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Thread: Drilling Boolits to make HP

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Drilling Boolits to make HP

    I have read lots of threads on how to make a HP mould and was all ready to do so. After lots of thought I figured I would get tired of messing with the pin.

    Getting to the point. Has anyone tried to drill a bullet to make it a HP? Any problems, any advice. I have a mill and plan to make a jig to allow me to change bullets and keep in the tolerances.

    Any ideas or advice will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I have done it with my .45ACP 200SWC
    I'm going to do some 230gr. RN
    I do them after they are loaded, place in a jig cavity and set mill to preset stop depth.
    Realize that when doing what ever bullet that it will lighter after drilling the HP (I.E. 230 will be about 210)
    This is just what I have done and it works for me.
    I do not recommend others do this with loaded ammo.
    Failure is not an Option

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    There are hollow pointing devices for this purpose.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/371...ow-pointer-1-8

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I've done a bunch on a lathe at work. Its not easy to drill and get a clean cut hole, lead is very sticky/gummy. BUT if you use A LOT of aluminum specific Tap Majic cutting fluid its make sthe job a lot easier.
    I used #2 and #3 center drills to a depth of .100-.150" deep IIRC.

  5. #5
    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
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    Center drill in the lathe works great. Used this method on my .310 Cadet 40-1 boolits.
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  6. #6
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    I use the forrester tool. Take it slow and clean out bit often or use a fluid on drill bit. The bit can really suck fast in that soft lead.
    nekshot
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Forster Case Trimmer with hollow pointer…

    I adapted an electric screwdriver to the trimmer…

    You have to clean the bit occasionally and it is a bit slow to get a nice center hole, but they seem to work O.K.

    Good-luck…BCB
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_0683#2.jpg   100_0688#2.jpg   100_0692#2.jpg  

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Another pic...

    BCB
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_0691#2.jpg  

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Hogdaddy's Avatar
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    How much trouble Vs buying a mold ??
    H/D

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    The best type of hollow point is the crammer style like Mihec uses and, the inset bar that Eric uses at hollow point moulds.

    http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

  11. #11
    In Remembrance


    DLCTEX's Avatar
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    I have done both and find using a hollow point mould with the pins much less hassel. Lead can be a pain to drill, requiring frequent clearing of the cuttings, which stick in the drill flutes and can be aggravating to remove. I can cast three or more HP boolits in the time it takes to drill one IME.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    I have and still do both. The hollow point mold is much faster and easier. The forster hollow point tool is easy it just takes a minute. It is also very accurate.

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    Looks like I just need to drill my mould and finish what I started. Yes I am too cheap to buy one.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    I have also used a center drill on a lathe. The center drill does not fill up with lead like a drill bit.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Also possible to swage a hollow point. I have tools to do it to .22 rimfire cartridges, and have used them..

    All those "gold dot" hollowpoints used in personal defense ammo are swaged.

    Me, I have only one HP mould, and never had good success with it. The pin does not stay centered very well, so I got unbalanced boolits with it. If I ever want a hollowpoint again, I will swage it. More time spent making tools, but it will make a nice concentric boolit.
    Cognitive Dissident

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I have a Forster tool, the 1/8" version for pistol (if memory serves)
    I have drilled many serviceable HPs, both with a hand drill and with a drill press. I also have a NOE HP mold which I love.
    Back to the Forster–the beauty of it is that you can HP virtually any boolit. Even if you eventually get an HP mold or two, you'll like having the Forster around. You could probably rig something similar with a resourceful mind and a few odds and ends–I wouldn't recommend drilling an HP without a guide of some kind for the bit.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master reloader28's Avatar
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    The nice thing about the Forster is you can make ANY boolit a hollow point without getting a new mold.
    Since I have zero need to be shooting HP's for plinking, I only HP a few with special alloy for certain jobs. Self defense, hunting or varminting.
    Its also very nice to be able to drill it exactly how deep you want it and test it out. If you need it shallower or deeper its an easy adjustment.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    I've found just drilling out the seating stem on a lyman die works great as a guide. Not suitable for a large number of rounds but is simple and cheap if you want a dozen or so for your next hunt.
    Drill them out once the bullet is seated while still in the press.
    one hundred and forty one could draw faster than he but Irving was searching for one forty three.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollingblock View Post
    I've found just drilling out the seating stem on a lyman die works great as a guide. Not suitable for a large number of rounds but is simple and cheap if you want a dozen or so for your next hunt.
    Drill them out once the bullet is seated while still in the press.
    Clever !
    Cognitive Dissident

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have a forster tool, I did make a few a few this way, but I have three MP HP molds now and will never screw around with the forster again. The Cramer Style molds cast nearly as fast as a conventional mold, you don't have fiddle with the pins--they stay in the mold and MP products are absolutely top tier. I find I get about 10 boolits a minute from my 4 cavity 432-640, versus 12 from my 429-421. I have a pair of RG-2 h Molds from NOE which, while a little more clunky than the Cramer types seem to be very nearly as fast. I just got my 452-200 yesterday
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check