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Thread: Savage-Stevens pump 30-30?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master blixen's Avatar
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    Guidance appreciated

    I did get both screws out. They both have the same thread, but the remaining intact one seems to be a non-gun thread--because it has a allen socket head. Maybe the previous owner did the d/t himself and used a hardware screw thread size. That's ok by me.

    If screw IS a firearms thread size, I'll accept your gracious offer, Tazman, thank you.

    ATR, about that band around the barrel--what the heck is that all about? It must throw the barrel harmonics all to heck. Wouldn't be be better to take it off and free-float the barrel--maybe bed the action to make up for the loss of the front screw? IJS.

    BTW, the trigger pull is awful. Gritty creep into a heavy, less-than-crisp release. I need to get in there and polish and moly lube, if nothing else.

    Hope to shoot it tomorrow with 150gr spire-point J-words. (If I find that #%^&*! screw).

  2. #42
    Boolit Master



    Tazman1602's Avatar
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    Hey Bixen can you take a close up pic of that screw? If not, *most* ACE hardware stores or Tractor Supply have a good assortment of the oddball stuff. Find a nut that fits it RIGHT and go from there.

    Some gun screws are slots, others are allen heads, you just need to determine the thread pitch and number of threads per inch.

    Give me a shout if you need help with it dude.

    Art
    ”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
    ——Townsend Whelen


    In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
    —- George Orwell

  3. #43
    Boolit Master



    atr's Avatar
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    Bixen....
    on my 340 the barrel band is what attaches the front portion of the stock to the barrel. I have not tried free floating as the accuracy, as is, is sufficient out to 150 yds.
    I DID shim between the thrust block which is integral with the stock and the steel thrust face which is interal with the action. I used successive layers of thin brass sheets (which you can get at the hobby/hardward store). This gave me a very snug fit-up and a guaranteed transfer between the steel thrust face and the wood thrust block. In other words the recoil transferred as designed and NOT through the screws which attach the stock to the action.
    Hope this helps
    atr

  4. #44
    Boolit Master blixen's Avatar
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    Tazman-- a foto of the broken screw and the intact one. I'm going to swing by ace. If not, there is a tool/hobby/machinist shop--nearby-- that has even more screws.

    ATR--I get what you are saying about the shims and adequate accuracy. I'll do some shooting before I take on the forearm band. I have an 8mm Yugo with all the wood and barrel bands that shoots like a house on fire without any mods. Go figure.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master



    Tazman1602's Avatar
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    Blixen --

    The screw that was broken that you got out (GOOD for you!) appears to me to be a standard gun screw. Flat head and flat underneath also.

    The other screw looks like a standard allen head. What you *may* be running into is someone either stripped out or broke off this screw and then re-tapped it to a standard thread -- just be careful as you *may* need two different screws/threads for this now.

    Shoot I could be wrong and the guy who put in the allen screw may have more brains than I give him credit for.

    If you find out what thread/pitch and get it going again but then need the standard gun screws, if you'll send me the length/pitch etc I'll look through my screw kit and stick a couple in the mail to you............save you a ton on shipping if I do have them...........

    Art
    ”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
    ——Townsend Whelen


    In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
    —- George Orwell

  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    about that band around the barrel--what the heck is that all about? It must throw the barrel harmonics all to heck. Wouldn't be be better to take it off and free-float the barrel--maybe bed the action to make up for the loss of the front screw?
    In theory, the barrel band helps to damp the barrel vibrations. My .222 had a walnut Bishop stock, and whoever put it on the rifle did not put the barrel band back on. It shot okay without it.

    Look at it like this: If it groups okay, you don't have to mess with it; if the groups are to big, you have something else to play with.

    From what I remember, there isn't a lot of bedding and recoil lug surface on that action, so it may be best to leave the barrel band intact.

    I can't remember if the trigger gave me any problems on mine or not.

    Robert

  7. #47
    Boolit Master

    Fishman's Avatar
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    One other thing to watch out for. Make sure that the notch that was cut for the sight is wide enough so that the back of the sight doesn't bear on the wood. I was not so careful with my efforts for a scope base on my 340 years ago. It took many, many shots, mostly Lee 170 gr fp over 8.7 gr of Unique, but eventually a big ol' sliver of wood sheared off and went flying. It's glued back on, but I don't recommend the experience.
    "Is all this REALLY necessary?"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check