Wiping between shots

[MikeS]

Hi All.

My rolling block is finally here! So now, I'm curious, I have a cleaning kit that along with several bronze brushes also has some shotgun mops. I notice that the 410 mop fits down the bore of my 45-70 chambered rifle fairly nicely, it's not really tight enough to do any 'cleaning', but it's not really loose in it either, and so I was wondering if I moisten the mop with water, could I use that to wipe the bore between shots?

If not, how would I go about making a blow tube? I know I need to drill out the back of a case, but then what? Do I glue in the plastic tubing, or attach a fitting to the case that I can slip the tubing onto? If I can avoid using a blow tube it would be better, as I have lowered lung capacity due to my various ailments, so I'm concerned that I don't have enough wind to use a blow tube. Thanks!

[Saint]

Was at the range once and someone snuck up next to me with a 50bmg. Had to wipe between shots.

[Chicken Thief]

Full length cleaning rod.

After each shot:
Push through 1 moist patch
Push through 1 dry patch
Let them drop of at the muzzle

I use windshield wiper fluid (winter edition with alcohol in it)
Water for the slag/crud, soap for the grease and alcohol to aid vaporisation of the remaning water.

[drcook]

If you want to make a blow tube I use a hose connector. I chuck one end up in a drill (you can wrap a bunch of turns of tape around it as to not crimp the sharp edges if you want to, then file the other side so that it simply becomes a round tube. You could even trim it shorter on that side. You want to file it just a little smaller than the size drill you are going to run through primer pocket.

Then you will flux it and solder it to the case. Filing it to match the drilled hole makes soldering easier.

to drill the case easily

I take a piece of wood, drill a 1/2" hole near the end and slit it with a thin saw so that when I put the case through it, I can clamp it with a c-clamp to hold the case. a 45-70 case should measure .500'ish at the rim, which is a 1/2",

this way it won't spin on you when the drill breaks through. I usually use 2 different size drill bits.

once you go to Lowes or Home Despot or other DIY store and check out the clear tubing and the tube connectors, it will make sense what size you need

[montana_charlie]

Hi All.

My rolling block is finally here! So now, I'm curious, I have a cleaning kit that along with several bronze brushes also has some shotgun mops. I notice that the 410 mop fits down the bore of my 45-70 chambered rifle fairly nicely, it's not really tight enough to do any 'cleaning', but it's not really loose in it either, and so I was wondering if I moisten the mop with water, could I use that to wipe the bore between shots?

I assume you have started a "black powder thread", so I will participate.

Generally, those who "wipe between shots" are interested in removing most (or all) of the fouling left by the last shot. To that end, they will use a fairly snug jag/patch combination, or a nylon brush with a patch wrapped on it.
In either case, the fit is tight enough that the bore gets a pretty good scrub.

To get it clean enough to maintain accuracy, they will usually push two 'wet' patches through, followed by a dry patch. 'Wet' means 'most of the water already squeezed out at home', and the dry patch is more to leave the chamber dry that anything else.

Personally, I don't run that third (dry) patch through the bore. I use a short, flexible, pistol cleaning rod to just dry the chamber with paper towel material wrapped on a nylon brush.

Using cleaning accessories you already have around is fine ... if they fit.
But, having 'the correct tool for the job' is always preferrable.

CM

[drcook]

We all have an acquaintence that sells delrin rods on www.bpcr.net for a very reasonable price. they are drilled for attachments at the end. I have one of these for pushing patches through.

Delrin rods, being flexible help get around the tang sights most of us use. (other than scope shooters).

I am quite sure there are other folks, possibly on this site that also sell delrin rods at a good price point.


If you do push patches through (damp as mentioned) various cooking stores (especially the ones at the outlet malls) carry potato ricers for about 16.00. You use a potato ricer to squeeze the excess moisture out of the patch.

[Lead pot]

I make the blow tube using the brass that fits the chamber,
Drill out the primer pocket with a drill bit proper for the 1/8" pipe threads and tap the case for a 1/8 IP x 1/8" 1/8 x 1/4" hose barb for 1/8 or 1/4" plastic tubing. It wakes changing the tube easy because it does get a little gross in time.
But the good part nobody wants to use your B-tube

[drcook]

Kurt, using a threaded hose jag is a dang good idea. I never thought about that. That would even let you unthread the fitting and throw the shell in the tumbler along with the rest of the brass

Sometimes I have to pull the tubing off mine, clean the insides with vinegar and polish the outside as they do get sort of yucky looking.

[Don McDowell]

Blowtubes alreayd wonderfully covered, but the one MVA sells are just fantastic. The "case" is machined from aluminum and has a rubber sealing ring. The best part is as they are machined you can't crumple the case mouth when it sticks itself up and tries to crawl out of your line box about the time you drop the lid to close it...

Anyway with the wiping routine, you'll have to work on that and see what you, your rifle and the all can agree on that won't wreck what may have otherwise been a fanstastic load.
I like a nylon bore brush on the end of a delron , or Tipton(the large caliber heavy ones) carbon fiber rod to push the patches thru the bore.
Lots of solutions work, but I stole mine from Leadpot, and use a 50-50 mix of rv antifreeze and water.

[Lead pot]

And here I thought I lost it

[oldracer]

When I was starting out with this BP 45-70 stuff, Doug Knoell said he did the following: blow 4 to 5 breaths with a blow tube which I made like his from a used case. He also had a short extension to just go past the chamber so moisture would not puddle there. After a round, either 5 or 10 shots he would wipe with wet patches, usually several and then dry the bore. He said after 2 or 3 wet patches they generally were almost clean as are mine. If they stayed dirty then you were not blowing enough breaths.

I have noticed that the clear tubing needs cleaning often as it seems to want to grow "green stuff" in side..........

['74 sharps]

I've had great results running one wet (Ballistol + water) patch through and then moping the chamber. Tried blow tube first, did not get good results at all. Both my rifles seem to like a little oil from the patch in the bore.

[Hip's Ax]

I use my normal cleaning rod to wipe between shots, a Dewey for my 45-70 as it has a shotgun butt and the sight folds flat and a Delrin rod for my 45-90 has it has a high comb butt and the sight is in the way. I mix 10:1 Tru Sol water soluable machinists oil and water and use a small tupperware container to hold my premoistened patches and I have a 4 oz plastic squeeze bottle handy to re-wet the top patches if they start getting dry. One wet patch after each shot and drop it off after it exits the muzzle. Then I use a Pro Shot flexible chamber cleaning rod with a shotgun mop to dry the chamber. Works great for me.

[kokomokid]

If my bullet carried enough lube , I would blow tube. I use a delrin rod and plastic pistol brush to push an arsenal patch that is damp with 8-10% water soluble cutting oil. Get it too wet and you will lead the bbl.

[montana_charlie]

For a blow tube I use a length of surgical tubing that is a slip fit in the chamber. Nothing else, just the tubing.
Being rubbery, it seals against the end of the chamber so all of the air/moisture goes into the bore.

A sharp knife is the only tool required to fabricate one.

CM

[bigted]

your wiping can be as easy as can be...take a bottle of water and a stack of patch's to the range with you...stuff a patch into your yapper and chew it while getting the shot loaded and shot...now take this spit soaked mungy patch outta yer yapper and stuff it down the barrel and outta the muzzle after scrubbin it back n forth 2 or 3 times...[gotta do this the same every time]...now get another patch and after takin a swig of yer water and swallowing ,,stuff this new patch into yer yapper...now take a dry patch and run it up n down the barrel the same 2 or 3 times[ again do it the same every time]...now repeat the shot n swabbin with nothin but your spit to semi-clean that munged up barrel between every shot.

end of the shooting session take the ballistol and water mix and clean-up for real with 3 or 4 wet ones up n down several times to clean out the leftover residue[they must be good n tight] to remove all fouling from every nitch n cranny in the barrel. dry n oil for the ride home then do what you do when you do your final to put away till next time.

[waksupi]

Around here, shoots are run in relays. You have a given amount of time to get off from three to five shots. You need to have a load you can shoot well enough to get off those many shots,without having a fouling problem.
There is no time to be swabbing between shots, as you are dialing in the sight corrections as called by your spotter.
After your shots are fired, you are at your leisure to swab you bore as you see fit, and tend to your brass. Many just drop their brass directly into the cleaning solution as they remove them from the breech.

[.22-10-45]

Hello, MikeS. I finally got my original .40-70 Remington rolling block out for first time this year. Brooks Creedmoor 330gr. SPG lube, Swiss 1 1/2 FG. I was prepared to clean between shots if necesssary..but made up blow-tube from drilled out case & clear rubber tubing. I found 3 easy breaths kept fouling soft and maintained accuracy.
Now with another black powder rifle..an original Ballard No.3 in .25-25 Stevens. I tried blow-tubing without any luck..with this small bore, I use a coated Bore-Tech rod & run 1 barely damp patch thru after each shot & shoot thru damp bore.

[enfield]

I find 5 good breaths between each shot is very consistant with my old 12.7 rolling block (with obvious pitting in bore ). the lube I use is beez wax , lard & olive oil and after 20 to 30 rounds a wet patch down the bore and it looks like it did before the first shot. I had tried without a blow tube when I first started & could not get the rounds to stop stringing after the first shot ( what a difference it makes )

[bigted]

mikes...i can feel for you in the not enough breath dept. i see that there is plenty recipes for blowtubes but if ya aint got the wind they will do no good... try this one out;

take your lube and obtain a glass pie plate from "somewhere"...LOL...and gently melt some lube and pour it into the pie plate...use bolt nuts as a guide for your depth gauge...after you get around 1/4 inch deep or up to the top of your chosen nut depth allow the lube to set for long enough to completly harden back to its origanal state...mine take overnite...now take something to gouge out a small circle in the middle of the cookie lube in the pieplate. build a "cutter" out of a case...[ i use a 444 marlin for my 45-70 loads as the cookies slip rite in without getting air trapped under em]...drilled out in the primer pocket so a "pusher" to push out the cookie as you cut em loose from the cake in the pieplate. [ i find that a 44 cal boolit in the 444 case will help push the 'cookie' out straight without harming it]...now push the 444 case into the cake and slip it over to the circle already cut outta the center and lift it out...push the boolit and cookie out with your pusher that is thru the drilled primerhole and walla...you have a lube cookie.

now cut some wax paper wads to place over the powder to protect it from the lube cookie.

load your powder charge and place the wax paper over the top and compress as needed...place your cut cookie into the case on top of the powder/waxpaper...take a .030 or .060 inch vegi wad over the cookie and thumb press the wad n boolit onto the cookie so as to squeeze the air outta the column. i use my full length size die to semi crimp this boolit so it will not fall outta the case if upsidedown.

now you have a lube cookie in a loaded cartridge and it will act like an additional lube to mix with the fouling to keep it soft...i have loaded these and shot 35 without losing my hunting accuracy and also have slipped a dry patch thru the bore after every 5 to maintain great accuracy. this method will keep yer lung capacity in tact and help with your fun factor for shooting without being uncomfortable with the blowtube.