Titan ReloadingSnyders JerkyWidenersInline Fabrication
Load DataLee PrecisionRotoMetals2Repackbox
MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 37 of 37

Thread: Ever had brass that looked like this?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Raven_Darkcloud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Banks, OR
    Posts
    105
    Um.. The UMC in the Remington UMC stands for used military case. They are factory reloads. I have gotten a case like that and after tumbling it was fine. I wash, dry, size/decap, and then tumble. That gets me clean primer pockets too. You can still see some evidence of the lines after tumble but the case is still good.
    Yes I can buy it, but great pride can be taken when I make it myself!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    high standard 40's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    1,216
    Quote Originally Posted by Raven_Darkcloud View Post
    Um.. The UMC in the Remington UMC stands for used military case. They are factory reloads. I have gotten a case like that and after tumbling it was fine. I wash, dry, size/decap, and then tumble. That gets me clean primer pockets too. You can still see some evidence of the lines after tumble but the case is still good.

    I hope this was an attempt at tounge in cheek humor. UMC stands for "Union Metallic Cartridge" .......not used military case

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    63
    So you ran a dirty case into your sizer die? Don't do that. Clean your die. Clean your brass. Reload clean brass.

    Please describe your entire reloading operation to us. I think you will benefit from our input.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,720
    You were told to clean the dies, but not how to do it. My method is to wrap 0000 steel wool around a dowel to get a snug fitment and then soak that "swab" with Ballistol. Use and in-out and back fort rotation to polish the inside of the die and especially the size ring. Inspect under bright light and with a magnifier lens, repeat as needed to get it totally clean.

    prs

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    63
    I use a brush soaked with solvent.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    685
    All good advice... I can't emphasize enough on keeping things clean throughout your loading process: Remember that "garbage in" gives you garbage out....
    I take all fired brass (whether stuff that I've fired, or gravel pit pickups) and agitate the brass with detergent and warm water.
    Then, I wash it off about three times to remove all the dirt and detergent.
    Next, I put the brass on a DEDICATED cookie sheet (only to be used for brass or bullets), and put in the oven at just about 225 degrees Fahrenheit (just above boiling). If you heat the brass too high, you'll soften it..
    Once the clean brass is also dry, it goes into my Dillon tumbler which is filled with corn cob. I also add a teaspoon to tablespoon of their rapid polish, and tumble.
    The brass comes out looking like new! It's also slick and offers minimal resistance to the reloading dies.
    The stuff I produce comes as close to factory as you can get.
    If you determine that you have a die that causes deep scratches, replace it.
    Keep your cleaned brass away from grit and dirt. I had an issue where a rock tumbler that uses silicon carbide was near the reloading station.
    One spill on the floor, and carbide went everywhere. I wound up carefully cleaning the area, and replacing at least one set of contaminated dies.
    My casings come straight from sealed bins or bags onto a clean tray, where they are then reloaded.
    If I drop any casings on the floor, they automatically are rejected and thrown into the next batch of shells to tumble.
    Again, you can't keep things clean enough!
    Best of Luck...

    -Tom

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master
    Shiloh's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Upper Midwest
    Posts
    6,770
    Chamber looks rough as a cob.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  8. #28
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    2,587
    That case is a valuable lesson in how cartridges and guns work (and sometimes don't work).

    The brass expands at peak pressure to fill, seal and grip the chamber, except where it doesn't- around the web. You can see that transition line clearly.

    In a short recoil type gun, the barrel/chamber moves backwards with the brass for a short distance, allowing the pressure to drop and the brass to relax a bit. Then the barrel unlocks and the extractor continues the brass's journey backwards.

    A clean, dry (as in not oiled) chamber is an asset to both good functioning and long brass life. A clean chamber allows the brass to both lock up with the chamber during high pressure, and unlock from it as pressure drops.

    Dirty chambers act as lubricated chambers, stressing the locking mechansim on the gun.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy 300winmag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    395
    Quote Originally Posted by Vindicated View Post
    Might be the extra image sharpening that made it look that way. Its a really fine scratch and this round hasn't been reloaded. Literally just fired once, cleaned with Dawn and hot water, then rolled lubed on a pad, and de-primed on my press. Although when I first seen it I thought that too. I had to run a few dummy rounds through my magazine to see where it was scratching.
    May I ask why you are lubing the brass if you are using carbide dies?
    As I was told when I was a child; your elders will make you smarter if you listen. Then when you are older your elders will teach you WISDOM.
    300winmag

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Southern Utah Desert
    Posts
    485
    Longitudinal scratches provide nice origination points for longitudinal cracks.

    Had a batch of .357 Mag stuff with maybe 1/3 that density of scratching and they started cracking on the 4th reload, about a third of them were gone after the 5th reload being fired.

    But for THIS loading, no problem.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master

    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8,286
    Quote Originally Posted by Vindicated View Post
    Thank you for the advice. I'll give them a good cleaning. I don't recall ever cleaning them when I got them.
    I always de-prime them if they are not new and not mine (range brass, stuff someone gave me, etc) in a lee universal de-primer, clean and then run through the sizer.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master

    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8,286
    Quote Originally Posted by 300winmag View Post
    May I ask why you are lubing the brass if you are using carbide dies?
    I usually use some one shot on them out of habit. Maybe every 4th or 5th one. If they have been used a bit I put them in a gallon zip-loc, give them a blast and roll em around before sizing and loading. Just make them easier although it is not needed.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,857
    Us your digital camera's macro mode. Clean chamber, change brand of ammo.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    429421Cowboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,161
    Quote Originally Posted by high standard 40 View Post
    I hope this was an attempt at tounge in cheek humor. UMC stands for "Union Metallic Cartridge" .......not used military case
    My thoughts as well...
    Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
    Why does a man with a 7mag never panic buy? Because a man with a 7mag has no need to panic!

    "If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,240
    Yep, good photo. If as you say, this is how the brass appears after firing and cleaning, I would say the gun's chamber is scratching the brass as it's extracting the case. FWIW; for about 12 years I cleaned my brass with a rag dampened in mineral spirits as I inspected it. Nope, my dies didn't wear out, didn't scratch my brass, and yep, I could see any defects as I inspected each case. Most dies available today are much harder than brass, and very difficult to "embed" grit, even steel. It does happen, but with the least common sense, it's very rare...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master

    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8,286
    Quote Originally Posted by high standard 40 View Post
    I hope this was an attempt at tounge in cheek humor. UMC stands for "Union Metallic Cartridge" .......not used military case
    I hope it wad tongue in cheek too

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    811
    I think its a resizing issue, not a chamber issue. The bad scratching stops about where the carbide ring stops and that zone is uniform around the case. If it was happening in the chamber, I'd expect the abrasion to go clear to the extractor groove.
    Jeff

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check