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Thread: Ballisti-cast Mark VI observation and comments

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    or just fill the tube with lube if and when you full the piston off. I know too simple

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by finishman2000 View Post
    or just fill the tube with lube if and when you full the piston off. I know too simple
    The complaint is about getting air between the lube and the lube piston so filling it isn't going to take away the problem. The problem exists with both the Star/Magma and the MarkVI because of the tight seal needed in the cylinder.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 07-28-2012 at 05:58 PM.

  3. #23
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    sure it does. if the there is no air there will be no air pocket between the two. fill the tube till just enough room for the piston as you thread it back on.

  4. #24
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    If I remember correctly you were the one that complained about removing the air cylinder and the problem in the first place in post number 7. I mentioned that I liked the O-ring in my post #6 and you commented on my post.

    I tried topping off the cylinder with more lube on my first go around and it didn't solve the problem for me.

    There is a possible reason and that is there could be a difference in the depth of the O-ring cut in the piston allowing one machine to have a tighter or looser fit than another machine. Looser fit means a faster air leak down. Mine is so tight a fit you have to fight it to even start it in the cylinder let alone try to get the air out. What has worked on your machine doesn't work on mine so it cannot be considered as the magic cure all. If it works for you then use it by all means.

    I increased the air pressure on my cylinder to obtain a 100% lube groove fill and then turned it back down 50 or so bullets later when the lube started getting on the nose of the bullet. This is what worked on my machine.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 07-18-2012 at 06:33 AM.

  5. #25
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    I'll look into this when I'm making the next batch and try a few different things to see if we can't fix that. If I find something that works I'll post an update on here and our website.

  6. #26
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    I still don't understand how the flapper works. With the standard Star system the piston doesn't have any pressure on the top side, it is on the end of a rod and the pressure is in the air cylinder, not in the sizer body. And if the air can leak by so can the lube, as I picture it.

  7. #27
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    After I thought about it myself it makes no sense. The is no air pressure above it unless the air cylinder was leaking in which case there would be no pressure on the lube also.

  8. #28
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    Thinking about the ball plunger positioner again. Several shots for suggested locations. Picture on the right..why couldn't you simply remove the screw and attach a small aluminum piece that would serve to hold the ball plunger? Then all that would be needed is to remove the bullet wheel and replace it with the upgraded version II and possibly send the original back for re-machining. The picture on the left shows yet another location the side of the base housing that possibly could be drilled and fitted with the ball plunger assembly. Just an idea for what its worth.

    Just wondering if the 45acp bullet feed wheel assembly wil work for the 38/357 cal bullets or does it and the feed tube and bullet wheel replaced to do the 38/357's?
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 07-22-2012 at 07:28 AM.

  9. #29
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    For those that haven't set up their machines yet just plan on twice as much time as you told the wife for playing with the sizer. Its addictive the more you size the less you want to quit. It took a few minutes of running it to realize that its just as fast as the Star and you have to coordinate your movements. Once you get the hang of it you move right along and then your out of bullets again.

    Now I need a Master caster or something that will provide a means of efficient bullet making.

  10. #30
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    Yet another comment... when I first unboxed the Mark VI I looked at the area where the bullet is loaded into the bullet wheel and how the nose of the bullet touches the machined base on its way to the sizing die and found myself saying well that area where the bullet drags across the finish isn't going to hold up very long.

    Well, its not your standard painted finish but a Powder coated finish and there is absolutely no wear on the area that I was questioning. No marks nothing looks like I just took it out of the box.

    I now realize why I was wanting a different color and the reason is that most machinery comes in gray, blue, or green for a paint color and the powder coated finish is the same color as say a green punch press would be.

  11. #31
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    6BG; Going by my experience with my Stars the 45 wheel MIGHT work with 357 bullets but it will depend on their shape, some will drop and some others will cock sideways and get stuck. I use my 45 feeding tubes for most of my 38 bullets. The longer ones work better, if too short they cock sideways.

  12. #32
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    So I either purchase a different wheel or make some inserts to go inside the holes in the 45 bullet wheel that I have. Maybe making a drop tube with a reducer in it would take care of the problem of bullet hang ups. When I get some 38's made I will give it a try.

  13. #33
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    i have made my own adapters so i can use my own drop tubes, 3/8x1/2 for 38's and 9mm's, and 1/2 x 3/4 for 45's. i find that the space between the dropped head and the next one in line in the tube makes a huge difference in the smoothness of operation. i think knerling the wheel will be my next improvement.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by finishman2000 View Post
    i have made my own adapters so i can use my own drop tubes, 3/8x1/2 for 38's and 9mm's, and 1/2 x 3/4 for 45's. i find that the space between the dropped head and the next one in line in the tube makes a huge difference in the smoothness of operation. i think knerling the wheel will be my next improvement.
    I'm working on automatic bullet wheel rotation to see if it can be done and work efficiently. Thanks for the info on the drop tubes.

  15. #35
    Banner Sponsor ballisti-cast's Avatar
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    I've put a great deal of thought into the automatic bullet wheel along with the guy that's rebuilding my CNC mill and neither of us could come up with something that wouldn't look very scabbed together. If you guys can come up with something relatively simple and efficient and show me a video I'd trade you the design for either an M-A Systems collator or the new one we're working on.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballisti-cast View Post
    I've put a great deal of thought into the automatic bullet wheel along with the guy that's rebuilding my CNC mill and neither of us could come up with something that wouldn't look very scabbed together. If you guys can come up with something relatively simple and efficient and show me a video I'd trade you the design for either an M-A Systems collator or the new one we're working on.
    I might like to take that challenge.
    You have CAD files for the complete unit?

  17. #37
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    I have several ideas. The simplest and a rather different approach other than the wheel assembly I will try to describe in the following post #38. While similar in manor to another type of delivery system I believe it is do able because its delivery method is air activated instead of mechanical activated. I do not believe there would be any patent infringements if a patent actually applies to this delivery system. One method of construction would be a poly material instead of 6061T6 Aluminum that is both easily to machine and will also provide years of operation without failure. So one difference would be air activation with microswitch control. 2) Type of material being used if needed. 3) If needed color of material. 4) a turret feeder assembly with optional bullet feeder collator support.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 08-01-2012 at 07:37 AM.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballisti-cast View Post
    I've put a great deal of thought into the automatic bullet wheel along with the guy that's rebuilding my CNC mill and neither of us could come up with something that wouldn't look very scabbed together. If you guys can come up with something relatively simple and efficient and show me a video I'd trade you the design for either an M-A Systems collator or the new one we're working on.
    I have several ideas... one I will mention right now. Simply raise the die with a spacer for a .125 thick plate or drop in a modified bottom die that is raised .125 that will allow for a simple base plate for the feeder assembly. The feeder assembly would consist of a simple multi tube magazine and a simple bullet feeder bar assembly. All of this would be controlled by a low voltage control system running a pneumatic valve and a piston with a 1" throw. System operation would be raise the handle to a preset value and the bullet is moved into the die and the cylinder retracts the feed bar. No ugly tedious top punch adjustments because the top punch does not hold any part of the feed assembly. No mechanical arms or linkages to contend with. System operation is controlled by means of micro switch control. Everything could fit on the right side of the machine. Air is readily available and close.

  19. #39
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    That's an idea that hadn't crossed my mind yet, but can definitely be made to work. I was stuck on trying to work into the linkage arms that were already there. I don't have the time available to develop the idea for at least a few months, but if you want to undertake it I can help here and there and machine up a part or two for you if there's one you can't do yourself.

  20. #40
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    If you get a chance can you email or PM me about this?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check