some black. I decided that I might as well PC the wire rack of 50 (about 1/2 38 SPL and 1/2 9MM) boolits at the same time. The wire rack worked well.
But..
I use a $19 quartz element Wally World special toaster oven. Well... in Yellow PC running the thing at the full 450°F was no problem. In black.. well.. I figured turning it down to 375°F would make up for the extra "infrared heating".
It didn't.. most of the boolits melted before I could stop the process. I managed to save in time 10/50 (all 9mm). The 38 SPL apparently had a little more tin in the mix...
So this is why many would recommend a convection oven for the curing. The black PC actually took on enough extra heat to melt the boolits.. I'm guessing at least an extra 100-150°F. Like I said this is because the thermostat in the oven is measuring the wall temperature of the oven (which is silver colored). The Black PC made a big difference.
So in my cast I'm going to stick with white and/or Yellow (though I have all 4 HF colors now) and keep track of the curing better with the non-contact infrared thermometer. I figured I'd pass this on so you don't waste an hour recasting and repowder coating boolits.. possibly putting a rack or foil over and under the boolits would work as well...
The screw heads turned out great. My wife was very happy... hrrumph...
I cannot find the PC system that is mentioned from Amazon...
Please help
Ray
If you are talking about the craftsman gun from amazon its been discontinued and is overpriced everywhere else I've seen it.
Well, solder 60/40 melts at about 450°F from experience (I'm a EE and a ham radio op, so I use solder a lot). The 9mm is mostly range lead, the 38 spl I did out of pure WW's. The $19 toaster over is quartz type elements. Lets say I was quite surprised when the boolits melted. The string of profanity out of my mouth when it happen shocked my 12 year old who I was teaching how to powder coat with the HF machine.
I have a PID controlled hot plate for my casting pot. Very accurate for temp. I'll take one of the deformed boolits of each alloy and figure out their melting point when I have time again. I have to cast more 9mm anyway... I'm out... on the way up to casting temp I can do a boolit on a piece of aluminum foil. Probably be good to know anyway...
I didn't see it mentioned here but if your toaster oven is the cheap infrared type and you use dark colors.. well.. compensate for it. It probably doesn't matter as long as the powder hits 400-450°F for 10 minutes.. so even if the air temp is only 300°F in the oven, it only matters what the powder is...
Like I said.. the screws turned out great... sigh...
Shot 125rds yesterday at a USPSA match.
Glock 35 KKM
Lee 175 SWC
N320
I used the TGIC polyester powder.Light residue but that cleaned off real easy. No lube smoke and gun is waaaay cleaner. Gonna try epoxy primer powder next.
thats what I was afraid of, craftsman model is done,
I have a compressor but 30 was a better price than 60 at HF
I will have to get one soon,
where is the best place for media?
Thanks all
Ray
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |