Lee bullet molds are like disposable tools, you are supposed to break them, toss them & buy new. Yes, there is a reason they are so cheap. You really have to baby a Lee mold IMO/IME.
Lee bullet molds are like disposable tools, you are supposed to break them, toss them & buy new. Yes, there is a reason they are so cheap. You really have to baby a Lee mold IMO/IME.
Hmmmmm fred.
I broke 1 and Lee had a new one to me in 3 days.
I usaully cast at least 2 6 cavities at a time,if it feels like the sprues are too hard,I take my sprue stick and smack the sprue plate a couple time and that will usually shear it enough that I can pull the handle and finish them off.
Also make sure the spru plate is closed all the way before you pour.
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Some badmouth Lee, some because they didn't get a free part (like we expect from Dillon or RCBS), some because they don't like the product and Lee won't change it to their liking.
I've found Lee customer service to be every bit as nice as any reloading manufacturer, and I've found that I catch more flies with honey than vinegar, especially with the ladies (who often know a shocking amount of reloading and casting stuff). Yes, you sometimes have to pay for a part, but the part prices are always very, very reasonable. Not going in like a snotty know-it-all, and being prepared to listen, goes a long way to getting the best service- at Lee or anywhere else.
Yes, these are the same folks I returned two 45 230-2R-TL molds before I got a good one, but I explained the problems clearly and without venom and got the next one back in less than 2 weeks without argument. No, I should have never had to return them in the first place. But I feel I did my part to help their quality control, keep Americans employed, and now I have a 6-banger mold that produces huge piles nice boolits at such stunning speed I have trouble keeping my 20 pounder full.
If I had just thrown it in the trash, Lee's workers would have never been paid to make 2 more, Mr. Lee would not have learned anything about his true reject rate, and I'd be paying more than twice as much for another mold. It took patience but it was worth it.
Having said all that, I love my MiHec brass mold even more, I paid more for it, but like the Lee it's worth more than what I paid for it.
HF
Quick update....I broke the handle on Tuesday afternoon. Called Lee first thing Wednesday morning. Received the new sprue handle today. I got it installed and cast 400+ boolits this afternoon. I'm still going to order a KAL handle, but for now, I'm back in business!
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If you try and cut a cold sprue on a lee 6 shooter, you will break the handle. You have to pre-heat the mold and cut the sprue as soon as it solidifies. It's not necessarily a bad thing, I got a used like new 357 158 wc 6 cavity lee mold for the price of shipping from somebody who said it was a junk mold and I could have. I took the handle off of another 6 cavity lee and proceeded to cast lots of good bullets from that mold.
Another option is to flip the mold around in the handles so that where the sprue handle used to be is facing out. Tap the protruding end of the sprue plate with a mallet to cut the sprue.
Yes, I'd much rather have a 6 cavity ballisticast mold than a 6 cavity lee mold, but $40 vs $250, the ballisticast doesn't produce a bullet that is 6 1/4 times more accurate.
I have a couple of Lee six bangers from the first year they started making them. Each has made a darned big pile of boolets over the years. The wood sprue handles are cracked and wired together on both, but they still have their original sprue plates.
As others have said, I preheat before casting. Since the OP was working with a hot mold it might simply be a case of bad luck. No product has a 0% failure rate.
As for the quality of the Lee molds: they are the only $40 six cavity molds on the market. If Lee weren't producing them I think it's reasonable to say nobody else would be. The closest comparison I can think of is the NOE 5 cavity for close to $100...and good luck getting the exact one you want within a week's shipping time.
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Quit trying to cast with two moulds when using a Lee six-banger. It takes about all a person can do to keep as six-banger hot enough to cast with without fiddling with two moulds. If you feel any significant resistance when cutting the sprue, you're letting the sprue plate and sprues get too cold, and you WILL break the handle. When I cut sprues on a properly heated six-cavity they shear like cutting through a raw potato with a sharp knife.
Gear
G'day All,
I have 8 lee 6 cav molds.
I too have broken a sprue lever when the mold/lead not at correct temp.
if i feel a little too much resistance when trying to open the mold, I will place flat sided screwdriver blade between the sprue plate lever and the side of the mold block, the little extra leverage I get will allow the mold to open without breaking the lever.
Just have to be patient and wait a little longer to get everything up to heat.
Cheers
If your sprue overrun gets up in cam area of the lee sprue handle then you will have alot bigger chance of breaking off your handle. I would bet that I am not the only one that has ever seen that.
I'm pretty sure they make those parts from sintered iron. Then the possibility of breaks increases due that process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering
Dutch
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-Yogi Berra.
I haven't broken one yet. I only pour into one or two cavities until I am sure the mold is fully up to heat. I also don't wait to cut the sprue once it hardens.
Been using some of these moulds for x5 or 6 years.
I've broken two of them when I first started casting. My new method of heating up the mold is this. I fill only two cavities at a time. I go up and down the mold like this for two passes. I then fill three at at time twice as well. Tens of thousands of cast later, not one broken. If, the sprue plate "feels" like its going to break, I grab a torch and heat the mold with that. If I have to scrap the boolits, so be it.
If enough pressure is applied, it'll go
That is exactly the right bring to do guide goose. I heat the mould by setting it on the melt for 30 to 45 seconds. Gets the mould pretty darn warm. Then cast just 2 cavities and see how it goes.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |