Best way to remove buldges without ruining brass

[sirAIG]

Hey all,

Have some range pickups that have some typical buldges from unsupported chambers. Havent ever had many issues with .45acp. But these 40 brass thru my lyman sizer die are not going so smooth. It is actually removing some brass at the very base. Unsure how to solve this or if there is even a solution. Would like to save as much brass as possible. Tried using a little case lube to see if that would help with minimal results.

Thanks for any insight,
Aaron

[bigfelipe]

I have a Lee Bulge Buster Die I run all my 40 brass through before I size it. Takes the bulge out with very little effort and makes sizing a breeze after. It requires a factory crimp die in the size you use it for, but works in several calibers. Also, it's only $15...

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/882...s-and-w-45-acp

[sirAIG]

ahh i new i heard of something - that was it!! Will it thread into a lyman taper crimp die? Really dont want to buy another die... lol

[hornady]

Another option is the Redding G-RX die.

[mold maker]

At only $15. it's the cheapest way to really get rid of the problem.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You need the Lee Deluxe Factory Crimp Die to go with the Lee Bulge Buster kit. That die has a carbide sizing ring in the bottom that you shove the whole case thru and out the top. You remove the taper crimp ring and top cap from the die to do this. Your Lyman die can't do this.

Also you can't push a case completely thru a normal sizing die. It jsut won't go no matter how hard you try.

The BB kit has a pusher that goes into your press ram that pushes the case thru the die and out the top into a plastic bottle, which is also supplied.

This is only a case prep operation and you must run the debulged cases thru your normal sizing die when loading them.

This is the cheapest way to accomplish this task, and if you are going to load .40 S&W and shoot them from a Glock or other semi auto pistol it is kind of necessary.

Randy

[C.F.Plinker]

I have to think that the case wall gets thinned out where the bulge occurs. Does running it through the bulge buster "thicken" it up again or just move the rest of the brass around the thin spot leaving part of the case thinner than the rest of the case?

[W.R.Buchanan]

The bulge is not that expansive. it is noticable, but not huge, and as a result the brass doesn't get thinned out any significant amount.

Randy

[Nickle]

This hasn't ben an issue for me and my Glocks, nor my SIL's.

Basically, if they chamber (after sizing), the bulge is cosmetic, thus moot. If they don't chamber, then size the bulge down until they do.

If you ever want to see a cosmetic bulge, check out fired 308's.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The only thing to watchout for here with the .40 S&W is not to reload cases with several loadings to above mid range pressures. I ONLY reload .40 S&W to midrange velocities since there is no good reason to push them harder.

IF you de-bulge the cases you can get a few reloadings. If you don't and you are pushing the envelope cases can and will blow up.

The area in the bulge is weakened to some degree each time the case is fired. Squishing it back in place helps prolong case life, but the case life for this round is limited due to the pressures involved anyway .

My personal method is to load them to strictly midrange velocities and pressures. Reloading this round to top end velocities is just asking for trouble with no intelligent up side, since the paper targets, and tin cans you are going to shoot will never know the difference.

If you need high performance ammo for a carry gun , then I would suggest going down to the local gunstore and buying some factory loaded ammo.

Saying you need to practice with hot ammo is complete BS, since like I said above the targets won't know the diff. Anyone who thinks the extra recoil is going to make them a better shooter is a fool.

When you do need to shoot something that matters with your HP ammo, the likelyhood of you hitting the target with the first few shots is much greater if you have shot more with target loads since your grip and trigger control are going to be much more solid from the extra practice.

In the end there is little difference in the recoil in a .40 S&W anyway.

Now if you want to talk Full House .44 Magnums over .44 Specials then it becomes much more obvious that shooting 100 rounds in practice with the gun will be more beneficial than shooting 12 rounds and not being able to hold onto it any longer.

The relevance to the .40 S&W here is that the .40S&W runs at 35,000 psi in most factory loadings. So does the .44 Mag.

However the .44's are being shot for the most part in large revolvers that have total case support in their chambers, and .40S&W's are being shot in Pistols that can't have fully supported case heads due to the necessity of having a feed ramp.

I have .44 mag cases that I have been shooting for 20 years and they are still good. I have .40 S&W cases that have only survived 1 reloading. I usually lose them long before they become dangerous to reload anyway. Sometimes I just don't feel like picking them up.

I found this one at the range and it was a Factory Loaded round of early Federal manufature. Luckily this was not shot in my gun, but I'm sure whom ever did shoot it, knew it immediately. Pretty sure it was from Santa Barbara Police.

Don't ever reload .40 S&W cases headstamped "FC" !!! They were made around 1996 and are well know to have caused many blowups.

Randy

[Ed_Shot]

I use Lee Bulge Buster for 40 SW. I use only range pick-up and haven't had any issues with 9MM or .45 ACP glocked brass.

After de-priming and cleaning I check all my 40 SW with a chamber gauge. Those that fail the gauge I test in my barrel chamber. The few that won't "plunk" into the barrel chamber go in the trash. The other gauge failures get run through the Bulge Buster and I double check them with the gauge.

[Garyshome]

Well just got more case prep to get going on. Lucky it's only a few hundred cases.

[gwpercle]

If you go to the Lee web site, request a catalog and they will send you a nice catalog so you can see all the neat stuff . Makes for a good read.
Gary

[jmorris]

The best way is with a roll sizer, they will even iron out any blemishes that might be in the extractor grove.




I automated one of mine so you just fill up the case collator and turn it on.