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Thread: Got my new Lee 20lber

  1. #1
    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
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    Got my new Lee 20lber

    The 20lber arrived yesterday and a fine example of quality it is. I fired it up last night and did some more casting with the 40-1 and .310 Cadet mould. In a wild fit of enthusiasm I decided to give the bottom pour thing a go again. Found I was faster with the ladle and it was physically easier. And of course the pot did a lil dripping. At the end of the session I emptied the pot, let it cool, took out the pouring mechanism and prompt wound a big self tapper into the pour hole. Ladles R Us is back.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Glad you are back in business. People gripe about Lee's quality, but for the money they can't be beat.

    Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Master pdawg_shooter's Avatar
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    I have 3 Lee 20# pots and none drip. I have plugged them all. I have decided if you have a Lee that is not dripping you best ad some lead cause you are out. I am a hard core ladle caster and at the price of Lee I can afford to keep 3 different alloys ready to go. If on quits, I will buy another Lee, plug it and keep on casting.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    My 10lb pots only leak when they are dirty. I've learned to keep them cleaner and I also keep a safety pin on hand to clear the spout if it does get some crud. The safety pin gets straightened out and I put a 90* bend in it for poking/digging out the spout. 25 years ago, I only had the 10 pounder for casting and smelting. My lead was generally range scrap from work so it would have some dirt in it. I ran the pot to half empty before I would top it off. By the time I finished lubing, sizing, and setting 100 rounds, the pot would be back at temp. A good fluxing and I would be off and running again.

    I found that dirt and crud clings to the valve rod and migrates down the rod to the spout. I guess as you lift the valve rod the crud just creeps down. I've found that scraping the crud from the valve rod and then the sides of the pot with a metal spoon helps keep the valve rod clean and reduces the crud migration.

    Dripping hasn't been a problem but I still keep a SS 'Sierra' cup under the spout when casting. It also catches dribbles. When the pot is heating up I have the cup index the spout and my ingot mold on top of the cup. If it does decide to drip it makes an ingot instead of a lead stalagmite.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    I put extra weight on my "handle" and mostly eliminated the drip. If it drips, I failed to let the "valve" seat - a quick jiggle and the drip stops.
    Ed

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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mine works fine and no drips, but it's fairly new. Will check to see if crud builds up on the rod.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Hey, thanks for the info. I never thought about the fact that dirt would migrate down the rod. Makes sense though. Mine does not drip unless it gets dirty. I can start out with a clean pot and cast a bunch, but a while later it will start to drip. I'll have to keep up with cleaning the rid and see if that's the ticket.

    I like ladle pouring as well. But my bottom pour holds more so that's what I use.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check